New Engine Noise post-Oil Cooler Install

spearfish25 · 07-22-2010, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sig11

I just put my cooler on this morning and wasn't able to hear anything. Maybe the rubber buffered brackets that Setrab/Z1 put in their kits stops the vibration? Or maybe my ears are too wrecked from loud music and farm work to pick it up. :P

We'll see...I'm installing the Setrab on Sunday.

JB1 did a little research. Turns out the rubber dampers are used to reduce vibration in the cooler which could cause cavitation bubbles. Apparently he has a knowledgable source who has seen an STI engine blow from a rigidly mounted cooler and vibration causing bubble formation.

Modshack · 07-22-2010, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

JB1 did a little research. Turns out the rubber dampers are used to reduce vibration in the cooler which could cause cavitation bubbles. Apparently he has a knowledgable source who has seen an STI engine blow from a rigidly mounted cooler and vibration causing bubble formation.

Jeeze....Do you guys believe everything you read on the internet?? That is impossible. I can guarantee that shaking oil does not cause bubbles. This is not a carbonated beverage. "Knowledgeable" source my a$$. Unbelievable...

cossie1600 · 07-22-2010, 09:00 PM

I didnt use any rubber gaskets mounting my cooler, no noise

SoCal 370Z · 07-22-2010, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

Jeeze....Do you guys believe everything you read on the internet?? That is impossible. I can guarantee that shaking oil does not cause bubbles. This is not a carbonated beverage. "Knowledgeable" source my a$$. Unbelievable...

I just buy the carbonated version of Nissan's voodoo enigne oil to begin with...my engine feels so tingly and belches a lot.

autopc25 · 07-23-2010, 09:16 AM

Have you tried a engine stethoscope to locate the source of the noise?
Good luck!

spearfish25 · 07-23-2010, 03:26 PM

Modshack has been particularly grumpy lately.

I'll stethoscope the engine when I'm swapping coolers on Sunday.

spearfish25 · 07-25-2010, 07:31 PM

The Setrab has been installed and the Tru-Cool retired. The whirring sound that was very audible is now history. Not sure what to attribute that to, but the sound is gone with the Tru-Coo removed.

Very impressed with the Setrab too. Build quality is excellent, the fittings are a breeze to install, and the cooling ability is superb. 80F ambient temps and triple digit speeds (on a closed course) had temps staying at 195F (200F sandwich thermostat). The only time temps go over 200 is sitting in traffic and they max out at 210 with aggressive stop-start street driving. I have a true track day coming in a week or two and I'm excited to see where the temps go.

Well worth the troubles to get this thing installed.

Valentino · 07-25-2010, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

The Setrab has been installed and the Tru-Cool retired. The whirring sound that was very audible is now history. Not sure what to attribute that to, but the sound is gone with the Tru-Coo removed.

What is Tru-Cool? what did you do to get rid of the sound? you replaced the oil cooler or the PS cooler?

Can you explain more plz.

Thanks.

m4a1mustang · 07-25-2010, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Valentino

What is Tru-Cool? what did you do to get rid of the sound? you replaced the oil cooler or the PS cooler?

Can you explain more plz.

Thanks.

Tru-Cool is a brand of economy racing oil coolers. He replaced his Tru-Cool unit with a Setrab.

spearfish25 · 07-25-2010, 09:09 PM

^Yep.

The noise is described in the first posts I made in this thread. I later found I had two problems, one potentially my fault and one not. First, there was a leak from one of the fittings on the Tru-Cool. I'm mechanically inclined and have an engineering degree, yet I found the NPT fittings in the Tru-Cool to be needlessly tedious to install and left more possibility for leaks (NPT fittings have non-sealing threads, so you need thread sealant was well). The NPTs don't screw in far, are difficult to align in the desired direction without f'ing up the threads and the sealant I used didn't seal well. The leak may have been an error on my part during installation of the fitting, or the Permatex thread sealant was past its shelf-life (per Permatex).

The second problem was a leak from one of the AN fittings that screwed onto the sandwich plate. After further investigation, the hose company I used to fab custom hoses installed a bad stainless steel fitting on one hose. It won't screw all the way down and leaves about 4 threads exposed while the other three have about 1-2 threads exposed after tightening. I've changed out the Earls adapter the hose screws onto, yet the problem persists. It looks like a bad tap on the on the SS hose fitting. So, I'm working on solving that problem when the hose place opens tomorrow.

The short of it is that the whirring noise started after I installed the Tru-Cool. I've since removed the Tru-Cool and installed a Setrab 25 row (600 series) in its place. The slight leak at the AN fitting hasn't been dealt with yet. Irregardless, the whirring sound is gone and my car sounds like it did before the oil cooler saga began. I suppose one could argue that the sound was either from the Tru-Cool or from the leak at the Tru-Cool fitting, but I don't have any good explanation how a slow leak would cause that sound.

Please, this isn't a call for rebuttals about how Tru-Cools are good coolers. It certainly cooled the oil, but the design and ease of installation of the cooler doesn't equal that of the Setrab. If you're looking for the budget option, try the Tru-Cool. I did and wished I just got the Setrab from the start.

cossie1600 · 07-25-2010, 10:12 PM

From the pictures, it looks like the Setrab are much higher in quality (Of course I have to sell my soul for it)

spearfish25 · 07-25-2010, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600

From the pictures, it looks like the Setrab are much higher in quality (Of course I have to sell my soul for it)

Night and day quality difference. That being said, if I didn't have a fitting leak I might still be using the Tru-Cool. But the leak was enough to motivate me to swap it out.

nabenson · 05-24-2011, 01:14 PM

Did you end up re-routing anything? Or isolating anything from the frame/body?

The whine from mine is pretty loud and I'm trying to get a better idea of what it could be so I can get the shop to fix it the first time I bring it back in.

(Nismo kit w/setrab and swapped out Mocal plate)

Coyote676 · 06-19-2011, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nabenson

Did you end up re-routing anything? Or isolating anything from the frame/body?

The whine from mine is pretty loud and I'm trying to get a better idea of what it could be so I can get the shop to fix it the first time I bring it back in.

(Nismo kit w/setrab and swapped out Mocal plate)

Just installed my cooler yesterday and I too am having the whine noise issue, exact same setup as you too. (Nismo with a 34row and the Mocal plate).

I would love to hear if you find anything out as to how to get rid of the whirring.

nabenson · 06-20-2011, 11:10 AM

My shop (Autoscope in Dallas) mostly fixed it. I had them look at it again since the noise was at its worst when the car was fully warm. They ended up going over all of the hoses and insulating it from the body/frame with foam insulation and something else (maybe felt? I can't recall now).

Now, the whine is there when the car hits 180 on the gauge, but it's very distant and mostly quiet. You would mistake it for a slight gear whine and passengers don't notice at all.

07-23-2010, 03:26 PM	#51 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	Modshack has been particularly grumpy lately. I'll stethoscope the engine when I'm swapping coolers on Sunday. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z Last edited by spearfish25; 07-23-2010 at 03:28 PM.

07-25-2010, 07:31 PM	#52 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	The Setrab has been installed and the Tru-Cool retired. The whirring sound that was very audible is now history. Not sure what to attribute that to, but the sound is gone with the Tru-Coo removed. Very impressed with the Setrab too. Build quality is excellent, the fittings are a breeze to install, and the cooling ability is superb. 80F ambient temps and triple digit speeds (on a closed course) had temps staying at 195F (200F sandwich thermostat). The only time temps go over 200 is sitting in traffic and they max out at 210 with aggressive stop-start street driving. I have a true track day coming in a week or two and I'm excited to see where the temps go. Well worth the troubles to get this thing installed. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

07-25-2010, 09:09 PM	#55 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	^Yep. The noise is described in the first posts I made in this thread. I later found I had two problems, one potentially my fault and one not. First, there was a leak from one of the fittings on the Tru-Cool. I'm mechanically inclined and have an engineering degree, yet I found the NPT fittings in the Tru-Cool to be needlessly tedious to install and left more possibility for leaks (NPT fittings have non-sealing threads, so you need thread sealant was well). The NPTs don't screw in far, are difficult to align in the desired direction without f'ing up the threads and the sealant I used didn't seal well. The leak may have been an error on my part during installation of the fitting, or the Permatex thread sealant was past its shelf-life (per Permatex). The second problem was a leak from one of the AN fittings that screwed onto the sandwich plate. After further investigation, the hose company I used to fab custom hoses installed a bad stainless steel fitting on one hose. It won't screw all the way down and leaves about 4 threads exposed while the other three have about 1-2 threads exposed after tightening. I've changed out the Earls adapter the hose screws onto, yet the problem persists. It looks like a bad tap on the on the SS hose fitting. So, I'm working on solving that problem when the hose place opens tomorrow. The short of it is that the whirring noise started after I installed the Tru-Cool. I've since removed the Tru-Cool and installed a Setrab 25 row (600 series) in its place. The slight leak at the AN fitting hasn't been dealt with yet. Irregardless, the whirring sound is gone and my car sounds like it did before the oil cooler saga began. I suppose one could argue that the sound was either from the Tru-Cool or from the leak at the Tru-Cool fitting, but I don't have any good explanation how a slow leak would cause that sound. Please, this isn't a call for rebuttals about how Tru-Cools are good coolers. It certainly cooled the oil, but the design and ease of installation of the cooler doesn't equal that of the Setrab. If you're looking for the budget option, try the Tru-Cool. I did and wished I just got the Setrab from the start. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z Last edited by spearfish25; 07-25-2010 at 09:14 PM.

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07-22-2010, 09:00 PM	#48 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 30	I didnt use any rubber gaskets mounting my cooler, no noise

07-23-2010, 09:16 AM	#50 (permalink)
autopc25 Base Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: 60610 Posts: 66 Drives: 2008 C6 Rep Power: 15	Have you tried a engine stethoscope to locate the source of the noise? Good luck!

07-25-2010, 10:12 PM	#56 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 30	From the pictures, it looks like the Setrab are much higher in quality (Of course I have to sell my soul for it)

05-24-2011, 01:14 PM	#58 (permalink)
nabenson Base Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 103 Drives: 10 370z Nismo PW M6 Rep Power: 15	Did you end up re-routing anything? Or isolating anything from the frame/body? The whine from mine is pretty loud and I'm trying to get a better idea of what it could be so I can get the shop to fix it the first time I bring it back in. (Nismo kit w/setrab and swapped out Mocal plate)

06-20-2011, 11:10 AM	#60 (permalink)
nabenson Base Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 103 Drives: 10 370z Nismo PW M6 Rep Power: 15	My shop (Autoscope in Dallas) mostly fixed it. I had them look at it again since the noise was at its worst when the car was fully warm. They ended up going over all of the hoses and insulating it from the body/frame with foam insulation and something else (maybe felt? I can't recall now). Now, the whine is there when the car hits 180 on the gauge, but it's very distant and mostly quiet. You would mistake it for a slight gear whine and passengers don't notice at all.