Retrofit the sport package?
 

I checked the part numbers and diagrams for the sport package brakes, calipers, and LSD. According to the Courtesy Nissan website all the parts are available for purchase. The brake rotors and calipers run about 1500 +odds and ends like hardware and pads. The Diff. is priced around 700 + or - any additional parts necessary. I have an e-mail in to the parts dept. asking for a firm quote, if it is possible, and what other parts I would need.

Also, for general knowledge, sport pack wheels come out to about 3,250 if purchased independently. I should have bought the car this way ugh.

Any comments or insights are welcome.

If you can wait, unused wheels may start appearing secondhand, as people buy new, bigger rims.

Yeah. I'm not going to sweat the rims too much. I would of liked them if I had bought the car that way, but if I'm going to spend money after the fact I'm getting Volks. There are already two sets of 18's up on e-bay. If I had the sport pack rims I would wrap them in a DOT race tire and keep them for a track setup.

I did the same thing...BUT almost everything that the sport package comes with it. You can get better parts in the aftermarket.

L.S.D.
Kaaz <--they are working on a direct replacement
Cusco

Suspension
To many to list

Wheels
To many to list

Rev matching tranny
Learn to do it yourself!

Homelink
List price to add it is $260

So the base model (for me) was a better choice.

I got an e-mail today with a price quote for the LSD a brake upgrade. As far as the brakes go you will not find a 4-wheel brake upgrade for less. 1764.04 for all four rotors, calipers, pads and hardware. Even if you subbed in aftermarket rotors it would still be a steal. The LSD is 1772.86 much less of a bargain. I'll hold out for an aftermarket LSD.

Sidebar: The sport package has different lower control arms than the base/touring. Courtesy said it has stiffer bushings.

^^^ Do you believe a dealership when they say something like "It has stiffer bushings"? I don't. I would believe the different control arms, but I'm still doubting that.

$700 for OEM LSD?! No thanks. I'd rather go aftermarket.

^ $1770

I think this is the best way to go..
 

Purchasing items after the sale, and it could be either Nissan or after-market items is the way to go. I've seen some good deals by the parts departments at various Nissan dealers. However, more items will be coming out to match these different upgrades/packages being offered. Also, why finance these items into the cost of the car? Lastly, if your a do-it-yourselfer all the better.

I would be willing to bet that some of the best looking and equipped 370Zs will come from the base model done to the owner's taste. They'll end up being better than fully optioned factory models. :tup:

^ I agree 100%, if you're going to build.... start with base.

The other issue that we're facing in Canada,
is ever stiffening laws about modding.
Insurance issues as well.

So....
In my case I'm more likely to go with the sport pkg.

Yeah, starting with base if you are going to go all out may be the best way. I still think the stock Akebono brakes are going to be the most cost effective method of getting a very trackable brake setup.

However, I am not going all out. I want to make some subtle improvements. Just enough to make the car my own and learn her inside and out.

1770 for viscous LSD is NOT worth it. I would rather wait for the OS Giken unit. Should be better and cheaper.

For an all round diff, Quaiffe is a good way to go.
I put one on my 04 G35 & loved it.

I have a similar outlook, but went a completely different way. I want a great street car, so I went with a Touring manual w/ Sport. For me, it was comparatively cheap way to get a lot of performance I want without having to replace anything.

I love the rev-match feature even though I used to be a manual snob. I realized quickly that the rev-match does allow you to concentrate more on driving, even if heel-toe is second nature. It took a few miles for me to stop reaching for the gas pedal to blip the throttle, but I see the light and am very happy that I have this feature. Downshifts are very smooth and never upset the car, allowing you to get on the gas a little quicker than normal. I love the leather/suede interior, upgraded stereo and the aluminum pedals are nice. It's a street car and the added weight is worth the comfort for me. If this isn't the case for you, I suggest the base w/ sport package at a minimum.

The 370Z has a great chassis, and great brakes. I think most would agree that the part that needs to be addressed the most as a street car is the power. A lightly modified street car will likely simply start as a Sport equiped car with intake/exhaust and maybe a light flywheel. You don't really need to touch the brakes unless you 1. didn't get a sport pack (which I'm suggesting against here) or 2. measure you cars performance by the number of aftermarket parts on it (which is dumb).

Those that track their car may want to upgrade their brake and clutch lines and grab an oil cooler/diff cooler, but won't really need to touch much more than that besides super sticky tires and put the car on a diet.

Of course the over the top cars that will be stripped down and built up will obviously not be using the good-enough-for-most parts as they measure their performance in tenths of seconds and every advantage counts. In other words, all out race cars.

I guess to sum up, get the sports pack unless you aren't an enthusiast (why are you here?) or are building a track monster.

I agree for the most part. If I hadn't bought the car already I would deff. go for the sport package. But, alas, I bought the car early on and had to take what the dealer had. As for man vs auto. I bought an auto because it was what was available. Now, after driving the auto, it would really be a tough decision to choose between the two trans.

Well, since you got the auto, you aren't missing anything really except brakes, wheels/tires, differential and aero. This is what I'd suggest for those suffering from non-sport pack buyer's remorse

• Watch the classifieds or post a want to buy (WTB) for the brakes or try and pick up some shop's spares. I wouldn't suggest buying high mileage rotors, but it's the calipers you are really after. Besides, you won't really find many high mileage cars yet (2,400 miles and counting here).
• You'll likely go to 19x10f/19x11r wheel and tire setup anyhow, so you didn't loose out on the Rays wheels in the long run. They will make sweet backups or street wheels for those wanting to run ultra soft rubber on the track. If you want a cheap set of lightweights and don't need to run ridiculously wide tires, then you may want to watch the classifieds for these as well.
• Pick up a Quaife LSD as they are the best money can buy in my experience. I wish that manufacturers would use these mechanical type over the clutch/viscous types. Dodge actually did use Quaife differentials for the 2005 SRT-4's (last and only year).
• As for the Syncro-Rev and those that bought a non-sport manual, it's a really nice piece of tech and one that I think is worth having. Likely you'll need a sensor (but maybe not), the switch and a wiring harness (again, maybe not). I'm not sure as to whether the software is there, or if it runs piggyback. Worth looking into. I'm actually curious as to whether there is anything actually present in the Sport cars since the car can control everything already...
• Aero is an easy one. The chin spoiler should be really cheap. I'm sure some company or another will offer a knock-off of the Nissan design for the rear spoiler and you don't need someone else telling you that going with aftermarket parts is always an option.