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I've never stalled the car because of it that I can remember, but I have had situations where I go to near-WOT at a light and get beat by a
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#1 (permalink) |
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I've never stalled the car because of it that I can remember, but I have had situations where I go to near-WOT at a light and get beat by a Prius.
A while back I had my dad roll with me in our beater Buick LeSabre. We went from a 5 mph roll and he pulled nearly 3-4 cars on me before the car finally responded and reeled him in. ![]()
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i know the solution, just never slow down!
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Considering the newer detailed comments, I don't think I ever experience anything like that in my 7AT. (Of course, my oil never hits 220 as far as I've seen, so my engine doesn't get too hot for some reason.)
The only lag I've had is when turning a 90 degree turn from a stop.
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am almost 100% positive that this is a VVEL issue. Once the tuner or adjuster comes out i think this problem will be resolved. Its definatly not throttle position mapping, i think its a combo of VVEL, timming retardation, imho
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But why does it happen so inconsistently? That is what stumps me. Some cars do it, some don't, and even the ones that do it don't seem to consistently do it.
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and again I have to reiterate... this doesn't seem to be happening to any of the NISMO models. I may wait to see what happens with your pre-turbo inspection, DIGI, before I move on trading mine in.
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One of the techs at Baker Nissan is looking into this issue especially since I'm worried about this issue creeping up with the turbos installed. He also has the link to this thread and my video. He says he never heard of anyone having this sort of issue. He says these engines run hot, which is not a surprise. As usual, he suggested an oil cooler, and I told him it didn't resolve it either for some owners.
The plan is to ship the car over there for them to get the turbos installed, but some extra time will be given in case they need to diagnose the car first before installing anything.
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I don't think I've seen it on any 2011's either.
I forget where I read it but IIRC there was a revision to the ECU programming that no longer requires ester oil on the 2011. I thought I also read that the ester was at first recommended because of valve noise, which could have been interpreted as knock. If that is true, that would cause the car to pull timing and would definitely get better after an ECU reset (and come back.) Last edited by Davey; 05-18-2011 at 07:48 PM. |
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It's weird... G37 owners first reported a couple of things:
As for the car pulling timing, I don't know. However, the problem goes away for awhile after letting the car cool down for at least 1 minute. After several minutes of driving, it comes back. There are some days or weeks I've not seen the problem show up as well, so it's not really an everyday thing. However, it is definitely easy to lose power on a warm day (above 70 deg) after driving around for awhile. [EDIT] WTF... I just saw the thread about 2011 models not requiring ester oil because of the ECM update. Hmm... wonder if I should test drive the 2011 Z for a day or two lol. Seriously... I might want in on this.
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First oil change / ester oil WTF? I have not seen an actual TSB on it. But the attachment in the 1st post clearly states the '11 Z does not need ester (the weird thing is, my owners manual does recommend ester - but it does not say it is required.) |
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what oil are you guys using? rarely happens to me and im using motul 5w30, which is ester, and used nissan ester for my first oil change.
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The dealership uses regular Quaker oil. I'll switch over to synthetic after getting the turbos. The only reason why I use the regular stuff is simply because the car isn't driven very hard 95% of the time. The 5% is getting on the freeway. Regardless, the only time I see 220F is on hot summer days from extensive driving (i.e., looking around for a house haha). Around this time 200F would be the most I see driving home from work.
BTW... what oil filter are you using? I'm probably going to switch to something larger like Purolator or something that most owners recommend over OEM.
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