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can someone please explain what is this NA and FI that everyone is talking about?
Thanks in advance, -Koffeegy |
FI means Forced Induction, which means adding a Supercharger or Turbocharger setup to compress the intake air. Generally a pretty expensive mod.
NA means Naturally Aspirated, which is the opposite. The engine is just drawing intake air with its own suction, like our stock 370Zs do. |
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Thanks WSTAR -Koffeegy |
i honestly think with a little more compression full bolt-ons and i mean FULL, and a tune you can get really close :). this is the route ive been going right now, but i will be going e85 aswell.
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uhmm nitrous!
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That's cheating :)
Seriously though, it could be done with an aggressive tune (including VVEL...), and that re-worked bottom end GTM was talking about. |
Not to the wheels.
Maybe 330 - 340 whp (on a dynojet) with EVERYTHING (including pulleys and LTH) with VVEL tuning. On that note, by my reckoning, 332ish on a dynojet is around 400 crank. |
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any idea what the A.M. performance grand-am car is running? different upper block of course but NA
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Maybe with a very generous correction factor and cold weather... I honestly can't see how anyone could get better than 315 - 325 to the tire on a dynojet with every possible bolt on and a tune and STD correction, and a nice cool day... But, I'm open to being proven wrong... |
no
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no... just no
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I really don't see what's wrong with the 315-330 that some people get tbh... the Z is also fairly easy to lose weight with... a low 12 second car with the available NA mods and some 4.08 gears .... what's wrong with that? Lose a little extra weight and maybe a very high 11 second car possibly? Who knows with the right driver.
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Still, no harm in trying. If it can be done, please share the details on the work you've done to get there :tiphat: On that note, I'd wait until summer time is over. The heat and humidity right now is absolutely crushing and you will dyno lower no matter what correction factor you use. |
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i was reading the owners manual the other day, i was pretty sure the displacement is near 3.8 already. Its like 3.783 or something. I could be wrong... |
Jnuts got 319 on a mustang dyno I think it should be around 340 in a dyno jet
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Bore and stroke = 95.5 x 86.0 If it was 3.78 they would have rounded to 3.8. |
QX56 engine. ;)
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Yeah honestly if I ever get to the point that the NA VQ37 isn't enough for me, I think I'd rather do an LSx conversion than FI or another Nissan engine. But I know the kind of hack that is, I'd only do it if/when my car became a full-time race car, not for a regular everyday car.
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All I know is, down the road, I think I'd consider throwing an LSX into my car. |
Well, mostly what I mean is it's not for a daily driver IMHO. Aside from all the mechanical hackery around fitting an appropriate drivetrain layout into the car, you'd have to toss Nissan's ECU for a GM one, so there goes pretty much all of the Nissan's electronics, which everything in the car is tightly integrated with. That means all the little creature comforts will need some custom wiring or hacking or whatever too just to get them working again: electronic door locks, power windows, interior and exterior lighting, etc... don't even ask me what happens with the gauge cluster and the info display, but I'd assume there's no sane way to get the stock ones working with an LSx ECU.
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Ahhh, I gotcha - yeah I know, thats one big factor that'd hold me back too. Even though I like racing, I DO like to keep my little creature comforts.
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Put the 4.08 gears in your diff, it will feel like 400 rwhp
Z |
^ still waiting to see how it works out with you and the GTM Stage 2, I know I shouldn't fear the gear but increasing the ratio plus F.I might make the m6 undriveable, we'll see how it goes with your 7AT. That and waiting for the techies to figure out VVEL.
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It’s already been done
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12 year old thread!
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