Dirty gritty drained oil when I did the oil change today

ZForce · 03-12-2010, 07:10 PM

Get a used oil analysis (UOA) from a reputable place i.e. Dyson or Blackstone.

With your pics I would suggest Dyson. Dyson = >$$ although Terry Dyson will break down the UOA in more detail and provide a more in depth assistance to correct the issue.

dyson ANALYSIS

Check your dipstick weekly for oil consumption and make notes.

dlmartin81 · 03-12-2010, 07:25 PM

I know but the problem is I did two oil changes in one afternoon, mine and my wife's. And mine was last. So what's in the oil pan is mixed.

semtex · 03-12-2010, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlmartin81

Semtex -- did you hear back form your mechanic?

Not yet.

LaSeeno · 03-12-2010, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlmartin81

I know but the problem is I did two oil changes in one afternoon, mine and my wife's. And mine was last. So what's in the oil pan is mixed.

Just the picture of the oil leaking out of the pan is bad enough. Put some miles on the car and drain it again or take it to the dealer. I wouldn't wait for 3k miles though. Like, by the end of next week take it in.

tbonesteak · 03-13-2010, 06:19 AM

my mentality would be that if that much flakes came out, my engine is toast anyway. i want my case to be as strong as possible. therefore, i am going to run the oil for 3k miles for it to receive the full effect of the situation, then take it to the dealer with that sample. best case: the engine is fine and you can move on with your life. worst case: the sample has proven that the engine is bad and you get a new one. not too shabby at all.

dlmartin81 · 03-13-2010, 11:33 AM

^^ Yes but regardless of what I do, I'm afraid that they're going to come back and say, "well, you didn't use Nissan's recommended oil" or "where's the evidence of when you did the oil change?" Yes, I have the receipts from Amazon for when I bought the oil and filter but no proof of when it was done. Or they might have me prove that Red Line contains contains the ester lubricant, which shouldn't be hard to do.

Basically, I'm preparing for resistance.

theDreamer · 03-13-2010, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlmartin81

^^ Yes but regardless of what I do, I'm afraid that they're going to come back and say, "well, you didn't use Nissan's recommended oil" or "where's the evidence of when you did the oil change?" Yes, I have the receipts from Amazon for when I bought the oil and filter but no proof of when it was done. Or they might have me try and prove that Red Line contains contains the ester lubricant, which shouldn't be hard to do. But still, I'm preparing for resistance.

Not much you can do if they try to fight it, but they cannot force you to use their oil. Heck, many dealerships do not even use the "recommended" oil and just throw in Mobil-1 or the generic Nissan oil.

dlmartin81 · 03-13-2010, 11:37 AM

But here's the weird thing, the car feels great.....definitely no indication of something being wrong. It's not sluggish, there's not noise, I don't smell anything. It rides smooth.

dlmartin81 · 03-13-2010, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

Not much you can do if they try to fight it, but they cannot force you to use their oil. Heck, many dealerships do not even use the "recommended" oil and just throw in Mobil-1 or the generic Nissan oil.

Is there any documentation (with source of reference) of Nissan saying that it is recommended BUT not required to use their oil?

TheSnakeJake · 03-13-2010, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlmartin81

Is there any documentation (with source of reference) of Nissan saying that it is recommended BUT not required to use their oil?

yes, in the owner's manual.

5w30 oil is required. nissan ester oil is recommended.

6SPD_FTW · 03-13-2010, 11:59 AM

dlmartin81: You need to get a sample of oil and send it off for analysis NOW. I would not wait. If you have driven the car for 5 miles, judging by the pictures, that would be plenty enough time for there to be something to show in in the used oil analysis that would indicate what kind of problem you have.

I've seen milky looking oil from bearing wear before, not water contamination. Powdered aluminum in the oil from bearing wear will give it a very milky looking appearance.

Nissan has never stated that Nissan's ester oil is REQUIRED and they can not refuse warranty work due to using non-ester oil, provided it meets all the other specifications (which redline does) and is the right viscosity.

As long as you have receipts and document when you change the oil, that should be sufficient for any warranty work.

Late,
Trav

ZForce · 03-13-2010, 12:06 PM

The mfg must prove that the oil you used caused the damage. There is a law out there on that I think it's called the Magnussium law (not sure on that spelling) but it's been around for years.

As I mentioned before your best bet is to get a UOA as there are a lot of engine assembly lubes that are still being cleaned out. Plus a UOA will tell you if the metal wear is damaging or normal for the engine during break in and if the rings and pistons are seating.

g/l

dlmartin81 · 03-13-2010, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6SPD_FTW

dlmartin81: You need to get a sample of oil and send it off for analysis NOW. I would not wait. If you have driven the car for 5 miles, judging by the pictures, that would be plenty enough time for there to be something to show in in the used oil analysis that would indicate what kind of problem you have.

I've seen milky looking oil from bearing wear before, not water contamination. Powdered aluminum in the oil from bearing wear will give it a very milky looking appearance.

Nissan has never stated that Nissan's ester oil is REQUIRED and they can not refuse warranty work due to using non-ester oil, provided it meets all the other specifications (which redline does) and is the right viscosity.

As long as you have receipts and document when you change the oil, that should be sufficient for any warranty work.

Late,
Trav

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlmartin81

I know but the problem is I did two oil changes in one afternoon, mine and my wife's. And mine was last. So what's in the oil pan is mixed.

^^

m4a1mustang · 03-13-2010, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZForce

The mfg must prove that the oil you used caused the damage. There is a law out there on that I think it's called the Magnussium law (not sure on that spelling) but it's been around for years.

As I mentioned before your best bet is to get a UOA as there are a lot of engine assembly lubes that are still being cleaned out. Plus a UOA will tell you if the metal wear is damaging or normal for the engine during break in and if the rings and pistons are seating.

g/l

The MM Act does nothing to protect you. If the manufacturer decides to deny your warranty claim it's on you to take up the legal fight. It almost always ends up cheaper to just pay for repairs on your own than pay the legal fees it takes to fight a big company.

dlmartin81 · 03-13-2010, 10:55 PM

I talked to an old buddy of mine who used to be a mechanic and he said that a lot of time when oil is brown, it's due to a bad head gasket (I think it was a head gasket, that he said) and you have coolant getting in and mixing with the oil. I don't know, I think that's what he said.

Does this make sense to anyone else?

03-12-2010, 07:25 PM	#47 (permalink)
dlmartin81 Track Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Chalfont, PA Age: 43 Posts: 923 Drives: 09 370Z Rep Power: 607	I know but the problem is I did two oil changes in one afternoon, mine and my wife's. And mine was last. So what's in the oil pan is mixed. Last edited by dlmartin81; 03-12-2010 at 07:32 PM.

03-13-2010, 10:55 PM	#60 (permalink)
dlmartin81 Track Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Chalfont, PA Age: 43 Posts: 923 Drives: 09 370Z Rep Power: 607	I talked to an old buddy of mine who used to be a mechanic and he said that a lot of time when oil is brown, it's due to a bad head gasket (I think it was a head gasket, that he said) and you have coolant getting in and mixing with the oil. I don't know, I think that's what he said. Does this make sense to anyone else? Last edited by dlmartin81; 03-13-2010 at 11:04 PM.

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03-12-2010, 07:10 PM	#46 (permalink)
ZForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Roseville, CA Posts: 2,359 Drives: 09 370Z Tour + Sport Rep Power: 21	Get a used oil analysis (UOA) from a reputable place i.e. Dyson or Blackstone. With your pics I would suggest Dyson. Dyson = >$$ although Terry Dyson will break down the UOA in more detail and provide a more in depth assistance to correct the issue. dyson ANALYSIS Check your dipstick weekly for oil consumption and make notes.

03-13-2010, 06:19 AM	#50 (permalink)
tbonesteak Track Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Socal Posts: 914 Drives: MY09 MB 6MT Rep Power: 375	my mentality would be that if that much flakes came out, my engine is toast anyway. i want my case to be as strong as possible. therefore, i am going to run the oil for 3k miles for it to receive the full effect of the situation, then take it to the dealer with that sample. best case: the engine is fine and you can move on with your life. worst case: the sample has proven that the engine is bad and you get a new one. not too shabby at all.

03-13-2010, 11:33 AM	#51 (permalink)
dlmartin81 Track Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Chalfont, PA Age: 43 Posts: 923 Drives: 09 370Z Rep Power: 607	^^ Yes but regardless of what I do, I'm afraid that they're going to come back and say, "well, you didn't use Nissan's* recommended oil" or "where's the evidence of when you did the oil change?*" Yes, I have the receipts from Amazon for when I bought the oil and filter but no proof of when it was done. Or they might have me prove that Red Line contains contains the ester lubricant, which shouldn't be hard to do. Basically, I'm preparing for resistance.

03-13-2010, 11:37 AM	#53 (permalink)
dlmartin81 Track Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Chalfont, PA Age: 43 Posts: 923 Drives: 09 370Z Rep Power: 607	But here's the weird thing, the car feels great.....definitely no indication of something being wrong. It's not sluggish, there's not noise, I don't smell anything. It rides smooth.

03-13-2010, 11:59 AM	#56 (permalink)
6SPD_FTW Base Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bristol, VA Posts: 59 Drives: 09 370Z Bl 6MT Rep Power: 16	dlmartin81: You need to get a sample of oil and send it off for analysis NOW. I would not wait. If you have driven the car for 5 miles, judging by the pictures, that would be plenty enough time for there to be something to show in in the used oil analysis that would indicate what kind of problem you have. I've seen milky looking oil from bearing wear before, not water contamination. Powdered aluminum in the oil from bearing wear will give it a very milky looking appearance. Nissan has never stated that Nissan's ester oil is REQUIRED and they can not refuse warranty work due to using non-ester oil, provided it meets all the other specifications (which redline does) and is the right viscosity. As long as you have receipts and document when you change the oil, that should be sufficient for any warranty work. Late, Trav

03-13-2010, 12:06 PM	#57 (permalink)
ZForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Roseville, CA Posts: 2,359 Drives: 09 370Z Tour + Sport Rep Power: 21	The mfg must prove that the oil you used caused the damage. There is a law out there on that I think it's called the Magnussium law (not sure on that spelling) but it's been around for years. As I mentioned before your best bet is to get a UOA as there are a lot of engine assembly lubes that are still being cleaned out. Plus a UOA will tell you if the metal wear is damaging or normal for the engine during break in and if the rings and pistons are seating. g/l