To be honest, a video won't really do much justice because you have to be behind the wheel to feel what it is happening. Simply having a video showing the RPM behavior won't really help, I don't think. Because to the viewers, there will be a lot of unknowns, which will raise lots of questions (did you do..., that could be..., what was..., etc...).

But maybe I'm wrong.

If turning off the VDC means you are going yo crash in a wall then I can suggest some low horsepower FWD or AWD cars you can opt for. With the summer heat, good tires and a real drivers skill, there's no reason you shouldn't be able to drive with the VDC off.

If you can't keep a sports car stable without the saftey equipment activated, then you basically don't belong in one with or without the safety equipment on.

Too many people want high horsepower sports cars, but no one wants to put in the driving time and learn the techniques of driving them before aquiring them.

On that note, whenever I am merging in my G, I throw it in manual, I get instantaneous throttle response on the paddleshift. Should be the same for the Z.

agreed paddles are the way to go :iagree:

exZZZellent post +1

You probably shouldn't be driving. My normal sequence when I get into my car is buckle, start, turn off VDC, turn on cruise.

Hesitation virtually gone
 

Big thanks to m4a1mustang who advised me to clean the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. I did that and replaced air filters-pretty dirty after 11 months and some leaves and debris in the boxes. My Z is running like new again.

Glad that you sorted it out! :tup:

Any fixes yet, m4a1?
I will take a look at air filters / MAF's later today...

Other than making sure you filters are clean and unobstructed and your MAF sensors are clean, not really. There is an inherent lack of low-end torque in this car, so it will be a little lethargic under 4k (and especially under 3k) regardless of what we do.

Cleaning my MAF, which I had not done for 23,000 miles :shakes head:, definitely helped in my case.

The biggest thing with this car is that if you want to go, you need to plan ahead. Keep the revs up so you're in the power band, otherwise the car will likely fall flat on it's face. The VHR is quite the dog in the low revs!

Alright, gonna clean today then! I have 25k+ miles, haven't cleaned them. I keep up on the air filters though.

I'm sure you know the drill about handling the sensors, but I'll mention it anyways... don't touch the sensor with ANYTHING! Make sure you unplug it before you spray them, too. :)

Can you explain the process m4a1? And what is CRC MAF cleaner?

It's an eletrical contact cleaner. I don't know if it's any different than other electrical cleaners but I figured the safest (and easiest) bet would just be to go with the CRC branded MAF cleaner that they sell at AutoZone. I'm sure they sell a MAF cleaner at all other auto part stores as well.

You just disconnect the MAF sensors from their connectors, then unscrew them from the MAF tube. Pull them out very carefully, holding at the base, and spray them per the instructions on the can (about 15 good sprays). Let it dry (it dries in seconds), and reinstall. Be careful not to touch the sensors with anything... they are very easily damaged.

If your sensors are dirty the ECU won't receive accurate or reliable air flow readings which can negatively impact engine performance.

While you're at it, clean your filter and airbox of dirt and debris. If a leaf or other debris makes it's way into the airbox it's possible that it could block a good portion of the filter, which can make a big impact in performance.

Yea I just cleaned out my filters last night and ordered new K&N drop in filters. There were alot of leaves and even a piece of popcorn styrofoam in the box :icon14: I'll take a look at the MAF sensors today. Thanks +1!

BTW do you a pic to see where the MAF sensors are located?