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^ What I do notice about the 370Z is that VDC is a tad aggressive. Even slightly rough engagements will activate it. My 350Z came with TCS so I didn't
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#1 (permalink) |
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^ What I do notice about the 370Z is that VDC is a tad aggressive. Even slightly rough engagements will activate it. My 350Z came with TCS so I didn't remember it overreacting on dry pavement. The lagging does feel like VDC/TCS kicking in, but with no SLIP indicator even when it's [supposedly] disabled. O_o
Where is this sensor? Any drawbacks other than the lack of VDC/TCS at times when it is necessary?
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Agreed. I was reading a couple of other threads on this last night, and apparently turning VDC off doesn't turn off ALL things related to traction control. Some people mentioned pulling a fuse; however that fuse controls your break lights too.
I second that... where is the sensor so I can try to unplug it. Quote:
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Yeah, the vdc and tcs lights will be on showing u that they actually off like when u push the vdc button. No other lights though. Nothing different then just pushing the button except u don't have to push the button anymore and no tcs interference
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No, the fuse trick is to allow you to left foot brake/brake torque the car. The ABLS kicks on if you have excessive wheel spin from one side, you will see a light coming on the dash when it is on. The throttle tune is very soft on the Z, that's why you dont get the immediate push. You just have to get used to it.
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Go bring it on a dyno and see if you have any break in power. Butt dyno is a lot different than what the car is doing. My 350 felt a lot faster than my 370, but it doesn't once I put my telemetry in the car.
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I'm still not sure about that. With the cool weather we've been having lately I haven't had the usual throttle lagging issues. If it's really the nature of the throttle programming, then temperature wouldn't be an issue.
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This actually makes me think that the problem is with a faulty sensor... If it truly was an ECU issue, we should see the problem massively wide-spread, unless certain people are just really sensitive to it. If there was a batch of faulty sensors (oil temp, yaw sensor, brake, etc...), then it would only be prevalent on a handful of vehicles. The faulty sensor could only be acting up when it gets hot. I'm still having the problem, as it hasn't cooled down significantly yet. This morning it was running great (it was cool out). I just got back from lunch, and car was at normal temp, and oil pushing 220, and it was doing it. Next oil change, I'm going to do the engine oil temperature check.
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For anyone who encounter this issue, please park the car in neutral and observe the response time, rev level, and how long it holds before it drops back to idle: 1) Quickly stab the pedal to the floor and release it. 2) Fully press the pedal to the floor in a more casual fashion. 3) Turn off the car and let it "cool off" for about a minute. 4) Turn it back on and repeat steps 1 and 2. I did this today and got some interesting results. I got done recording video with oil temps close to 220F. Tomorrow morning I will do normal vids after the car warms up and upload it on YouTube.
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