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I really think this is just operator error... My clutch has no issues at all, even if I don't rev the engine at all, it's still smooth...
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#1 (permalink) |
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I really think this is just operator error... My clutch has no issues at all, even if I don't rev the engine at all, it's still smooth...
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Ridiculous, all of it. While this manual is not the smoothest I've driven, it is one of the most precise. "Juddery"?..... MORE rpms man!! Learn how to properly drive a manual before commenting. I know, I'll get flamed for this, but I've driven manual gearboxed cars from Audi's to the Z and everything in between. I just don't see all the complaints. Just get over it and learn how to properly drive one or go with the 7AT.
Wow!
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Yeah, I must be screwing up by not checking the speed of my synchros. Whatever guys. I've been driving manuals for 16 years and this is by far the clunkiest, roughest transmission I have owned for a manual. It still moves the car forward which is what counts.
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I suck at driving stick, but my transmission seems fine as long as I "launch" with the tach at 2K RPM or higher. Even below that it's not bad unless I let the clutch out too fast. I'll tell you this...never in a million years would I trade this "piss poor" 6MT for a 7AT. I had a 2001 Corvette with an automatic and it's just so much more engaging and fun to drive a manual.
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I've been driving manuals for over 20 years. The judder (or chatter) I'm experiencing is not due to operator error. The car will pull away more smoothly with added rpm, but there really shouldn't be clutch chatter when leaving at 1200-1400 rpm...that's plenty of revs for a smooth, easy take-off. AFAIK, clutches with ceramic-metallic linings can exhibit this trait. I'm not sure if our cars have them, though.
To my knowledge, in years past, only certain aftermarket high performance clutches would chatter at low rpm. This is the first production car I've owned with clutch chatter. It's not really bad, I'd call it mild, but it should be smooth. Last edited by rj45; 04-23-2010 at 04:46 PM. |
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Mine has the same judder. My lightweight flywheel/clutch on my 350z did the same thing..... although the stock setup was perfectly smooth no matter what you did.
Operator error? Uh, no..... |
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#13 (permalink) |
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All this "you don't know how to drive a stick" from all these expert race car drivers is a laugh. I have driven a stick for 20 years, and I also own a 300ZX Twin Turbo stick, and I have to say the 6MT in my 370Z is harder to drive and it is a pain. But you do get used to it. I use to burn my clutch every single day for 2 months after I got my car. Stalled it a dozen times since I've owned it too. Not sure if it's "broken in more" or I got better at using it. But comparing the two cars, the Z32 has a much easier to use clutch. And my yes Z32 is faster than my Z34 (for now, LOL)
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Uh oh, here comes the flaming... My brothers 2009 Jeep Wrangler with the 6-speed manual has an easier to use, smoother tranny than the Z. The only thing that is worse with the Jeep is it doesn't have SRM. I must emphasize, I love my Z though. Love love love my car.
I probably will be trading in my '09 Infin FX35 when the brand new, redesigned Wrangler comes out. I love his Wrangler... a lot. I feel the Americans are coming back. (His Jeep SRT destroys my Z. It's kind of funny.) Please guys, really, I love my Z, and will buy another when a redesign comes out. |
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Furthermore, i think that makes perfect sense and in no way means there is something wrong with the Z. A M/T wrangler should be easier to drive than a M/T sports car. |
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