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Originally Posted by NYBladeZ It's not just intake temp its also humidity so you may want to factor that in. I don't think you'll need an all out IC, an

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Old 03-23-2010, 12:01 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYBladeZ View Post
It's not just intake temp its also humidity so you may want to factor that in. I don't think you'll need an all out IC, an oil cooler with a spacer should suffice. Heat soak is a problem on all cars but from my results my dyno #'s actually went up on each run with a 5 min cool down between the 2nd and 3rd run.

Guys, I'm serious on this DYNO IN 5TH you shouldn't hit the speed limiter trust me on this, I'll scan the dyno graph when I go home later this week.
Im not sure what you mean by this? Are you saying use it as a small IC for the intake?
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:02 AM   #32 (permalink)
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You dont have to dyno in 5th....most people don't....
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:38 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I don't know why you wouldn't, its the most accurate, you always shoot for that 1:1 on a dyno
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:39 AM   #34 (permalink)
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what I meant was an oil cooler with a thermostat plate will be more useful than an IC in N/A applications.
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:56 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Most times/places I've dynoed do 3rd or 4th. You don't need to run the car to 150mph on the dyno to get an accurate number. Did a shop tell you that you need to run the car in 5th or something?

You can calibrate the dyno for each gear before doing the runs. Its really easy...
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:04 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TonyBPD View Post
I guess the #'s are SAE. No reset of the ECU. It was on a Dynojet. Stability control was shut off as well. Fuel is Sunoco Ultra 93.
Your actual numbers will most likely be a bit higher. Temp/humidity play an important role, on a humid day the air will affect your numbers.

Also, prior to the dyno run you should reset your ECU so that your car adjusts to the most efficient setting during the pull. Also, did you park the car with the hood up? I take it you did not ice down at all? 20 minutes is not enough to let the motor cool down, usually at least an hour is needed. Make sure (if possible) that a fan is placed on the front of the car and leave the hood up during the dyno as well, you don't want all that heat trapped during your run since you are not moving where on the road the wind offers some cooling.
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:05 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCZ View Post
Most times/places I've dynoed do 3rd or 4th. You don't need to run the car to 150mph on the dyno to get an accurate number. Did a shop tell you that you need to run the car in 5th or something?

You can calibrate the dyno for each gear before doing the runs. Its really easy...
I agree...no need to do a 5th gear pull. 3rd or 4th should be fine unless the gearing is way off in either one.
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:46 AM   #38 (permalink)
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what gear for the 7AT is best?
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:22 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I read in threads here that 5th gear was the 1:1 gear and that was the way to go. Will definitely do 4th gear next time.
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Old 03-24-2010, 05:09 AM   #40 (permalink)
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just throwing this out there for Zsteve an intercooler on an NA car is totally useless and don't even try it unless you use charge cooling on it such as a co2 bar or ice in the case of a water to air and even then it is going to be me much more trouble than its worth. It can only lower your intake temps down to ambient at best and for refference a stillen gen 3 intake does that already as temps through it are only about 6 degrees above ambient sitting at idle with no air moving into the bumper (worst case).
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