Ah, so many opinions here to last a lifetime. Go turbo Go! N/A 2 slow...just thought I would put that in just because it kind of ryhmes.:ughdance:

Ditch the 370Z and get the 380RS-C. :driving:

VQ38HR with 395 HP and 310 lb-ft torque, and it uses Motec engine management. $250k... not street legal, of course.

Details details...

You know how we have the '08 NISMO Z with the nice suspension upgrades and funky body kit? In Japan, it's the 380RS. It is everything out NISMO Z is, but there's a 3.8L HR engine in it pushing 350 PS. There is a competition version that is gutted out with a race built version of the 3.8L HR tuned and controlled with Motec gear.

Google... and drool. :excited:

Um it's called the 380RS but it still has the 3.5L VQ35HR. Says so in the first video on google and also on the Nissan spec sheet.

I haven't read all five pages but Cosworth has developed a 400 horsepower N/A motor...It can be had for around 30K. Not trying to be sarcastic or anything. It can be done and some people work very hard to stick N/A and be the most power N/A...But it's not cheap.

Below is a link to some photos of the 380RS-C Race Engine:
Nissan Nismo 380RS-Comptetition picture by acokane - Photobucket

Below is a link to some photos of the VQ38HR in the 380RS:
Nissan 350Z Nismo Type 380RS : News & Reports : Motoring : Web Wombat

I did acknowledge that there are some well designed out of the box kits out there, go back and read. The thread asks about getting 400 without a turbo, hence your post is completely irrelevant to the thread. Your opinion might not be wrong, its just in the wrong place.

Some of us folks are just sharing experiences and adding some personal insight and experience. I did not blast anyone. Whats the point of buying a turbo kit and running low boost? To make 60hp? Whoopee!! You said "if" done right. The problem is that it is extremely hard to get 100% right the first time around. I have been around many many builds and maybe one in ten start and idle the first time the motor turns over. And these are builds done by people who compete in timeattack events all over the country and build 500whp cars all day long. The average joe is at a big disadvantage. Unless, like I already said, they go and drop off the car and a wad of cash at the local shop and come back to get it 2 weeks later.

Also honestly, unless you are going to track the car with race tires on...big power becomes completely useless on the street.

Chill out. Getting worked up over something like this is immature and completely pointless. Learn to respect others opinion without getting upset and start an unnecessary argument. There is always more than one way to deal with the situation, the first one you think up is the emotional one, often not the best choice... If you dont want it to turn into my350 then don't turn it into my350.

I really cant wait to start seeing what people are getting out of this engine NA... Its going to be so fun finding the right setup.

$14K gets you an LS7... So for half the loot, you can drop in a 505HP 500Lbs/Tq motor. :D Much cheaper and still extremely reliable.

If you're going to go N/A and spend that much money, might as well do a motor swap.

Agreed...However then you're talking about a new transmission and driveline that will work with the LS setup. So you'r back up to over 20 by the time everything's installed and operating. At least in my mind...I could be wrong. I think you're right about doing a motor swap though. There are conversion kits out now for the Titan motor fitting into the Z's. I'd bet you could easily achieve over 400 HP N/A and fit within a 15K budget.

LSx swap is always a good option. :)

LS7 is the only stock motor I have ever seen blow...

Really? You should check out some RX-7's . Not to mention you can blow anything if you drive it stupidly enough.

Bobo, come on. I am not focusing on 370z's, or anything like that. I just simply said that people of all walks of life in all kinds of vehicles do stupid things. I don't street race, btw. The main reason why I want to step out of my SRT-4 is because I don't want to be looked at in that manner. :( Unfortunately, people that drive SRT-4's, etc have a bad reputation because well.... most of the drivers are young and dumb. :ughdance:

I agree about your comment about the message boards. I am poor at determining if someone is being offensive at times, so I apologize about that. I am just sick of seeing people whine about things all the time and that counts for both sides of the enthusiast fence in this discussion. Then again, what is life without a little debate every now and then?????? :roflpuke2:[

Look, I don't need advice. I appreciate your concern, but maybe this online discussion thing isn't for me because people have a tendency of misunderstanding one another. Additionally, I don't appreciate the fact that you're calling me "immature." You don't know how I operate on a daily basis, so don't fly off of the handle and label people when you see a post that is a bit on the passionate side.

Anyway, the soldier that fabricated this thread just wanted to know if NA was a feasible option and I provided him with my opinion. You thereafter posted yours, which seemed to target my opinion, and I countered it because I wanted to let you know that boosting is cheaper than going N/A. Simple enough, huh? I'm sorry if I offended you or pissed you off.

Don't forget that I also stated that a well tuned boosted car can last longer than most people own their cars. By today's standards, that means 3-5 years. There are OEM cars that are boosted that last 10+ years that require periodic maintenance with the turbocharger. Again, it is all in how the vehicle is tuned. Oh and it is also all in how it is cared for.

Finally, a car running 6psi on a large displacement motor can make plenty of power. Sometimes more than 60hp. :tup: Also, the money that it would take to get to the soldier's target hp naturally aspirated would cost more than it would to turbocharge it. You know, it's all in what he wants to do in the end, right? As long as he surrounds himself with the right people and dedicates himself to learning how to boost, build N/A, or whatever, he can minimize the chances of his car going kaput.

And by the way, are you saying that making big power is 400whp and is not good for a streetable setup? Please elaborate!


P.s. NA for the 370 will definitely be a change from the 350.

almost time for a kitten pic so everyone thinks happ tho0ughts. OH hell here is one anyway.

http://itfunnylife.files.wordpress.c...tten-img_2.jpg

I want to thank all you guys..
 

For all the information and great feedback. Keep the info coming, this thread is going to help alot of people out, current owners as well as future ones. Actually this may prompt people to buy, with all the mods coming out.:tup:

Meh. It's a pretty much maxed out N/A motor, but makes a good twin turbo motor.

I don't know if I would consider a high compression V8 a good canidate for turbo. The one I watched go was rev'd to the limit and the valve train essentially disentegrated. Who cares if it's hand build if it just spins itself apart. That being said GM handled it well and as far as I know the car is still going strong on motor #2. Also, if I had the money I would have a hard time choosing between Godzilla and a Z06. The Z06 is just so much fun to drive.

Lingenfelter has done some pretty amazing things with turbo's on the Corvette V8's. Ford GT owner's are pumping out 1,400 horsepower with stock internals out of their 5.4 liter V8's with twin turbo kits.

ALOT of the sandrails and dune buggies I've seen run twin turbo LS or Northstar V8 motors. Twin turbo V8's are an absolute blast!!!

I think for the most part you're right about non-built V8's and twin turbo kits not being a good match but if everything is built right then they can be a lot of fun.

FWIW, there's a reason the new LS9 isn't the 7.0L, but the 6.2L heh. They found that under boost, the LS7's sleeves didnt take it quite as well as the LS3's did. So, rather than run lower boost without much room to expand in the LS7, they decided to go with a REALLY strong forged 6.2L LS3 setup boosted to high heaven. People will swap the pulleys on those and make north of 700 HP in no time, it'll be a joke. Thats not to say that other LSX 427's cant handle it though :). Here's my buddy from Omaha's current project: http://www.neufamily.org/images/67novagallery/. Some people who read Hot Rod magazine will recognize him as the guy who had the big single (eventually becoming a TT) Blue Silverado that won the first Drag Week, and then won again the next year in a different class.

As for the LS7 being weak...the stock valvetrain in the LSX series has usually been hailed as one of their strongest points, so I'm a little surprised - its always possible that particular one was flawed...as you said, the 2nd's holding strong right? But the other guy's right - look at anything powered by a Wankle - Apex seals what? May as well become an ASE certified mechanic before you buy an RX-7/8 heh...

And Ninja - no offense taken, my other message board thrives off of its Gloves-off section. I probably went a little overboard anyway. Maybe I just learned fast that street racing is really overrated, I don't know heh. High horsepower cars were really cool to me at one point...now, I see them as purposeless unless they can actually put the power down to the ground with a reason...

Yeah. Leno did a twin turbo LS7 in a grand torino a while ago. It made 1200hp. I have a few friends that have done the same thing.

I knew that they went to a 6.2 because it was stronger for the LS9, but the problem is that they can't get that motor to hold it's boost (is what I'm hearing). But if you're willing to spend 21K on a motor, then the LS9 is the way to go.

rotories are awsome engines. people just dont know how to take care of them.
they do amazing in racing.

That still doesn't make up for the fact that they are gas-sucking, torque-less wonders.

I have a friend back in Omaha who has a single-turbo in his FD. Nice car. Think it puts down a little north of 400 to the wheels. Still blows apex seals all the time. And I KNOW he takes good care of it...

BTW, the racing rotaries (3-rotors, yes?) are CONSIDERABLY better than the ones you find in production cars I believe...

Click the link. ~350whp.

Final Dyno Numbers - MY350Z.COM Forums

If they can make ~350whp (mustang dyno, low reading) on an Intake, header and full exhaust and a COBB AP tune on a vq37vhr(the motor in the 370Z/G37)...I think it's possible to hit ~400 with some nitrous...

That's funny. The link is even posted on this site...Yet everyone in this thread missed it. Wonderful, lol.

http://www.the370z.com/vq37vhr/657-w...pect-370z.html

Whats funny is that we aren't talking a nitrous-ed setup, here. We're talking N/A 400 WHP...

Apparently, you missed that :)

He said without turbo or supercharger in the original post and in the title, that's why I quoted it...So why not nitrous? Those boltons and a tune = ~350whp. Add a 100shot and he's met his goal.

Either way it seems possible with a MILD build. Full boltons with some cams and valvetrain might be able to put him at or near the 400 mark.

I don't know why some of you think he'd need a forged block or something if they made ~90 whp above stock on Intake, header, exhaust, and tune...

I think it goes without saying, the sky is practically the limit when you add giggle juice, so why even bother mentioning it?

Cams isn't going to happen in this car - only on the exhaust side. The only way to get the valves to open up more would be either a LOT of money into the intake VVEL system, or simply tuning the valves to be open more and more often. Its going to be VERY complicated either way, and a tuners nightmare at first Im sure.

http://www.370z.com/Portals/0/Magazi..._structure.jpg

And problem is, he wont be making more than 90WHP to hit 400 WHP than stock...on a dynojet dyno (generally recognized as the most inaccurate...), they're putting down what, about 280ish to the wheels stock? He'll need 120WHP more. That translates to approx 140+ CRANK horsepower more. You think full boltons will do that? Because when an LSX based motor - something with a LOT more displacement and room to grow - can pick up 140 crank horsepower from boltons, well, god damn. It all slows down very fast after the "big" boltons, IE headers-back exhaust.

AH! So that's how the VVEL works! I was wondering how they were doing it. Makes sense to use an screw-style actuator setup. They're very reliable so long as the motor doesn't burn out.

I'm 100% positive that someone will come up with a baseline configuration for tuning the VVEL and tuners can just use that as a starting point.

Talk to the HONDATA guys...or, maybe the guys forced to use it :). According to my friend, i-VTEC is KINDA similar, and only the HONDATA guys have figured it out lol. So you pay out of your *** for the tuning solution :(

^^^ That will change fast as snot. LS2's were cracked in about 3 weeks followed by a billion other tuners shortly after.

Yeah, but their premise was very similar to that of the LS1. Not very hard to figure out at all. And besides, its push rod power here - very simple.

This motor is considerably more difficult to tune with, assuming you're tuning for anything OTHER than WOT more than likely.

Yeah. I know what you mean.

I won't say it's impossible but it's highly unlikely. The vq37vhr is putting out almost 90 horsepower per liter stock. LS motors don't come anywhere near that from the factory therefore they have more room to easily add horsepower. This is the biggest limiting factor in modifying the 370z for n/a. The vq35 is hard to even get to 300rwhp with full boltons and cams. The vq37hr has a definite advantage with vvel but no one knows yet what it's capable of I'm very optomistic about it. I don't know yet but I think 340rwhp is the limit with full boltons and a tune. High compression pistons won't give too much of a return considering your starting at 11-1 compression ratio and you will need race gas and engine longevity will be drastically cut. The heads already flow extremely well so a port and polish will help but results won't be drastic. If your shooting for 400rwhp n/a it's going to be very expensive and your engine won't last the life of the vehicle. I know you want to go n/a but FI is the better way to go. Many 350z's have been running for several years with superchargers and turbochargers putting down 400rwhp on the stock block. And the vq37vhr has been torn down and inspected by several shops and it has a proven stronger bottom end so I think it might even last the life of the vehicle at 400rwhp on the stock block. The cosworth engine is a bad benchmark to go by that's a race engine that would cost a lot to reproduce. Just so you know I'm a member over at my 350z so I have some background in the vq motors.

Great feedback
 

The more information I see, the more I think that 400 is unattainable without going turbo or using a supercharger.

So what is attainable with just bolt-on's??
 

I'm thinking mid-range numbers like 330 to 350 now.. Am I off base. I'm shooting for just bolt-on's.

I havent read the whole thread, but based on recent findings, I think 400NAHP is a dream on this car. I think we should aim for 300-320 at best.

Agreed. (That is until someone figures out how to tune the VVEL 100%)