Rear Axle Clunk (Please Report Here!)

juld0zer

i've recently started to hear a frequent clunk from the rear end also.
i can hear it when releasing the clutch at idle and higher revs. forward, reverse and while changing gears or letting off the gas pedal.

4 whole turns is ridiculous. i'm going to pop the wheels off tomorrow and have a look myself.
To eliminate the issue of the nut having up to 4 full turns of movement til
it hits the cotter pin, i will find a suitable washer(s) and put it between the nut and the cotter pin.

i wonder why most people are reporting noise from the left side?
The reason i wonder is quite simple:
1. go grab a bottle with a cap
2. hold the cap firmly
3. rotate the bottle clockwise
4. observe the cap as you rotate the bottle.

what you just simulated is the axle rotating clockwise. the cap is the axle nut, which came loose as you rotated the bottle.
the only side that rotates clockwise during forward motion is the right hand side....

unless folks are reversing more enthusiastically than i am?

Z370Z011

just take it to the dealer. I have 32k on my car and they fixed it for free, i actually just went like 2 days ago.

juld0zer

depending what i find, i'll let the dealer fix the bigger problems that require parts. i dont mind getting my hands dirty and getting familiar for when the warranty runs out.

if the diff bushes are leaking.. that's a dealer job for sure but its great knowing whiteline make replacements

juld0zer

ok, so the regreasing fixed my clunking.

unfortunately for me it wasnt a 35min per side job. getting the axle nut off and applying the grease as per the 350z UK forum was the easiest part.

the part that took the longest was when i had to re-secure the "adjusting cap" on the RHS axle (the thing that looks like a large beer cap) using the cotter pin. couldnt get a direct blow with a hammer and the pin is too stiff to use pointy pliers.

Some tips for any future DIY de-clunkerers:
- Pop out the hub cap and put the tyre back on with a couple of lug nuts. This makes it easier to spin the axle while you apply grease. Much easier than wrestling the brake rotor while trying not to make a mess with the grease.
- Screw the axle nut back on so that it's on the first thread then push the axle out using a socket extension or any suitable bar, then jam a 0.5.-0.7" thick object into the gap between the nut and the hole where the hub cap goes. Thickness of object depends on what is required to hold the axle in the pushed out position.
- I made my own grease piping bag (think of what the wife uses to decorate cakes) by cutting the corner off a parcel satchel. Chosen for its durability and resistance to tearing. I cut about 2-3mm off the corner of the corner section i cut off the satchel. Pack the bad boy up with grease and it does a superb job at getting the right amount of grease in the right place. You can use a syringe but it'll be a pain loading it with grease. The part you are trying to grease is the ring directly around the axle splines. I applied a 3-5mm bead around this area. There was hardly any grease present - bare metal was visible. So i didnt bother cleaning it up prior.
- Rotate the adjusting cap to find a fresh set of prongs (factory would've made one set wide and hence loose on re-use.
- I removed the axle nut with the tyres on (after removing centre hub cap). I feel safer having both wheels on the ground when applying that much torque to loosen it. I highly recommend this for the folks that do not have the adjusting cap. ie. those with the nuts done up to 185Nm.

Also, according to the FSM some '09 and all '10 models do not have the adjusting cap. I assume they would have a conventional large axle nut with the cut out end. These models require the nut to done up to 185Nm (136ft lb).
Models with the adjusting cap like my '11, requires only 105Nm (77ft lb). Lug nuts are done up tighter!

Joepro

The axle noise is more of click thank a clunk...Had it myself and ended up needing an axle because my right threaded were mushed up and the axle nut was cross threaded on from the factory...JHC. Anyway, an actual clunk may also be the rear diff mount if axle greasing does not fix your issue.

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RedZed34

Hmm, sorry to hear some of you guys are still experiencing this issue (or similar to what I had). The clunk/click sound that my car was making back in 2010 mysteriously went away on it's own. I didn't touch anything, didn't grease anything, nothing. So I'm not entirely sure what happened. Was very strange for it being such a pronounced sound to just go away on its own like that. Hopefully everything is still ok and my rear end doesn't randomly break or fall apart. Lol

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juld0zer

hey guys,
this i think mainly applies to 6MT models but did anyone notice their Z being sluggish off the line when they were experiencing the clicking noises?

I say mainly 6MT models because you'd feel the same sluggish/sloppy shift sensation each time you change gear because you're unloading then loading up the axles again.

By sluggish i mean it feels like the handbrake is up when you take off and the car bogs before breaking free and blasting off

Joepro

Check your rear diff mount... Can't explain how crappy it made the car feel off The line and gear changes until iI installed the whitelines... and grease those splines!

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juld0zer

apart from the typical diff mount fluid oil spattered everywhere, what else should i look for?
I don't see any leaking mounts. Does jacking up the car from the diff destroy the mounts?

My regrease attempt using wheel bearing grease didnt last long. Now both sides have a very distinct and loud metallic click each time i accelerate and let go of the pedal.

Does anyone have an explanation for why grease is required in this area?
It's NOT the splines. The grease (M77) is applied to the mating face between the axle and the backside of the hub.
When i regreased it (not using M77), as i rotated the hub, the axle of course rotates with it and so too does the mating face on the hub.
I cant see any friction.... the only thing i can think of is the grease acts as a cushion. After all, M77 is an extreme pressure grease and the high moly content works even after the carrier oil has gone

DIGItonium

Greasing the splines is one thing. Have you tighten the axle bolts? That was the issue with mine. It was loose!

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juld0zer

you mean the 32mm nut?
i torqued it up per the fsm for my year (2011) which happens to be less than lug nut torque!

some models just have the castle nut with the cotter pin thru it. mine is the one with the beer cap looking thing that goes over a normal nut.

Fountainhead

Whoa, I haven't noticed anything clunking in my rear end but I only have 15K on mine. Maybe if I get bored I'll take a look . Now I'm wondering if I should check mine on general principle.

juld0zer

if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

i started with one side clicking... regreased both sides for good measure and now both are clicking. ffs!

you'll know you've got it when feathering the clutch in 1st or reverse results in a metallic click. it's not hard to hear with stereo off or low and windows down.

juld0zer

Did you mean the 6 on each side, holding the axle to the diff stubs? I torqued them back up after i removed the axles completely to regrease.

The bloody click has returned, only on the right hand side one it seems.
My theory now is that the nut threads have stretched. I ordered all items marked as single use only on the FSM and i'll be replacing them soon.
- Axle nuts
- Washers under each nut
- 12 x bolts
- Adjusting caps (the beer cap looking thing) - although not listed as single use
- Cotter pins

No chances taken this time. I want the click gone for good. It's killing my enjoyment of this car.

espaguete

I had this issue with my 2009 370z Base Model.
Rear left axle had the clunk noise.
I took it twice to the dealer and the noise came back.
The dealer service guys were very difficult so, i called Nissan Consumer Affairs.
immediatelly, the dealer became verynhelpful and polite.
they tried one more time to disassemble and lubricate the rear axles and suspension.
the noise went away for 6 weeks and came back.
once again i took it back to them. they then tried to push it to the extended warranty company.
i told them that they would have their claim refused since this was included in the powertrain warranty.
finally they honored the factory warranty and changed my left rear axle.
its been only 2 days, so im keeping my fingers crossed that the issue is gone.
2 thumbs up tu Nissan Consumer Affairs that follow up my case all they way until the end