Originally Posted by Zigen5 I did my oil change too at 4k and the job was simple... I used Mobile 1 with Mobile 1 filter. The Mobile 1 filter looks
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04-19-2010, 04:59 PM | #31 (permalink) | |
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04-19-2010, 06:21 PM | #32 (permalink) | |
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Front: Just under the rocker panel (where a running board would go), you'll see a flange running the length of the car. In the front, there are two divets in the flange which is the recommended front jack point. I jack the car up on each side at this point and place a jack stand on the same flange just forward of the jack point. Rear: On that same flange, there is another pair of divets toward the rear. I jack the car at one of these points. Usually if the front is already up, both rear tires can be lifted off the ground by jacking at just one of these rear points. Once the rear is up, I place the jack stands under the silver aluminum suspension struts. You'll see where the rear springs seat into the round portion of the aluminum struts. If you put the jack stands under the round part of the strut, you'll get a lot of 'sag' as the spring compresses. Instead, I place the jack stands further toward the inside, close to where the silver struts meet the hinge joint. It will make sense when you look under the car after having read this. One word of advice. As you lower the car each time on the jack stands, do it slowly, check, and double check how the car is being held. I've found that once the front is on jack stands, dropping the rear onto them is more challenging as the car moves sideways a bit as the floor jack comes down. Just make sure all your jack stands are touching the desired points on the bottom of the car AND the jack stand 'feet' are all flat on the ground. Also, use chocks as previously mentioned. If you don't use chocks, you have to jack the front up first. If you jack the rear off the ground first, neither the transmission or the parking brake will hold the car. It may very well roll off your jack stands, or even roll away as you're jacking it up.
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2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z Last edited by spearfish25; 04-19-2010 at 06:27 PM. |
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04-19-2010, 08:00 PM | #33 (permalink) | |
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And for those who are OCD about getting all the oil out, consider this. It takes 5.8 L of oil to fill a dry engine. So, where is that other 0.6 L hiding that just won't come out?
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04-19-2010, 08:15 PM | #34 (permalink) | |
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I thought our car takes 4.9L of oil so i got 5L's of the stuff for my next change... I'm f'd in the a if I need to buy another 5L bottle for the extra part... the manual states 4.9L =( |
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04-19-2010, 08:31 PM | #35 (permalink) | ||
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04-19-2010, 08:37 PM | #37 (permalink) |
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Pales in comparison to guys discussing exhausts.
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04-22-2010, 11:42 AM | #40 (permalink) |
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The oil drain plug is at the back of the oil pan so putting the car on ramps (or jacking it up) will have no effect except the oil will drain out a little faster.
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04-24-2010, 11:01 AM | #41 (permalink) | |
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Yes, drain oil, (best done when engine warm) replace oil filter, reinsert oil filler plug that has new crunch washer, button plastic underbelly shroud back up and then let car back on all 4's on the ground.... then fill with oil. Reminder: When you remove the old oil filter be 100% sure the rubber gasket is still in place on that old filter you removed! |
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04-24-2010, 12:55 PM | #42 (permalink) |
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Since Jake has been pretty good in providing his experience with the oil change, as has had a good response. I agree this has run it's course and should be closed. I have Pm'd Jake to let him know so it's up to him to decide.
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