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Gas Pedal Delay

^ What I do notice about the 370Z is that VDC is a tad aggressive. Even slightly rough engagements will activate it. My 350Z came with TCS so I didn't

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Old 10-15-2010, 07:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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^ What I do notice about the 370Z is that VDC is a tad aggressive. Even slightly rough engagements will activate it. My 350Z came with TCS so I didn't remember it overreacting on dry pavement. The lagging does feel like VDC/TCS kicking in, but with no SLIP indicator even when it's [supposedly] disabled. O_o

Where is this sensor? Any drawbacks other than the lack of VDC/TCS at times when it is necessary?
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Old 10-15-2010, 07:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Agreed. I was reading a couple of other threads on this last night, and apparently turning VDC off doesn't turn off ALL things related to traction control. Some people mentioned pulling a fuse; however that fuse controls your break lights too.
I second that... where is the sensor so I can try to unplug it.

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^ What I do notice about the 370Z is that VDC is a tad aggressive. Even slightly rough engagements will activate it. My 350Z came with TCS so I didn't remember it overreacting on dry pavement. The lagging does feel like VDC/TCS kicking in, but with no SLIP indicator even when it's [supposedly] disabled. O_o

Where is this sensor? Any drawbacks other than the lack of VDC/TCS at times when it is necessary?
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Old 10-15-2010, 10:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DIGItonium View Post
^ What I do notice about the 370Z is that VDC is a tad aggressive. Even slightly rough engagements will activate it. My 350Z came with TCS so I didn't remember it overreacting on dry pavement. The lagging does feel like VDC/TCS kicking in, but with no SLIP indicator even when it's [supposedly] disabled. O_o

Where is this sensor? Any drawbacks other than the lack of VDC/TCS at times when it is necessary?
The sensor (not the brake light fuse) is under the center console. Just pull the cup holder and look in front/under the e-brake. It's a little hard to get to like this but I did it. If not you have to remove the center console to get full access to the ebrake area. No drawbacks if u know how to drive without CDC and tcs. Let's u drift the car also.
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The sensor (not the brake light fuse) is under the center console. Just pull the cup holder and look in front/under the e-brake. It's a little hard to get to like this but I did it. If not you have to remove the center console to get full access to the ebrake area. No drawbacks if u know how to drive without CDC and tcs. Let's u drift the car also.
Does this cause any dash lights to come on? Since tcs/vdc is disabled?

Thanks!
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Old 10-15-2010, 11:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Does this cause any dash lights to come on? Since tcs/vdc is disabled?

Thanks!
Yeah, the vdc and tcs lights will be on showing u that they actually off like when u push the vdc button. No other lights though. Nothing different then just pushing the button except u don't have to push the button anymore and no tcs interference
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Old 10-18-2010, 12:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah, the vdc and tcs lights will be on showing u that they actually off like when u push the vdc button. No other lights though. Nothing different then just pushing the button except u don't have to push the button anymore and no tcs interference
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Old 10-15-2010, 08:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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No, the fuse trick is to allow you to left foot brake/brake torque the car. The ABLS kicks on if you have excessive wheel spin from one side, you will see a light coming on the dash when it is on. The throttle tune is very soft on the Z, that's why you dont get the immediate push. You just have to get used to it.
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Old 10-15-2010, 08:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The throttle tune is very soft on the Z, that's why you dont get the immediate push. You just have to get used to it.
*sigh*
It's not that. I've put 29,500 miles on it... I think I'm "used to it" by now.
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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*sigh*
It's not that. I've put 29,500 miles on it... I think I'm "used to it" by now.
Go bring it on a dyno and see if you have any break in power. Butt dyno is a lot different than what the car is doing. My 350 felt a lot faster than my 370, but it doesn't once I put my telemetry in the car.
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm still not sure about that. With the cool weather we've been having lately I haven't had the usual throttle lagging issues. If it's really the nature of the throttle programming, then temperature wouldn't be an issue.
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:20 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm still not sure about that. With the cool weather we've been having lately I haven't had the usual throttle lagging issues. If it's really the nature of the throttle programming, then temperature wouldn't be an issue.
True, unless the sensor gives wrong values when it's hot - a faulty sensor for example.
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:28 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm still not sure about that. With the cool weather we've been having lately I haven't had the usual throttle lagging issues. If it's really the nature of the throttle programming, then temperature wouldn't be an issue.
During summer I can see us doing the "Ice mod" where one wraps the sensor in ice. LOL
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:37 AM   #13 (permalink)
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During summer I can see us doing the "Ice mod" where one wraps the sensor in ice. LOL
I'm going for dry ice!
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Old 10-15-2010, 11:57 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DIGItonium View Post
I'm still not sure about that. With the cool weather we've been having lately I haven't had the usual throttle lagging issues. If it's really the nature of the throttle programming, then temperature wouldn't be an issue.
This actually makes me think that the problem is with a faulty sensor... If it truly was an ECU issue, we should see the problem massively wide-spread, unless certain people are just really sensitive to it. If there was a batch of faulty sensors (oil temp, yaw sensor, brake, etc...), then it would only be prevalent on a handful of vehicles. The faulty sensor could only be acting up when it gets hot. I'm still having the problem, as it hasn't cooled down significantly yet. This morning it was running great (it was cool out). I just got back from lunch, and car was at normal temp, and oil pushing 220, and it was doing it. Next oil change, I'm going to do the engine oil temperature check.
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Old 10-15-2010, 05:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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This morning it was running great (it was cool out). I just got back from lunch, and car was at normal temp, and oil pushing 220, and it was doing it. Next oil change, I'm going to do the engine oil temperature check.
Today was warm enough for the problem to come back. I find myself stabbing the throttle in traffic from 1st-3rd. It makes an S2000 feel like a torque monster down low. A visit to the dealership is scheduled for Tuesday after work, and I will be driving with a tech. They will keep the car overnight and do another test the next morning for comparison purpose, but I was also asked to drive another Z as well.

For anyone who encounter this issue, please park the car in neutral and observe the response time, rev level, and how long it holds before it drops back to idle:
1) Quickly stab the pedal to the floor and release it.
2) Fully press the pedal to the floor in a more casual fashion.
3) Turn off the car and let it "cool off" for about a minute.
4) Turn it back on and repeat steps 1 and 2.

I did this today and got some interesting results. I got done recording video with oil temps close to 220F. Tomorrow morning I will do normal vids after the car warms up and upload it on YouTube.
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