How to completely disable the VDC

Jordo! · 01-16-2014, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

If you're going to do all that, just pull the yaw sensor instead of the fuse + rewiring. Or put a switch on the power to the yaw sensor.

WIll that also allow brake stand burn outs? If so, I might add that to my diminishing list of projects?

wstar · 01-16-2014, 10:21 AM

I have no idea if it will let you burn tires with the brakes on, that's not something I ever have a desire to do on my car (waste of tire and brake pad material!). I suspect the brake fuse trick also disables ABS (in addition to whatever else), and it might be that you can't burn out with the brakes on if ABS is functioning. No idea.

I do clean/heat my tires a bit by lightly burning them with the throttle as I'm pulling out of the hot pit usually, and lacking a yaw sensor the car never interferes (and it slips them fast enough that I get very little forward momentum from it). But not with the brake pedal down.

1slow370 · 01-16-2014, 11:24 AM

its not the abls that wont let you do a burnout thats the ecu, if it recieves a brake and gas input at the same time it limits throttle to 10%. It's also known as anti runaway toyota mode. pulling the brake fuse completely kills abs you will have no antilock function, the brake light wire is what tells the ecu when you hit the brakes, so if you pull the fuse it has no way of knowing you are depressing the brakes so the entire abs system is down. Also I am positive that a momentary power interupt in the yaw sensors line is all that is required. for those with a switch try it out start the car, flip your yaw switch till the lights go out, then flip it back on your tcs will still be dead.

Felix 808 · 01-16-2014, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

I am positive that a momentary power interupt in the yaw sensors line is all that is required. for those with a switch try it out start the car, flip your yaw switch till the lights go out, then flip it back on your tcs will still be dead.

Hmm, that would seems about right when looking at it in a safety aspect. If the sensor was able to go in & out (it it became flakey) it could create unpridictable & unpleasent handling situations. I have not wired mine up, but I think you have it right in this thinking

Z&I · 01-16-2014, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

its not the abls that wont let you do a burnout thats the ecu, if it recieves a brake and gas input at the same time it limits throttle to 10%. It's also known as anti runaway toyota mode. pulling the brake fuse completely kills abs you will have no antilock function, the brake light wire is what tells the ecu when you hit the brakes, so if you pull the fuse it has no way of knowing you are depressing the brakes so the entire abs system is down. Also I am positive that a momentary power interupt in the yaw sensors line is all that is required. for those with a switch try it out start the car, flip your yaw switch till the lights go out, then flip it back on your tcs will still be dead.

Thanks ... I wasn't aware that pulling the fuse (or intercepting it) would kill the ABS ...

I was led to believe that the ABS was an independent function seperate from the ABLS and VDC.

If it isn't : then I need to rethink how to reconfigure my car.

I'm not doing a Brake and Gas burnout ... I'm using a Line Lock controlled by a momentary switch/relay to engage only the front brakes for the burnout.

Tried to do the Brake/Gas burnout - the throttle did get real weak and the rear brakes pulsed repeatedly.

Ideally I would like to be able to disable the VDC and ABLS and let the Race Logic alone control the traction for normal driving...still retaining the ABS and Brake Lights.

Is this configuration even possible with the 370?
It would be GREAT if it was...

In the early days it would be a simple wiring solution ... but with todays cars and computers ... eh ???? who knows what to expect !!!

Bob

wstar · 01-16-2014, 12:24 PM

Yeah not to mention pretty much every failure mode on this car that's documented requires a restart (shut off car and turn ignition back on) to clear it, so it would make sense that the yaw fault does too.

I do wish there was a way to get rid of the brake/throttle interlock without losing ABS entirely.

Mitco39 · 01-16-2014, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Yeah not to mention pretty much every failure mode on this car that's documented requires a restart (shut off car and turn ignition back on) to clear it, so it would make sense that the yaw fault does too.

I do wish there was a way to get rid of the brake/throttle interlock without losing ABS entirely.

Maybe ECUTEK will have this feature? I would imagine its just a simple programming change.

Z&I · 01-16-2014, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Yeah not to mention pretty much every failure mode on this car that's documented requires a restart (shut off car and turn ignition back on) to clear it, so it would make sense that the yaw fault does too.

I do wish there was a way to get rid of the brake/throttle interlock without losing ABS entirely.

I do believe that the UpRev tune (which I have) has a toggle in their software to disable the brake/throttle interlock ...
Contacted them directly and they said that toggling off this interlock will cause the car to respond 'almost' like pulling the fuse, but weren't any more specific than that.

I was led to believe that the ABS is independant of the ABLS and is never turned off.

Anybody know for sure ???

Yet another possibility emerges !!!

We Will get to the bottom of this ...

Bob

wstar · 01-16-2014, 12:25 PM

BTW, "SB" is Sky Blue (weird naming).

wstar · 01-16-2014, 12:40 PM

That pin 1F looks easy to find on the fuse block. I think this weekend I might cut that and run it to a dash panel switch for ABS ON/OFF, then I can experiment with the difference switching it on for some sessions and off for others. I don't drag race, but I am trying to learn to left-foot-brake to ease my brake/throttle transitions. The downside is no ABS to protect me from flat-spotting tires, but the upside would be not having the throttle limiter interfering just because I still have some light left-foot pressure on the brake pedal.

DrivenSoul · 01-17-2014, 01:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

That pin 1F looks easy to find on the fuse block. I think this weekend I might cut that and run it to a dash panel switch for ABS ON/OFF, then I can experiment with the difference switching it on for some sessions and off for others. I don't drag race, but I am trying to learn to left-foot-brake to ease my brake/throttle transitions. The downside is no ABS to protect me from flat-spotting tires, but the upside would be not having the throttle limiter interfering just because I still have some light left-foot pressure on the brake pedal.

I don't think it should be too bad. You should get the hang of it without locking up too much. I've driven my Honda Fit with no ABS for over 3 years and now I feel awkward braking hard with ABS, not used to being able to just slam on it and let the ABS do the work lol

Mitco39 · 01-17-2014, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Not mine. VDC off turns on the VDC light. I can do a burn out, drift, etc in a parking lot or around a corner. No idea about high speed corner exit type things though.

Yaw off is the exact same. It turns on the TCS light only. I can drift, burn out etc.

To me so far both do the same thing and both off the same time feels no different.

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Where the hell did you get that from? Point out to me where those words were written by me.

See the bolded part of your message.

synolimit · 01-17-2014, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

See the bolded part of your message.

Yeah, don't see standing or brake.

wstar · 01-16-2014, 02:18 PM

To clear up some confusion in the past two posts:

VDC and ABLS are sub-functions of the ABS controller. Disconnecting the Yaw sensor kills VDC and ABLS, but not ABS. Pulling the brake light fuse kills the brake lights and also kills power to the whole ABS controller, killing VDC, ABLS, and ABS. Cutting the Sky Blue wire to pin 1F on the fuse box would also kill the ABS controller (dead ABS, ABLS, VDC), but not the brake lights.

Z&I · 01-16-2014, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

To clear up some confusion in the past two posts:

VDC and ABLS are sub-functions of the ABS controller. Disconnecting the Yaw sensor kills VDC and ABLS, but not ABS. Pulling the brake light fuse kills the brake lights and also kills power to the whole ABS controller, killing VDC, ABLS, and ABS. Cutting the Sky Blue wire to pin 1F on the fuse box would also kill the ABS controller (dead ABS, ABLS, VDC), but not the brake lights.

So it sounds like all I need to do is intercept the Yaw Sensor only...

Definitely kills the VDC and ABLS but not the ABS ? ... both warning lights are then illuminated to confirm ?
Which wire would you recommend for the proposed surgery ?

OR ... Intercept the Sky Bue wire to pin 1F at the Fuse Box on drivers side kickplate?

Decisions Decisions - I think you just may have hit on the solution for me

Need to check back with the shop to find out how the Race Logic fits in to the equation.
Still need that to work ...

Thanks !
Bob

01-16-2014, 10:21 AM	#2 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	I have no idea if it will let you burn tires with the brakes on, that's not something I ever have a desire to do on my car (waste of tire and brake pad material!). I suspect the brake fuse trick also disables ABS (in addition to whatever else), and it might be that you can't burn out with the brakes on if ABS is functioning. No idea. I do clean/heat my tires a bit by lightly burning them with the throttle as I'm pulling out of the hot pit usually, and lacking a yaw sensor the car never interferes (and it slips them fast enough that I get very little forward momentum from it). But not with the brake pedal down. Felix 808 likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-16-2014, 11:24 AM	#3 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	its not the abls that wont let you do a burnout thats the ecu, if it recieves a brake and gas input at the same time it limits throttle to 10%. It's also known as anti runaway toyota mode. pulling the brake fuse completely kills abs you will have no antilock function, the brake light wire is what tells the ecu when you hit the brakes, so if you pull the fuse it has no way of knowing you are depressing the brakes so the entire abs system is down. Also I am positive that a momentary power interupt in the yaw sensors line is all that is required. for those with a switch try it out start the car, flip your yaw switch till the lights go out, then flip it back on your tcs will still be dead. RBfastback likes this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

01-16-2014, 12:24 PM	#6 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Yeah not to mention pretty much every failure mode on this car that's documented requires a restart (shut off car and turn ignition back on) to clear it, so it would make sense that the yaw fault does too. I do wish there was a way to get rid of the brake/throttle interlock without losing ABS entirely. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-16-2014, 12:25 PM	#9 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	BTW, "SB" is Sky Blue (weird naming). Mitco39 likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-16-2014, 12:40 PM	#10 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	That pin 1F looks easy to find on the fuse block. I think this weekend I might cut that and run it to a dash panel switch for ABS ON/OFF, then I can experiment with the difference switching it on for some sessions and off for others. I don't drag race, but I am trying to learn to left-foot-brake to ease my brake/throttle transitions. The downside is no ABS to protect me from flat-spotting tires, but the upside would be not having the throttle limiter interfering just because I still have some light left-foot pressure on the brake pedal. dimitarm likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-16-2014, 02:18 PM	#14 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	To clear up some confusion in the past two posts: VDC and ABLS are sub-functions of the ABS controller. Disconnecting the Yaw sensor kills VDC and ABLS, but not ABS. Pulling the brake light fuse kills the brake lights and also kills power to the whole ABS controller, killing VDC, ABLS, and ABS. Cutting the Sky Blue wire to pin 1F on the fuse box would also kill the ABS controller (dead ABS, ABLS, VDC), but not the brake lights. Z&I likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

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