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Old 06-24-2010, 05:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
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nothing burnt here and my bitch gets thrashed
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Old 06-24-2010, 05:37 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ImportConvert View Post
Sorry, I can see this is a sore thumb here and it brings out the OMGZ! MY OIL! mentality. My apologies. I was just offering some advice to those who have the issue and looking for a pulse on it.
Don't worry...There are a few girlymen here who will beat this into another 80 page thread if we let them. All you need to know is here if you have the patience to read it: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...mp-issues.html
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Don't worry...There are a few girlymen here who will beat this into another 80 page thread if we let them. All you need to know is here if you have the patience to read it: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...mp-issues.html


Oil temperature is always going to be warmer than coolant temperature under hard operation. Many people see 230-260* in "spirited/racing" conditions, and up to 290 or so isn't out of the norm in hot ambient conditions.

Of COURSE the car is less-peppy with the oil at around 260*. The engine is quite obviously heat-soaked. Why wouldn't you expect to lose 10whp or so with the thing heatsoaked?

I will FULLY admit to have not read that full thread, however, please clue me in: Are they any engine failures traced to lubricant over-heating with the 370Z?
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:49 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'm much more interested these days in people's results with vented hoods or upgraded radiator fans. Just having the A/C compressor fan running drops my engine temps by 15F. I think a vented hood and an accessory radiator fan would work wonders for our cars' oil and overall engine temps.
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:58 AM   #20 (permalink)
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A radiator fan instead of an oil cooler? It's like going to war with knives. Plus, water temp is controlled by thermostat, it is not going to dramatically change anything.
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:52 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I will FULLY admit to have not read that full thread, however, please clue me in: Are they any engine failures traced to lubricant over-heating with the 370Z?
NO
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:52 PM   #22 (permalink)
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ummm....so what's the issue?
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Old 06-28-2010, 12:01 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Not really common
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nothing burnt here and my bitch gets thrashed
x4 . I'm at 21,000 miles and no oil burning. Switched to synthetic at about 4000 miles.

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ummm....so what's the issue?
There is NO issue. If you do long track driving (HPDE, road course etc), you'll need an oil cooler. If you do autox or 1/4 miles, you don't need any oil cooler. For regular driving, you DO NOT need an oil cooler. There's no engine failure due to lubricant overheating because car has a built in protection system that protects the engine by limiting RPM (limp mode).
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Old 08-15-2010, 09:39 AM   #24 (permalink)
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What about removing the bottom engine cover and cheap plastic ground effect to let the air come across the bottom of the engine? The engine cover and ground effect are probably not necessary below 120 mph, right?
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Old 08-15-2010, 09:47 AM   #25 (permalink)
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What about removing the bottom engine cover and cheap plastic ground effect to let the air come across the bottom of the engine? The engine cover and ground effect are probably not necessary below 120 mph, right?
You could very well hurt cooling by removing the tray. Often times those trays serve dual purposes... they keep debris out of the engine bay and they help create a pressure zone within the engine compartment that will pull in more air than it would without the tray.

But more air to the sump isn't going to do anything. If you are concerned about oil temperatures, get an oil cooler. It's a simple solution and it works.
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:58 PM   #26 (permalink)
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For street driving, removing the tray didn't do much honestly
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:57 PM   #27 (permalink)
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You could very well hurt cooling by removing the tray. Often times those trays serve dual purposes... they keep debris out of the engine bay and they help create a pressure zone within the engine compartment that will pull in more air than it would without the tray.

But more air to the sump isn't going to do anything. If you are concerned about oil temperatures, get an oil cooler. It's a simple solution and it works.
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Old 08-16-2010, 08:37 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info on what not to do - removing the engine tray or shroud.

I would install an oil cooler if it would not void Nissan's warranty, for which all the posts seem to point to as a consequence. While I don't track the car, 20 minutes of "fun" driving in high humidity and ambient temperatures above 75F drive the oil temperature up to 250F. Other forums I have read when searching on "high oil temps" seem to indicate that temperatures below 300F are acceptable when using a higher end oil such as Red Line, so I will continue to use that oil in lieu of an oil cooler.

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