Oil Cooler Experiences
 

I would like to hear people's experiences with various oil coolers. Which one do you consider to be the best for performance, ease of install, and quality?

Start with my DIY thread (link in my sig). Read it all for lots of info.

I also went the same route as Modshack and put together my own kit. His DIY was actually my inspiration, although I did do some things differently and my Z is a NISMO. My DIY is in my signature as well.

I just changed my oil 2 days ago and inspected my install. There were no leaks, seeping, so soaking on any fittings or hoses. The hoses themselves are showing zero signs of wear and my oil temps have still been great. I just switched from Mobil 1 Synthetic to Red Line and things are even better :D (Let it be from fresh oil or oil quality)

I did the Stillen "race" oil cooler. Works great in the desert heat and on the track. When it is below 60 outside it is hard to get the oil up to normal temp. Something to block the air flow to the cooler helps a great deal in the winter.

1st off, I would like to thank Modshack and Vipor for their articles.

I have the socketless setup, though I ordered the blue lines and the next larger size cooler. To avoid overcooling, my blockoff is one-sided - the side that is blocked is the front. The 90deg fittings attached to the thermo-plate are actually facing back; this allowed me to route the lines in an S-shape configuration to allow for gazillion of slack.

I am super happy with my setup and no longer pay much attention to the dreaded 260deg mark. So far, in Calif, with the block-off plate still installed, I have not exceeded 215 deg. When I cruise down Pacific Coast Highway at 6:30 a.m., my temp stays at 185deg.

Do it --- you won't regret it.



p.s.,

Hopefully, your thread will not turn into "you don't need a cooler if you don't track your car....." :)

i also built my own set up...i have to beat the hell out of it over and over again just reach 200 degrees but on average it run 175/180 puttin around town. i do have a large cooler as i plan to track the car plus south florida temp suck!! all socket less / 10an fittings. modshack's diy is very very good!

Used the technique described by Vipor as I have a NISMO as well. Only modifications: Setrab 24 row vs. 19 row (series 6) and used Aeroquip stainless steel (-10 an) hose with heater hose as a covering at all contact points as the stainless steel can act like a hacksaw at contact points. So far about 400+ miles without an issue. The hottest my temps have been is 210-215 in stop-and-go traffic. I inspected the fittings once at around 300 miles and everything looked fine. Very happy with performance so far. I dont track the car, or plan to, but I do believe that engine life/performance is greatly affected by temps. Good luck

We just installed the GTM Competition oil cooler, and it does an excellent job at keeping engine oil temps in check. We made our own lines, only because GTM didn't have them in stock at the time and we needed the kit asap. If you don't see the road course too often, you could go with the standard oil cooler kit, which uses a smaller core.

Here's a pic of the Competition kit.
http://i40.tinypic.com/wu2hj4.jpg

thank you all for the useful information. Much appreciated. I am not sure how far I intend on modding my car so I have to put some thought into what to do here. Lots of options to choose from.

IMHO, adding a cooler is really not a modification. Rather, it is a necessity.

I am fully aware of the debate between having and not having a cooler. I am also aware of Nissan's published standing of the limp mode and oil temperature.

Right, wrong or indifferent it is the owners decision to install or not install for "mental comfort". :)

I agree with cab... I am in no way a modifier like some of the guys are here but I feel that the cooler is a necessity, esp here in TX. Good luck

With all the hoses blowing off socketless AN ends, looking at the picture is a no-no isnt it...They say not to use clamps on the ends..
It makes sense to me to ensure them not coming off as I was going to do the same thing, but all the threads say not to do it on those that had them come loose.

Since then I had fitted ends put on hoses, but as of yet not installed it until more positive reviews come out of it...I just did my first oil change ast 1500 miles (1800 now) and still pending...no rush for me if it'l be compared to a busted engine..

They do...From what I've read, the socketless hose is actually designed to increase grip as pressure is applied (like a chinese finger handcuff). If a hose clamp cuts the inner liner by tightening it against a barb, this particular design is rendered ineffective, hence the caution on this. On my original hose set-up I just snugged up ties in the valleys between the barbs to prevent any possible hose expansion. 4000 trouble free miles like that. If you have real concerns, have the hoses professionally crimped or build your own with stainless line and socket type fittings. Those are bulletproof when assembled correctly.

I have the Stillen Race Cooler with a 140 degree Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate. On the track, temps never get above 220 degrees.

However, even with the Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate it is a pain to get temps above 160 when it gets cold outside. I had to make a custom piece that blocks the area in front of the oil cooler for autumn and winter driving. With it installed, oil temps stay firmly around 210 degrees and never higher than 220.

i have to agree with modshack, i have had my oil cooler on my car for a little over 6k miles and mine is running perfectly.

Even with the regular cooler size you'll need to do this. I turn my 24 row into a 14 row for the winter and temps run 180+ in most all winter conditions..


Just a simple cap to block off some of it..Bend it up:
http://images53.fotki.com/v421/photo...MG_2211-vi.jpg


Paint it black, and just slip into place when the temps start to drop:
http://images53.fotki.com/v420/photo...MG_2217-vi.jpg

I don't see any indication of a thermostat in the sandwich plate.

i just received the Stillen street version, i went with stillen because of the use of the Goodridge lines i wont be installing it for a couple weeks, i am only at ~500 miles and plan on doing an oil change at around 2500 and i will install then and and run Nissans ester oil and see what that does. Stillen is also including the filters to the kit not so you are not left with half of what you need. it might be more pricey then going the DIY route but now i dont have to source any products on my own it all showed up in one box.