Dyno Results
 

Well the Z was dynoed today and I have to say that I'm disappointed. I havent studied each and every dyno result from everyone on this sight but I do feel that mine are quite low.

With that being said, its weird because my car totally runs its *** off. It really pulls like crazy and I could not be happier with its performance. I love the car.

My car is an 09 Base 6MT with about 5xxx.xx miles. Mods are K&N drop ins and ARK Exhaust.

All pulls were in 5th gear.

1st Run - 256.02 - 232.09
2nd Run - 275.29 - 235.81
3rd Run - 252.88 - 233.85

The runs were done on a Dynojet. Temp - 56 degrees

I will post the graphs later on.

Thoughts/comments?

Dam, why was there such a huge jump in run 2...then it died down again.

1st run was done at 8:55, 2nd at 9:02 and 3rd at 9:05. She was HOT after that third run!

That is a big difference between the 1st/3rd and 2nd run. Maybe not as accurate as you might think. There could be hope that your Z makes more power!

Im no dyno expert by any means. Does a dyno need to be warmed up? I was the first of 5 cars done today.

Why 5th gear?

no, that should not affect the dyno measurments. the big jump in power between the pulls is odd though... it is possible that the dyno operator changed some parameters between the pulls.

is 5th gear 1:1 in these cars? i know that in my '03 cobra, all dyno pulls were done in 4th...

From threads I searched 5th gear is the 1:1. It is possible the operator changed some things. I can understand if it were a few hp/tq off. The other cars dynoed had very minimal if any changes through runs. A Shelby GT500 (supercharged and could heatsoak) made 532/537 and 534/534. He would definitely suffer more from heat than the Z.

Are you 100% sure all 3 runs were done in 5th?

100% sure.

hmm... sounds a bit fishy, while all dynos will read differently, they shouldnt differ that much. I've never seen a Z on this board dyno less than 260 on a dynojet in stock form, with your exhaust you should be dynoing much higher, closer to 280-290. Yours look like mustang dyno numbers.

Definitely fishy.

That is weird jump in the runs. Do the american version of the Z not have a govner? i couldnt dyno my car in 5th cuz it would have hit it. So i had to dyno in 4th.

Supposedly our 5th gear gives us the best numbers, i wouldnt know though, i've just dynoed in 4th. Still have yet to dyno with all my mods.

not all dynojets are inertia types they do make load cell dyno's they shop by my house has one a nice awd version at that. It would be stupid for dynojet to only make one model of dyno and never change anything, we really need to describe the dyno's we run on better. the dynojet at beyond redline here in town is one of the lowest reading dyno's i have ever seen.

I think the dyno operator definitely made an error. I was at a dyno event yesterday and while the cars continued to pull the dyno test window would close early on my runs. I believe that may have happened here, the test window will close but the car will continue pulling. I'm dynoing on a dynojet myself today, I'll have to keep a hawk eye on the operator.

Will most likely take it to another place in a month or so.

My theory is that you got there with a hot car, threw it on the dyno and got a low first run. Then you let it cool down and it made EXACTLY the power it is supposed to make to the wheels on a dynojet on your second run. Then you did another run after when the car was still heatsoaked.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the car was not allowed to cool down before run one or before run three?

Don't be disappointed by your results, a lot has to do with the gear you ran and dyno calibrations. Why would you run 5th anyway?

I would have expected about 280-285 with your mods, but 275 is close....dyno numbers mean nothing without baseline numbers anyway....

5th would trip the max speed, therefore would truncate your HP rating...

5th gear is the 1:1 ratio. Some dynos, however, can't take the maximum speed in 5th, so it has to be done in 4th.

Car was parked in the lot and set for about 20 minutes before the first run. Started car, entered bay, shut car down, strapped down and completed the first run.

Shut car off for maybe a few minutes and completed second run. Waited maybe a minute and did the third run.

A GT500 Mustang dynoed there and had a killer top speed on his run. Not really sure what gear he was in though.

SAE or actual numbers? Also, did you reset your ECU prior to the dyno? Also, you should probably dyno in 4th. Was this a dyno jet or mustang dyno?

Could be any number of things honestly...if the room was hot your car will pull timing and that will KILL your numbers. Of course, did you make sure that the stability control was turned off? Better yet...disabled completely? Last question...what fuel were you running?

I agree 100% with this, you have to let the car cool for a good bit OR ice the motor down. There are so many variables when you dyno a car...what gap are your plugs, what fuel are you running, what was the timing, humidity, air temp, gear ratio, mods (along with settings) etc...etc...

Don't be disappointed and keep in mind that you will get different numbers on different dynos as well. As long as the car feels strong on the road that's all that matters. Personally, I liked to back up dyno numbers with timed pulls at the track. So many different things could have taken place so don't even begin to sweat it unless you covered everything...and it sounds like you had few things that could have been working against you. (big one being HEAT)

Guys, I was on a dynojet yesterday, we're supposed to dyno in the gear closest to 1:1 hence that's 5th gear. I came real close to the top speed limiter, just shy of it actually and she went all the way to 7500...I honestly think the operator didn't know what he was doing.

I guess the #'s are SAE. No reset of the ECU. It was on a Dynojet. Stability control was shut off as well. Fuel is Sunoco Ultra 93.

So here is a question for you more experienced guys. Our car obviously gets very hot and heatsoaked. Would a small IC be benificial to our NA car? I was thinking that the Stillen water to air IC would be a good idea if it wouldnt cost too much and could be adapted easily to the car.

Modshack's vent mod is great for reducing intake air temperatures.

Yes I plan on doing that mod soon, but I was wondering would something like Stillens IC drop intake temps enough to make HP or would the extra weight negate the drop in temps? Lets say with the Stillen IC we could drop the intake temps to 30 degrees lower than ambient (is that even possible?) how much HP would you gain? If weight would negate gains would a finned round tube just before the MAF be benificial? basically a barrel IC for the intake. Like if the G3s had a section of their piping finned (inside and outside) just before the MAF.

Just some thoughts that Im sure have been thought of before and shot down.

It's not just intake temp its also humidity so you may want to factor that in. I don't think you'll need an all out IC, an oil cooler with a spacer should suffice. Heat soak is a problem on all cars but from my results my dyno #'s actually went up on each run with a 5 min cool down between the 2nd and 3rd run.

Guys, I'm serious on this DYNO IN 5TH you shouldn't hit the speed limiter trust me on this, I'll scan the dyno graph when I go home later this week.

Im not sure what you mean by this? Are you saying use it as a small IC for the intake?

You dont have to dyno in 5th....most people don't....

I don't know why you wouldn't, its the most accurate, you always shoot for that 1:1 on a dyno

what I meant was an oil cooler with a thermostat plate will be more useful than an IC in N/A applications.

Most times/places I've dynoed do 3rd or 4th. You don't need to run the car to 150mph on the dyno to get an accurate number. Did a shop tell you that you need to run the car in 5th or something?

You can calibrate the dyno for each gear before doing the runs. Its really easy...

Your actual numbers will most likely be a bit higher. Temp/humidity play an important role, on a humid day the air will affect your numbers.

Also, prior to the dyno run you should reset your ECU so that your car adjusts to the most efficient setting during the pull. Also, did you park the car with the hood up? I take it you did not ice down at all? 20 minutes is not enough to let the motor cool down, usually at least an hour is needed. Make sure (if possible) that a fan is placed on the front of the car and leave the hood up during the dyno as well, you don't want all that heat trapped during your run since you are not moving where on the road the wind offers some cooling.

I agree...no need to do a 5th gear pull. 3rd or 4th should be fine unless the gearing is way off in either one.

what gear for the 7AT is best?

I read in threads here that 5th gear was the 1:1 gear and that was the way to go. Will definitely do 4th gear next time.

just throwing this out there for Zsteve an intercooler on an NA car is totally useless and don't even try it unless you use charge cooling on it such as a co2 bar or ice in the case of a water to air and even then it is going to be me much more trouble than its worth. It can only lower your intake temps down to ambient at best and for refference a stillen gen 3 intake does that already as temps through it are only about 6 degrees above ambient sitting at idle with no air moving into the bumper (worst case).