How to completely disable the VDC

roplusbee · 01-16-2014, 12:17 AM

Has anyone attempted to disable ETC in the ECM? I was told that it disables the cruise, SRM, and VDC. Not sure about ABLS though. I want to give it a shot, but Omar @ UPREV told me that it will make the car undrivable.............

synolimit · 01-16-2014, 12:52 AM

Why would you want to disable all that?

1slow370 · 01-16-2014, 12:56 AM

You want to disable throttle control? going to cable throttles? If not they won't open so yeah i would say that would be undriveable.

wstar · 01-16-2014, 09:47 AM

I think you'd still need to pull the yaw sensor to disable some things (like ABLS), but I don't think ETC-Off in the ROM would be "undriveable" on a 6MT. It would probably be perfect for a track car, if you're willing to give up SRM.

Mitco39 · 01-16-2014, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

I think you'd still need to pull the yaw sensor to disable some things (like ABLS), but I don't think ETC-Off in the ROM would be "undriveable" on a 6MT. It would probably be perfect for a track car, if you're willing to give up SRM.

Wstar, so if im correct in reading this just unplugging the yaw sensor and leaving it disconnected will disable both the VDC and ABLS without any ill effects? I am running a racelogic system and last year would just hit the button every time I started the car to turn off the VDC, but I would also like to get rid of the ABLS and let the Racelogic do its job.

Thanks

wstar · 01-16-2014, 10:55 AM

^ Correct. Unplugging the yaw sensor kills VDC+TCS+ABLS (and you get a permanent VDC OFF / Slip light on the dash, as it thinks the system has failed, which it has).

Supposedly it leaves basic ABS working fine (since it doesn't light up any brake/ABS lights on the dash), but it's hard for me to independently confirm that - something about my brake hardware/pad setup (or my mis-wired brain that refuses to let me try to flatspot tires?) makes it very hard for me to trigger and/or feel ABS on my car in the first place.

Z&I · 01-16-2014, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

Wstar, so if im correct in reading this just unplugging the yaw sensor and leaving it disconnected will disable both the VDC and ABLS without any ill effects? I am running a racelogic system and last year would just hit the button every time I started the car to turn off the VDC, but I would also like to get rid of the ABLS and let the Racelogic do its job.

Thanks

I'm in the same boat as you ...
Want to lose the VDC and the ABLS and allow the Race Logic to do it's thing...
Am also setting the car up for the 1/4 mile.

The word here from the drag racers is that you need to pull the Brake/Stop Lamp fuse (10Amp) located in the drivers side kick panel.
(Unplugging the Bosch Modulater/ Yaw Sensor doesn't seem to do it all ???).
Haven't tried that solution personally yet

Pulling the fuse = NO more VDC and NO more ABLS.
The downside tho' is NO more BRAKE LIGHTS.

Fine for the drag strip - but definitely not for everyday driving or the track.

Working on a solution to islolate the brake lights and power the circuit from a different source if possible.
This way I will be able to lose VDC/ABLS and keep the Brake Lights.
Hope I find a way to do that.

I like the Race Logic --- It is fantastic for everyday spirited driving --- but find it might not be all that suitable for drag racing.

Still dialing it in tho' ... gotta play with some more with the advanced settings but am running into some conflicts with the launch and min RPM features.

Car is in the shop now for some power upgrades , so I won't be able to tweak it for a few weeks.

Bob

Jordo! · 01-16-2014, 11:09 AM

Actually, it seems to me that leaving the yaw and ABLS is probably strictly for off road (and experts) anyway...

I'm surprised there's no way to wire a bypass on the brake lights so they can be actuated as normal, but do not relay so back to the ECU (or whatever sensor is monitoring that). Seems like that would be easiest solution for full on hooning/full track day control...

wstar · 01-16-2014, 11:10 AM

If you're going to do all that, just pull the yaw sensor instead of the fuse + rewiring. Or put a switch on the power to the yaw sensor.

Mitco39 · 01-16-2014, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z&I

I'm in the same boat as you ...
Want to lose the VDC and the ABLS and allow the Race Logic to do it's thing...
Am also setting the car up for the 1/4 mile.

The word here from the drag racers is that you need to pull the Brake/Stop Lamp fuse (10Amp) located in the drivers side kick panel.
(Unplugging the Bosch Modulater/ Yaw Sensor doesn't seem to do it all ???).
Haven't tried that solution personally yet

Pulling the fuse = NO more VDC and NO more ABLS.
The downside tho' is NO more BRAKE LIGHTS.

Fine for the drag strip - but definitely not for everyday driving or the track.

Working on a solution to islolate the brake lights and power the circuit from a different source if possible.
This way I will be able to lose VDC/ABLS and keep the Brake Lights.
Hope I find a way to do that.

I like the Race Logic --- It is fantastic for everyday spirited driving --- but find it might not be all that suitable for drag racing.

Still dialing it in tho' ... gotta play with some more with the advanced settings but am running into some conflicts with the launch and min RPM features.

Car is in the shop now for some power upgrades , so I won't be able to tweak it for a few weeks.

Bob

Guys are pulling the brake lamp fuse to be able to do burn outs as to the best of my knowledge this is the only advantage in doing so. Currently the car will not let you roast the tires with your foot on the brake so you can only do a rolling burnout. I could look through the FSM and probably come up with a way for you do fool the computer and bypass it for your brake lights. That or just hook up a switch to remove power to the fuse all together and just remember to flip it on when your done at the track.

Also I know what you mean about the racelogic, it is very finicky to get it to launch right. There are a lot of adjustments that can be made in the software however and im confident that with enough time playing with them you will be able to get the car to launch consistently. I personally only have one track day on it myself so mine is not dialed in nearly what it could be, but for everyday driving on the road it works amazingly.

Jordo! · 01-16-2014, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

If you're going to do all that, just pull the yaw sensor instead of the fuse + rewiring. Or put a switch on the power to the yaw sensor.

WIll that also allow brake stand burn outs? If so, I might add that to my diminishing list of projects?

wstar · 01-16-2014, 11:21 AM

I have no idea if it will let you burn tires with the brakes on, that's not something I ever have a desire to do on my car (waste of tire and brake pad material!). I suspect the brake fuse trick also disables ABS (in addition to whatever else), and it might be that you can't burn out with the brakes on if ABS is functioning. No idea.

I do clean/heat my tires a bit by lightly burning them with the throttle as I'm pulling out of the hot pit usually, and lacking a yaw sensor the car never interferes (and it slips them fast enough that I get very little forward momentum from it). But not with the brake pedal down.

Z&I · 01-16-2014, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

Guys are pulling the brake lamp fuse to be able to do burn outs as to the best of my knowledge this is the only advantage in doing so. Currently the car will not let you roast the tires with your foot on the brake so you can only do a rolling burnout. I could look through the FSM and probably come up with a way for you do fool the computer and bypass it for your brake lights. That or just hook up a switch to remove power to the fuse all together and just remember to flip it on when your done at the track.

Also I know what you mean about the racelogic, it is very finicky to get it to launch right. There are a lot of adjustments that can be made in the software however and im confident that with enough time playing with them you will be able to get the car to launch consistently. I personally only have one track day on it myself so mine is not dialed in nearly what it could be, but for everyday driving on the road it works amazingly.

Great Feedbacks and Inputs !

The ABLS won't let you do a standing/brake burnout.

I am having a line lock installed so I can do a proper burn out with the M/T drag radials.

Need to get those tires toasty to increase the available traction.
The Race Logic and the M/T's hooked the car up much better in 2nd and lowered my ET by .6 seconds.

Wasn't able to do the burn out tho because of the ABLS -therefore it didn't improve my 60' time at all...
The available traction just wasn't there and when the Race Logic kicked in just off the line the car bogged and lost momentum.
My overall ET would have even better with a quicker 60'

Won't miss the ABLS at all since you can still get the car tail end happy even with it on.

Won't miss the VDC either since the Race Logic keeps the car straight and narrow all by itself.

Am currently having a switch/relay installed to disconnect the circuit and at the same time enable the line lock on track days.

If you can find a work around for the Brake Lights that would be the PERFECT solution!

Bob

Felix 808 · 01-16-2014, 12:20 PM

For me, I'm just wiring it with a protected toggle interupting the green power wire feeding the Yaw sensor from connector 4 as per the manual. On when I want it off when I don't

1slow370 · 01-16-2014, 12:24 PM

its not the abls that wont let you do a burnout thats the ecu, if it recieves a brake and gas input at the same time it limits throttle to 10%. It's also known as anti runaway toyota mode. pulling the brake fuse completely kills abs you will have no antilock function, the brake light wire is what tells the ecu when you hit the brakes, so if you pull the fuse it has no way of knowing you are depressing the brakes so the entire abs system is down. Also I am positive that a momentary power interupt in the yaw sensors line is all that is required. for those with a switch try it out start the car, flip your yaw switch till the lights go out, then flip it back on your tcs will still be dead.

01-16-2014, 12:17 AM	#31 (permalink)
roplusbee A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 2,360 Drives: 2007 350Z NISMO Rep Power: 23	Has anyone attempted to disable ETC in the ECM? I was told that it disables the cruise, SRM, and VDC. Not sure about ABLS though. I want to give it a shot, but Omar @ UPREV told me that it will make the car undrivable............. __________________ 2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift \| UPREV \| F.I. \| Greddy \| Competition Clutch \| Injector Dynamics \| Aeromotive \| Pioneer \| JL

01-16-2014, 12:52 AM	#32 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Why would you want to disable all that? __________________ 13 370z-

01-16-2014, 12:56 AM	#33 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	You want to disable throttle control? going to cable throttles? If not they won't open so yeah i would say that would be undriveable. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

01-16-2014, 09:47 AM	#34 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	I think you'd still need to pull the yaw sensor to disable some things (like ABLS), but I don't think ETC-Off in the ROM would be "undriveable" on a 6MT. It would probably be perfect for a track car, if you're willing to give up SRM. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-16-2014, 10:55 AM	#36 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	^ Correct. Unplugging the yaw sensor kills VDC+TCS+ABLS (and you get a permanent VDC OFF / Slip light on the dash, as it thinks the system has failed, which it has). Supposedly it leaves basic ABS working fine (since it doesn't light up any brake/ABS lights on the dash), but it's hard for me to independently confirm that - something about my brake hardware/pad setup (or my mis-wired brain that refuses to let me try to flatspot tires?) makes it very hard for me to trigger and/or feel ABS on my car in the first place. Mitco39 likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-16-2014, 11:09 AM	#38 (permalink)
Jordo! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: nirvana Posts: 6,394 Drives: 2023 NATM Rep Power: 418	Actually, it seems to me that leaving the yaw and ABLS is probably strictly for off road (and experts) anyway... I'm surprised there's no way to wire a bypass on the brake lights so they can be actuated as normal, but do not relay so back to the ECU (or whatever sensor is monitoring that). Seems like that would be easiest solution for full on hooning/full track day control... __________________ Enjoy it. Destroy it.

01-16-2014, 11:10 AM	#39 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	If you're going to do all that, just pull the yaw sensor instead of the fuse + rewiring. Or put a switch on the power to the yaw sensor. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-16-2014, 11:21 AM	#42 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	I have no idea if it will let you burn tires with the brakes on, that's not something I ever have a desire to do on my car (waste of tire and brake pad material!). I suspect the brake fuse trick also disables ABS (in addition to whatever else), and it might be that you can't burn out with the brakes on if ABS is functioning. No idea. I do clean/heat my tires a bit by lightly burning them with the throttle as I'm pulling out of the hot pit usually, and lacking a yaw sensor the car never interferes (and it slips them fast enough that I get very little forward momentum from it). But not with the brake pedal down. Felix 808 likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-16-2014, 12:20 PM	#44 (permalink)
Felix 808 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Camarillo, CA Posts: 1,063 Drives: 2011 PW/Grey T/S 7AT Rep Power: 2807	For me, I'm just wiring it with a protected toggle interupting the green power wire feeding the Yaw sensor from connector 4 as per the manual. On when I want it off when I don't __________________ Semper Fi Μολὼν λαβέ

01-16-2014, 12:24 PM	#45 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	its not the abls that wont let you do a burnout thats the ecu, if it recieves a brake and gas input at the same time it limits throttle to 10%. It's also known as anti runaway toyota mode. pulling the brake fuse completely kills abs you will have no antilock function, the brake light wire is what tells the ecu when you hit the brakes, so if you pull the fuse it has no way of knowing you are depressing the brakes so the entire abs system is down. Also I am positive that a momentary power interupt in the yaw sensors line is all that is required. for those with a switch try it out start the car, flip your yaw switch till the lights go out, then flip it back on your tcs will still be dead. RBfastback likes this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

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