Rear Axle Clunk (Please Report Here!)

juld0zer

i've recently started to hear a frequent clunk from the rear end also.
i can hear it when releasing the clutch at idle and higher revs. forward, reverse and while changing gears or letting off the gas pedal.

4 whole turns is ridiculous. i'm going to pop the wheels off tomorrow and have a look myself.
To eliminate the issue of the nut having up to 4 full turns of movement til
it hits the cotter pin, i will find a suitable washer(s) and put it between the nut and the cotter pin.

i wonder why most people are reporting noise from the left side?
The reason i wonder is quite simple:
1. go grab a bottle with a cap
2. hold the cap firmly
3. rotate the bottle clockwise
4. observe the cap as you rotate the bottle.

what you just simulated is the axle rotating clockwise. the cap is the axle nut, which came loose as you rotated the bottle.
the only side that rotates clockwise during forward motion is the right hand side....

unless folks are reversing more enthusiastically than i am?

Z370Z011

just take it to the dealer. I have 32k on my car and they fixed it for free, i actually just went like 2 days ago.

juld0zer

depending what i find, i'll let the dealer fix the bigger problems that require parts. i dont mind getting my hands dirty and getting familiar for when the warranty runs out.

if the diff bushes are leaking.. that's a dealer job for sure but its great knowing whiteline make replacements

juld0zer

ok, so the regreasing fixed my clunking.

unfortunately for me it wasnt a 35min per side job. getting the axle nut off and applying the grease as per the 350z UK forum was the easiest part.

the part that took the longest was when i had to re-secure the "adjusting cap" on the RHS axle (the thing that looks like a large beer cap) using the cotter pin. couldnt get a direct blow with a hammer and the pin is too stiff to use pointy pliers.

Some tips for any future DIY de-clunkerers:
- Pop out the hub cap and put the tyre back on with a couple of lug nuts. This makes it easier to spin the axle while you apply grease. Much easier than wrestling the brake rotor while trying not to make a mess with the grease.
- Screw the axle nut back on so that it's on the first thread then push the axle out using a socket extension or any suitable bar, then jam a 0.5.-0.7" thick object into the gap between the nut and the hole where the hub cap goes. Thickness of object depends on what is required to hold the axle in the pushed out position.
- I made my own grease piping bag (think of what the wife uses to decorate cakes) by cutting the corner off a parcel satchel. Chosen for its durability and resistance to tearing. I cut about 2-3mm off the corner of the corner section i cut off the satchel. Pack the bad boy up with grease and it does a superb job at getting the right amount of grease in the right place. You can use a syringe but it'll be a pain loading it with grease. The part you are trying to grease is the ring directly around the axle splines. I applied a 3-5mm bead around this area. There was hardly any grease present - bare metal was visible. So i didnt bother cleaning it up prior.
- Rotate the adjusting cap to find a fresh set of prongs (factory would've made one set wide and hence loose on re-use.
- I removed the axle nut with the tyres on (after removing centre hub cap). I feel safer having both wheels on the ground when applying that much torque to loosen it. I highly recommend this for the folks that do not have the adjusting cap. ie. those with the nuts done up to 185Nm.

Also, according to the FSM some '09 and all '10 models do not have the adjusting cap. I assume they would have a conventional large axle nut with the cut out end. These models require the nut to done up to 185Nm (136ft lb).
Models with the adjusting cap like my '11, requires only 105Nm (77ft lb). Lug nuts are done up tighter!