Originally Posted by wavehogger I second that statement! It needs a cooler to run at 100% performance. The ECU starts cutting power well before the 260 rev limiter kicks in.
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05-09-2010, 08:20 AM | #76 (permalink) | |
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And of course this isn't the only reason the power drops. I know the basics about how hot air effects combustion and that cooler are creates a denser burn putting more oxygen into the cylinder when it explodes. So yes, there will be a loss of power when the air gets hotter and hotter which happens even if the external air is cool since it has to travel through the intakes, manifold etc. And since the engine is getting hot inside the air will get hotter as it passes through and arrives in the cylinder to be burned. So of course all engines, even carbureted, which I've had many, will have some power loss when everything starts getting hot. And in carbureted motors you'll get detonation if it gets too hot and can blow stuff up easier because you don't have an ECU to say hold up buddy you're about to do some damage. But all this just happens to be compounded with modern days cars whose temps rise fast when they are smaller engines revving higher to create power more efficiently, especially if they are forced induction. So the Z is suffering from both normal power heat loss and the ECU cutting back power. I'm not sure if my original statement was taken out of context without this information meaning the car can't perform at 100% all the time without a cooler. I mean it won't perform at 100% when the temps are up around 240-250 because of multiple reasons, one being the ECU and the other the laws of physics. So basically, to maintain the most possible HP from the Z an oil cooler will delay the above two processes when the heat is starting to build up giving you a bit more power, until you finally heat soak the entire system. That is what I meant by running at 100% performance for the given conditions that will present themselves. |
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05-09-2010, 05:10 PM | #77 (permalink) |
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Design question here,..but I dont see why they just dont make the AN fitting or pressed part longer in length so as to add more strength or areas of contact (crimp) so that there is less chance of bursting?
Anyways,..I got lines with fittings made by Mike,..they look really good too. But since I just did my first oil change at 1500 miles, Im going to do regular 3000mile oil changes till there is more certainty with this problem... |
05-11-2010, 06:13 PM | #80 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the info but wanted to see what sort of temps people are getting without and with the the oil cooler and track temps of the oil temp. What was the out door temp at the time of the measurement was taken .
Last edited by R390; 05-11-2010 at 06:31 PM. |
05-12-2010, 12:23 PM | #81 (permalink) |
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There's plenty of that information, both in my thread and numerous others, if you take the time to search (and read).. Figure roughly a 20-25 degree reduction in most conditions with a standard sized cooler
Last edited by Modshack; 05-12-2010 at 11:21 PM. |
05-12-2010, 09:04 PM | #82 (permalink) |
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without the oil cooler I'm seeing anywhere between 220-240+ even though its no hotter than 81 degrees outside. Furthermore I've burned about 1.5 quarts of Nissan Ester oil in the past 3000 miles. A few days ago I had her up to a short burst of 140+mph and I almost hit limp mode, just a small tick short. I agree you can feel the power loss as oil temps increase.
I ordered GTM's 25 row oil cooler yesterday, Sam called me earlier today and told me they were out of brackets so once that arrives in a few days they'll send it out so I'm guessing 2 weeks before it arrives. I'll be running the oil cooler with Motul 300V Power Racing. The internet moguls seem to be split on this oil, some say is runs cleaner, their exhaust tips showed no soot and 3000 miles later the oil was still clean. Others say that it shouldn't be used in anything not a race car. Motul says it's great for high reving engines and it's ester based so I think it'll go well. I'm going to try to get to the dyno as soon as I get my LTH's and I drive around a bit to let the ecu reset. I think Tony shipped out #12 this week and I'm #14, once those babies are on we'll see how she does. Right now she's all stock minus test pipes and body work.
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05-12-2010, 09:16 PM | #83 (permalink) |
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finally got my redline in so the cooler will be going back on friday and then off to the dyno saturday! i'll post up a new thread somewhere with my results.
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05-27-2010, 07:47 PM | #84 (permalink) |
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I spoke to a dude from Z1 motorsports via email and he said they are no longer offering Aeroquip socketless hoses because they had someone with a hose blown off and it caused an engine failure. Now I don't know the details such as how he had them attached, whether it be zip ties or worm clamps. But who makes a good oil cooler kit whose hoses won't blow off or cause a leak? It seems like there are quite a few failures on this forum.
What company can you trust? I don't want an engine failure and I'm sure nobody else does as well. |
05-27-2010, 11:50 PM | #85 (permalink) | |
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Frank |
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05-28-2010, 05:39 AM | #86 (permalink) |
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Yeah, I read all about how Sam backed his product. But that guy was lucky he had no engine damage because of the lost oil. My real worry is if an engine failure did occur, who would pay to get it fixed? I doubt GTM or the company who made the oil cooler kit would. I'm afraid that you would be out of luck and have to pay for it yourself.
It makes me a little skeptical, that's all. Not with GTM, but oil cooler kits overall. I need one to drive my Nismo aggressively but want one that won't fall apart either. |
05-28-2010, 12:20 PM | #87 (permalink) | |
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So these are the only options you have, buy one, make one, or don't get one lol. I think the best part about making one is you know what you have into it. what i mean is you know the quality of the product, and if it breaks you only have your self to blame. Good luck with what ever decision you make. If you buy one just stick to a rep-able company who has good products and customer service. Frank |
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05-28-2010, 01:34 PM | #89 (permalink) |
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I could be wrong happens more often then I like but on another forum I think one of those had hose failures also. I guess the point is when you mass produce something, sometimes you don't get the perfectly round apple but instead you get the oval one, or the one with the worm in the middle. Parts fail, even new ones, any time you buy aftermarket parts you sometimes take the risk of something going bad. All you can do is do some research on companies and people who have the mod and try to lower the odd of it happening to you.
Frank |
05-28-2010, 01:42 PM | #90 (permalink) |
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Maybe this will help sum it up. GTM's oil cooler setup had faulty lines, of course they stepped up and addressed the issue. I just installed their oil cooler last week, sorry I haven't had a chance to update my thread with pictures hopefully this weekend. The new lines are made by the same manufacturer as the core, namely Setrab. All I can say is that when I unpacked everything the lines are the first thing I went after and they are DIESEL! They will not explode, the workmanship and quality of the piece is 10/10. This leads me to believe that any subsequent explosion in an application such as mine would be by faulty install.
Get a cooler, the Z needs it, after getting the big GTM cooler I haven't seen 220 . You're lines won't explode and it goes a long way toward maintaining engine life.
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