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Your talking about this pipe correct?
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#4 (permalink) | |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 483
Drives: 2010 370z 40th 6MT
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Ran into this, might be of help? Idk worth taking a look at, read the description ![]() https://www.stillen.com/performance/...ssan-370z.html "These grounding kits will also improve the shifting on automatic transmission vehicles, and in most cases noticeably improve shift times and reduce lag." Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#5 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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That's not it, it's a known issue with some. Even on 6MT. It might be related to intake temps. When I start having this problem I have to launch at 3000 RPMs to avoid this issue, very frustrating!
__________________
2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV ![]() |
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#6 (permalink) | |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 483
Drives: 2010 370z 40th 6MT
Rep Power: 61 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Oh then in that case, a tubbing will help you millions with this issue but yeah I agree. The temp makes the car lag. I just simply suggest a good venting body kit i.e. Fenders bumper and hood haha. Blast your heater with the windows down ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#7 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 116
Drives: 09 PW 7AT 370z
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Gents, it is 33-38 degC plus humid all year long here in Malaysia, i've been having this trottle delay since my 1st day ownership. Have anyone tried use another IAT sensor which has the same resistance curve as OEM and relocate it to the mouth of the intake? It is embarrassingly slow to take off in any low gear when the rpm is around 1-3k, above that it scream all the way to redline. In a heavy traffic jam, IAT is always about 40-50 degC above cabin ambient temp reading, i logged all this with OBD2 and Nissan Datascan III app since the car is JDM. No issue with brake switch as i can see the value for both sensor switched. Idle timing was awfully low at about 3 compared to 9 when cold start. The only thing i've been wanting to check is the knock register and MAP sensor barometer volt value but theres no parameter of it in the Android app i have, no codes either. Maybe that was caused of the timing retard, had checked flexplate and theres no crack. Also have tried removing the MAP sensor driving with CEL codes and it didnt improve or making it worst. Happen on either full tank of fuel or low. Only good temporary solution that work only for short period of time ~15 mins is refuelling when near empty ~ 40 litre. Nissan tech had even datalog with consult III while me driving and cant find anything wrong.
Intake were all stock with addition of 36 row Z1 oil cooler and 25 row AT cooler to the sides. I really hopes we as a community get to solve this teething heatsoak issue. Car had 125000 KM already since i daily drive it to work since 2010. My next fault finding would be to replace MAP sensor and see if it is faulty. Envy you guys in colder climate country. |
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#8 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 428
Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6
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ZeN,
Please refer to my earlier posts. I detailed exactly what you propose on doing. I have done it before and it works, and later on after a lot of research i went several steps further to restore a more consistent driving experience. In short, the 370Z really suffers from heatsoaked intake air temperature sensor. All intake systems are affected. All your observations mirror mine so there is nothing 'wrong' with your car. It is doing everything as it is programmed to do. There is a solution but it's not for those who love to show off their engine bays - although it's definitely a conversation starter. Goodluck & happy modding! |
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#9 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 48
Drives: Nissan 370Z
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HI,
I have the same issues when it gets hot outside, my 370z turns into a Nissan Sentra.....Bogged down lethargic acceleration and laggy throttle response from idle up to about 3500RPM. Did anyone come up with an ECU fix for this? |
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#10 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Is there anyway that an UPREV tune can address this throttle response when IAT temps are higher?
__________________
2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV ![]() |
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#12 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 428
Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6
Rep Power: 139 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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You cant do anything tuning-wise to reduce the impact of heatsoak. The only solution is to address the heatsoak problem - insulate, reflect and relocate. Heatsoak is inevitable. You goal is to delay its onset.
After so many years since i left the platform i am amazed Nissan has not done anything to fix the problem. But you guys as owners need to determine whether there is truly a bug in the ECU software or whether it is simply lag due to pulled timing due to high IAT (actual or false due to heatsoak). For me, in the end it seemed most like a bug in the throttle map or the way the ECU processes input from the gas pedal to output to the twin throttle bodies. It is a complicated system with VVEL, two throttle bodies, and having to manage brake booster vacuum also. The best way to describe what is happening is the ECU thinks there is a problem with the throttle control so to prevent uncontrolled acceleration, it puts the motor into limp mode without illuminating the CEL. Acceleration up to 3500rpm will be extremely poor and scary when pulling out of junctions. Just like limp mode. Restart the motor and it clears. Leaves no trace. Those of you with Uprev, i strongly suggest loading a new throttle map and test it out. I wished i still had my Z to continue this witch hunt for you guys but good on you all for sticking to what is an awesome bang for buck car. These days i drive an E82 135i which longs to handle like a Z haha |
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#13 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Not sure if I’m on to something or not, but I was having issues with a P0300 code for a long time and finally got that resolved by cleaning my MAF’s. Haven’t had any gas pedal issues since.
__________________
2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV ![]() |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Australia
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Drives: 2012 370z Sport
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Wow. This thread was a damn good read. All the way from the 1st page. Only reason I'm here is because of that dreaded gas pedal delay and laggy throttle response. Heat soak and IAT sounds like a logical cause. The reason I'm sure is because throttle response during warm up from cold start is nice and crisp as many have stated already. But once that oil temps warm up you can definitely feel a decline in throttle response at low rev ranges below 3k vs what your input is with the gas pedal.
That one video that showed the behaviour of the revs with quick slamming of the pedal vs gradual smooth input is really telling. That rev hanging under acceleration is also interesting which is exactly what I experience when the engine is hot either from DD'ing or a little spirited driving with the gas pedal delay. I'm hoping someone here can explain this phenomenon with the VQ37. One thing that hasn't been touched much over the 50+ pages of this thread is if running lean or excessively lean, or a hidden vacuum leak would cause poor throttle response due to the ECU retarding the timing for VVEL to protect further engine damage. I know watching the behaviours of short trim fuels is a good way to tell if you're running too lean or too rich. But basically the current solution is: 1. Get a tune with improved throttle maps 2. Isolate heatsoak 3. Somehow retrofit more fans to improve cooling (no idea if anyone has done this) 4. Install and keep throttle controllers (sprintbooster) for the added placebo effect Unless some tuners have found the golden ticket to finally eliminating this problem. I would really like to know. Many Z owners would benefit from this. After reading this monster of a thread my conclusion would be to just get a tune and install sprintbooster incase it is needed for really hot ambient temp days. And see how it goes from there. Might look into some heat soak solutions later on too. It's a shame the VQ37VHR doesn't have better heat management systems. Otherwise this v6 would be amazing. Last edited by ZPWR; 12-19-2021 at 05:34 AM. |
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