Rear Axle Clunk (Please Report Here!)

UNKNOWN_370 · 05-09-2010, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedZed34

Yeah, I understand its a sports car and it will be noisier than your everyday civic, corolla whatever... the cabin noise, the clutch & throwout bearing noises dont bother me, but the noise from the rear is different. I seriously doubt other sports cars do the same thing. I've had numerous rides in corvettes, porsche's, etc... and I've never noticed the same thing. Even if the noise was there, it certainly wasnt as loud as my car. Yes, they are more expensive cars, but its the same principle. If the sound was hardly noticable and it did it all the time... fine. But when you can hear it 30ft.. 40ft.. away, that just isn't right.

And I guess the oil temp issues with the 370z is also "normal" because it's a sports car and it happens to all of us. Again, if nissan was smart and installed an oil cooler from the factory, this wouldnt be an issue either. Now to even put one on is a concern because it will probably void the warranty?? I'm sorry, I still disagree with the people that call these types of things "normal".

Buddy, you are beating a dead horse. Besides they are real hard on newbs here. Also there's a lot of cliquing between members so if you keep talking about it they are going to gang up on you and eat you alive.
Get the axle greased. Then drive it. Worst case scenario, it will need grease in 3 or 4 years. The Z is one of the most reliable sports cars out there.
I've owned quite a few nissans. They all have quirks. They all have something going on that's alarming compared to other brands. I had a 98 altima with tranny jump. I would put it in gear and it would pop. Took it to 3 mechanics. They couldn't find anything. I had a 240sx that did the same thing. I sold the 240sx before I could even care. But the altima, I was keeping so I checked it out. The mechanic told me some wise words that hold true 3 more nissans later. He said "In all the years I worked on nissans, they have quirks I can't exxplain, weird abnormalities, but they will never break down." Out of 5 nissans, and probably a combined million miles. I had one breakdown on the alternator on the 98 altima. Nothing else. You will get used to your car. I don't have a Z yet, I have a G which shares most components minus some extra peformance parts and short chassis.
I'm sure you will be ok. Just get some grease bro.

ZeeRay · 05-25-2010, 06:02 PM

Well guys I have this clunk that just developed as well. Before any of the locals try to flame me as a newbie or some turnip wagon ballast let me state the following. One until about 3 years ago I was an L-1 certified ASE autotech, I have built and driven more cars than no doubt 85% of those on this forum, and grew up in a prototype aerospace machine shop.
When it comes to tolerances and proper operation I think I can safely say that I have a pretty damn good grasp on things. This noise is what makes you lean directly to the typical U-joint or ring and pinion slack. Of course our independent suspension gives us the option of CV shafts as well.
Regardless, don't let anyone tell you that this is acceptable. It is a sign of wear and loss of operable tolerances. I have just over 7,000 miles on my Z and don't drive it hard. This is unacceptable and only going to get worse.
Reading here and listening to some of these guys bash others for being concerned and happily driving their cars while destroying parts of them is enough to make me turn a deaf ear.
If some of you want to leave it and sound like your driving on square tires because your car isn't a rolls royce go ahead. I would rather have mine in proper operating order.

P.S. It goes to the dealer in the A.M.

RedZed34 · 05-26-2010, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZeeRay

Well guys I have this clunk that just developed as well. Before any of the locals try to flame me as a newbie or some turnip wagon ballast let me state the following. One until about 3 years ago I was an L-1 certified ASE autotech, I have built and driven more cars than no doubt 85% of those on this forum, and grew up in a prototype aerospace machine shop.
When it comes to tolerances and proper operation I think I can safely say that I have a pretty damn good grasp on things. This noise is what makes you lean directly to the typical U-joint or ring and pinion slack. Of course our independent suspension gives us the option of CV shafts as well.
Regardless, don't let anyone tell you that this is acceptable. It is a sign of wear and loss of operable tolerances. I have just over 7,000 miles on my Z and don't drive it hard. This is unacceptable and only going to get worse.
Reading here and listening to some of these guys bash others for being concerned and happily driving their cars while destroying parts of them is enough to make me turn a deaf ear.
If some of you want to leave it and sound like your driving on square tires because your car isn't a rolls royce go ahead. I would rather have mine in proper operating order.

P.S. It goes to the dealer in the A.M.

Thanks for your comment ZeeRay. At least there's someone out there that sees my reasoning and understands where I'm coming from. I've pretty much given up on this thread at this point because everyone "knows it all" and just wants to rip your head off for posting a concern.

P.S. I still havent been back to my dealer yet to have the axle greased... as I'm still hesitant of doing it if it's only a temporary fix just to "quiet down" the noise. But if you could please either post back up or even PM me what your dealers says about your car's situation, that would be great!! Thanks

cossie1600 · 05-26-2010, 09:08 AM

Nissan has the worst customer service, good luck getting them to do anything

JvKintheUSA · 07-18-2010, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brazilbro

Yup, all normal.

Well each drive train will have a little play,but they should not have a clunk - the clunk we are experiencing is not normal IMO. I had the rear axles replaced by the dealer and that helped - car drive train felt tighter - for about 10k miles. Problem has returned however.. I cannot consider this normal, since other RWD cars do not make this clunk.

JvKintheUSA · 07-18-2010, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedZed34

No, its almost like a series of clunks/clacks... either as I start moving forward or backwards as torque is applied. I didn't notice it when I picked up the car either. I started to notice it at around 1,000 miles or so and its gotten progessively louder.

Sounds like two metal bars being hit together.

RedZed34 · 07-19-2010, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JvKintheUSA

Well each drive train will have a little play,but they should not have a clunk - the clunk we are experiencing is not normal IMO. I had the rear axles replaced by the dealer and that helped - car drive train felt tighter - for about 10k miles. Problem has returned however.. I cannot consider this normal, since other RWD cars do not make this clunk.

Hmm... I never got my axles replaced or greased yet so it's still making the noise. However, seeing that you had this done and it still didnt help the car in the long run then I probably wont even bother unless Nissan actually does a permanent fix through a recall/bulletin. And I agree, this isnt "normal".

gufazi · 07-19-2010, 12:03 PM

1st post. Maybe a shot in the dark.

Try turning off your VDC traction control module and see if the problem, if it truly is one, persists. Some units and some cars like to run quick tests of this modules after coming to a complete stop. Sometimes those tests can be audible.

JvKintheUSA · 07-19-2010, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gufazi

1st post. Maybe a shot in the dark.

Try turning off your VDC traction control module and see if the problem, if it truly is one, persists. Some units and some cars like to run quick tests of this modules after coming to a complete stop. Sometimes those tests can be audible.

Worth a try - I know in the manual they state that the car can make a clunk as part of the VDC testing at low speeds, but I'm pretty sure it is not the problem, but nonetheless will give a try.

Mr&Mrs · 03-07-2011, 11:56 AM

Hmm I have this issue as well. Did turning off the VDC help?

Unclemeaty · 03-07-2011, 01:30 PM

Hmm.. The beginings of this thread are actually older than the length of time I've had my car (Since September). I bought my car used at about 20k miles. At 24k miles I started to hear clunking on the outside of the rear driver side wheel/axle area, more promenent when going over speed bumps, but also audible on slight accel/decel. I first thought it may have been brakes and not under warrantee, so upon inspection I found the large axle nut which holds the half-axle to the wheel hub had come loose, and backed out all thw way to the cotter pin! I was actually able to slide the whole axle about 1/8" in-and-out from the wheel hub in the state it was found, while the axle nut had been backed out about 4 turns 'natually' over time.

I fixed it myself since I was right there, in the garage, with some tools available. The axle nut is about 1.25" in diameter...

All I did to fix was first clean the area a from some of the grit/grease globs, pack in a bit of greese as best I could, and then re-torque the axle nut with a new locking sleve and cotter pin. The car is now at 33k miles and makes no noise at all.

More notes on this; Nissan did include a cotter pin, but from the looks of it did NOT design the axle nut to be locked in place by a cotter pin. Usually axle nuts have slits ot holes in them, or in other designs I've seen are something like this:

On my car, a standard cotter pin is in association with a standard nut on the axle; meaning theres no way the axle nut can be kept from loosening up about 4 full turns before finally beig stopped by the cotter pin.

My car's axle nut looked like THIS, without splines for locking with the stock cotter-pin.

Also the natural forward roll and rotation of the assembly could cause the Axle nutt to back out as well, as it is of regular and not reversed thread pattern. I could only speculate, but I bet the passenger side does not have this issue as forward rotation should tend to keep the assembly TIGHT.

JvKintheUSA · 03-08-2011, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unclemeaty

Hmm.. The beginings of this thread are actually older than the length of time I've had my car (Since September). I bought my car used at about 20k miles. At 24k miles I started to hear clunking on the outside of the rear driver side wheel/axle area, more promenent when going over speed bumps, but also audible on slight accel/decel. I first thought it may have been brakes and not under warrantee, so upon inspection I found the large axle nut which holds the half-axle to the wheel hub had come loose, and backed out all thw way to the cotter pin! I was actually able to slide the whole axle about 1/8" in-and-out from the wheel hub in the state it was found, while the axle nut had been backed out about 4 turns 'natually' over time.

I fixed it myself since I was right there, in the garage, with some tools available. The axle nut is about 1.25" in diameter...

All I did to fix was first clean the area a from some of the grit/grease globs, pack in a bit of greese as best I could, and then re-torque the axle nut with a new locking sleve and cotter pin. The car is now at 33k miles and makes no noise at all.

More notes on this; Nissan did include a cotter pin, but from the looks of it did NOT design the axle nut to be locked in place by a cotter pin. Usually axle nuts have slits ot holes in them, or in other designs I've seen are something like this:

On my car, a standard cotter pin is in association with a standard nut on the axle; meaning theres no way the axle nut can be kept from loosening up about 4 full turns before finally beig stopped by the cotter pin.

My car's axle nut looked like THIS, without splines for locking with the stock cotter-pin.

Also the natural forward roll and rotation of the assembly could cause the Axle nutt to back out as well, as it is of regular and not reversed thread pattern. I could only speculate, but I bet the passenger side does not have this issue as forward rotation should tend to keep the assembly TIGHT.

Wow! I better check that nut under my car this weekend!

Juruki · 03-08-2011, 08:23 PM

wheres this nut located? got any pics?

Unclemeaty · 03-08-2011, 09:19 PM

I dont have any pics, but here is a pic of a similar axle nut from another vehicle. Basically, you can get access to this nut simply by removing one of the rear wheels. The nut will be right in front of you then, and is about 1.25" in diameter.

This image shows an axle nut WITH a retainer for the cotter pin. My/our cars do not have this retainer.

Unclemeaty · 03-08-2011, 09:23 PM

Part number 43084 in this picture; this is an actual parts layout for the rear of a 370z. Also notice the cotter pin: #3262A

05-25-2010, 06:02 PM	#17 (permalink)
ZeeRay Base Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Lawton, Ok Posts: 51 Drives: 370Z and a Corvette Rep Power: 16	Well guys I have this clunk that just developed as well. Before any of the locals try to flame me as a newbie or some turnip wagon ballast let me state the following. One until about 3 years ago I was an L-1 certified ASE autotech, I have built and driven more cars than no doubt 85% of those on this forum, and grew up in a prototype aerospace machine shop. When it comes to tolerances and proper operation I think I can safely say that I have a pretty damn good grasp on things. This noise is what makes you lean directly to the typical U-joint or ring and pinion slack. Of course our independent suspension gives us the option of CV shafts as well. Regardless, don't let anyone tell you that this is acceptable. It is a sign of wear and loss of operable tolerances. I have just over 7,000 miles on my Z and don't drive it hard. This is unacceptable and only going to get worse. Reading here and listening to some of these guys bash others for being concerned and happily driving their cars while destroying parts of them is enough to make me turn a deaf ear. If some of you want to leave it and sound like your driving on square tires because your car isn't a rolls royce go ahead. I would rather have mine in proper operating order. P.S. It goes to the dealer in the A.M. DYNAZOR likes this.

03-07-2011, 01:30 PM	#26 (permalink)
Unclemeaty Base Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Atlanta Posts: 203 Drives: 150cc Scooter Rep Power: 15	Hmm.. The beginings of this thread are actually older than the length of time I've had my car (Since September). I bought my car used at about 20k miles. At 24k miles I started to hear clunking on the outside of the rear driver side wheel/axle area, more promenent when going over speed bumps, but also audible on slight accel/decel. I first thought it may have been brakes and not under warrantee, so upon inspection I found the large axle nut which holds the half-axle to the wheel hub had come loose, and backed out all thw way to the cotter pin! I was actually able to slide the whole axle about 1/8" in-and-out from the wheel hub in the state it was found, while the axle nut had been backed out about 4 turns 'natually' over time. I fixed it myself since I was right there, in the garage, with some tools available. The axle nut is about 1.25" in diameter... All I did to fix was first clean the area a from some of the grit/grease globs, pack in a bit of greese as best I could, and then re-torque the axle nut with a new locking sleve and cotter pin. The car is now at 33k miles and makes no noise at all. More notes on this; Nissan did include a cotter pin, but from the looks of it did NOT design the axle nut to be locked in place by a cotter pin. Usually axle nuts have slits ot holes in them, or in other designs I've seen are something like this: On my car, a standard cotter pin is in association with a standard nut on the axle; meaning theres no way the axle nut can be kept from loosening up about 4 full turns before finally beig stopped by the cotter pin. My car's axle nut looked like THIS, without splines for locking with the stock cotter-pin. Also the natural forward roll and rotation of the assembly could cause the Axle nutt to back out as well, as it is of regular and not reversed thread pattern. I could only speculate, but I bet the passenger side does not have this issue as forward rotation should tend to keep the assembly TIGHT. Initial Z likes this. Last edited by Unclemeaty; 03-07-2011 at 01:37 PM.

03-08-2011, 09:23 PM	#30 (permalink)
Unclemeaty Base Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Atlanta Posts: 203 Drives: 150cc Scooter Rep Power: 15	Part number 43084 in this picture; this is an actual parts layout for the rear of a 370z. Also notice the cotter pin: #3262A Initial Z likes this.

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05-26-2010, 09:08 AM	#19 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 30	Nissan has the worst customer service, good luck getting them to do anything

07-19-2010, 12:03 PM	#23 (permalink)
gufazi Base Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Springfield, Virginia Posts: 28 Drives: 09 370Z Tour Sport Rep Power: 15	1st post. Maybe a shot in the dark. Try turning off your VDC traction control module and see if the problem, if it truly is one, persists. Some units and some cars like to run quick tests of this modules after coming to a complete stop. Sometimes those tests can be audible.

03-07-2011, 11:56 AM	#25 (permalink)
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03-08-2011, 08:23 PM	#28 (permalink)
Juruki Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: SoCal Posts: 965 Drives: 370Z Tour/Sport/Navi Rep Power: 16	wheres this nut located? got any pics?

03-08-2011, 09:19 PM	#29 (permalink)
Unclemeaty Base Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Atlanta Posts: 203 Drives: 150cc Scooter Rep Power: 15	I dont have any pics, but here is a pic of a similar axle nut from another vehicle. Basically, you can get access to this nut simply by removing one of the rear wheels. The nut will be right in front of you then, and is about 1.25" in diameter. This image shows an axle nut WITH a retainer for the cotter pin. My/our cars do not have this retainer.