Originally Posted by Kirkster Fricking fly by wire BS... I <3 throttle cables.
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07-22-2010, 02:05 PM | #46 (permalink) |
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07-22-2010, 02:06 PM | #47 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
You probably also notice that this does not last too long. BTW, I wouldn't "reset" the car. This behavior is normal.
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08-28-2010, 12:27 AM | #48 (permalink) |
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Tonight was awsome for the most part - that is until I was 1/2 a mile from my house. I met a bunch of car-nuts at my local StarBucks. Met, talked, cars, and fun -> then the trouble started on my way home.
Tonight I've been able to replicate this same problem everyone is experiencing in this thread. I have SRM but the problem was happening with sport mode both on and off. Once I thought my car was pulling itself I imidiately put the car in neutral and was able to safely get to a side parking lot. From there, I was able to replicate the problem, reving in Neutral - Over and over again. I lightly press the throttle to 2500 rpm, and then gently release. The RPM stayed hovering almost every time between 1500 and 2500. One time I slowly reved the engine to 4000, and it settled back to 3000 where it just stayed happily there. It was pretty bad, enough for me to get out of the car and listen to the engine rev hold at 3000. I got back in the car knowing theres a 'toyota' problem here, and tried to see what was the culprit. I found very quickly that pulling on the gas pedal with my hand would quickly let the engine back down to idle. So, idle up with slow pres sof the pedal; and the engine RPMs tended to hold with me off the throttle - then pull on the pedal with my hand and the engine drops back down to ~600 rpm. Wierd indeed. I could even repeat the entire problem with just one hand. I think the pedal is too tight where and there is not enough gap between rest at idle and very slight throttle. I want to think the problem happens more when the car is realy hot; in fact the pedal area in general felt very toasty during my testing from the general engine heat. I've only owned this car for 2 weeks as I bought it slightly used; but I've got a bad sinking feeling about this - to the point where if they cannot fix then it falls under my 30 day return policy. Tomorrow I plan to drive it a bit around to see if the problem returns, and then promptly take it in. I hope I can get it to rev and stay rev'd in the service line. I hope they can fix this stupid but important safety problem. I'll try not to leave the dealership empty handed. 2009 370z with 24,500 miles Last edited by Unclemeaty; 08-28-2010 at 12:32 AM. |
08-28-2010, 10:37 AM | #49 (permalink) |
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Update: Just got back from the dealership. I was able to replicate the pedal and engine rev problem as I described above. The dealer offered me a loaner car pronto after I said it looks like the car has Toyota syndrome. I literally got the car to stay at 3000 RPMs without touching the pedal in front of 2 service-intake personel. My z should be ready Monday due to customer backlog; unfortunately I'll be out of town until Thursday and will not be able to test anything fixed until then.
I'll update this thread with my/their findings when I hear about them. |
08-28-2010, 12:14 PM | #50 (permalink) |
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unclemeaty,
At least the dealership cared enough to help. I have been talking with Nissan proper. Their regional "troubleshooter" guy had my dealership install a data recorder in my car last week since the problem is so erratic. It is supposed to start recording everything the computer knows about the car whenever the engine hits 5,500 RPM. So, now it is just a waiting game for me. Interestingly enough, this started as my engine revving unabated until I pulled on the gas pedal. The day the dealership installed the data recorder, it was doing exactly what DannyGT described...holding an RPM and continuing to pull the car when you let off the gas. If I pushed the clutch in, the engine would peg at 2,000 RPM. After the hell Toyota went through because of a bunch of stupid drivers, you would think Nissan would be replacing things left and right in my car after the service manager and a technician witnessed the problem first-hand...the technician witnessed it while driving my car. I guess they have faith that I know to push the clutch in or turn the car off instead of calling 911 and killing my family. Still, I'm quite annoyed by their generally anemic response to this. |
09-01-2010, 08:58 PM | #52 (permalink) |
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Im picking up me z on Friday, but I already have the dealerships response. They are replacing the accelerator sensor and pedal; likely one in the same. Ill know this weekend if the problem is hopefully gone. The parts are on backorder and I am also out of town.
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09-03-2010, 05:05 PM | #54 (permalink) | |
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09-03-2010, 05:06 PM | #55 (permalink) |
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If I could reproduce the problem at will, I would. Seriously. Problem is, the car is driving like a dream right now and it could be three months from now or tomorrow before the problem occurs again.
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09-03-2010, 09:50 PM | #56 (permalink) |
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My car is going to be in the shop for another 8 days - the accelerator pedal is on world-wide backorder. In the meantime I've got a loaner from the dealer, but its no z. I'll now know by 9/10 what the parts or story is all about.
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09-10-2010, 01:21 PM | #57 (permalink) |
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Just got the car back. Only a bit of time will officially tell the tale, but I can say two things. One, I have diagnosis from the service tech. Two, the new pedal seems to have about a 1/16 to 1/8 inch of 'slack' before the engine starts to lift off idle.
The diagnosis on the SERVICE TICKET was pretty straight forward and informative. Quoted from service ticket: "THROTTLE IS STICKING MEASURED .9 VOLTS OUT OF APP SENSOR DURRING INCIDENT. NORMAL VOLTAGE IS .75 VOLTS. LIFTED ACCELERATOR PEDAL AND VOLTAGE DROPPED TO .75 VOLS AND IDLE SPEED DROPPED FROM 2000 RPMS TO 800 RPMS. REPLACED THROTTLE PEDAL AND PERFORMED CLOSED THROTTLE POSITION LEARN AND IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARN." Pedal part number (I think): 1 18002-1NC0A LEVER COMP <-FYI I think this part is different for models with touring package. So perhaps if a dealer is giving you heck over this problem; maybe try a digital volt meter. |
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