So do you guys change the oil before AND after any track days, or just before or just after?

LOL, at 220 F? Are you an accountant?

As I understand it 200-220 is the ideal operating temperature. If you spend a lot of time well above that then I would consider that harsh.

Have you ever bothered to look at an oil temperature viscosity chart? :) It is weight dependant, of course, but check out 0w40 or 5w40. If you think that it won't break down before 7500 miles at 220 degrees farenheit, then you should quietly excuse yourself from this thread. ;)

I have looked at the chart, and the viscosity at 220 degrees is well within operating range. The lower viscosity does not cause breakdown in within itself.

Actually, the rule of thumb is 10 degrees cooler than your coolant temperature is the optimum operating temperature. so, 200 is right on the cusp. I would say 180-190 would be optimum. Of course, below 180 is not really recommended.

The debate is not whether or not 220 is within operating range, but whether or not it will be sufficient for protection after 7500 miles. The answer is no.

And you are correct, lower viscosity does not equate breakdown...but, with rising temperature viscosity drops and metal-to-metal contact begins. Engine wear is greatly accelerated. Viscosity breakdown begins when temperatures exceed the viscosity's rating.

http://www.elephantracing.com/images...erature400.gif

Present your data to backup your claim. Your outdated chart proves nothing.

I'm not really arguing the point of 7,500 miles, personally I wouldn't go that long unless I was driving all highway and running synthetic.

But as far as viscosity goes, as I understand it you have to get the oil pretty thin before shear comes into play. I stand by 220 being an ideal operating temperature and viscosity for 5W30 and 5W40 oil. I'm happy to be proven wrong by any oil experts out there.

A quick search for the test method to certify API SM (dino or synthetic) oil is as follows:

A key new test for GF-4, which is also required for API SM, is the Sequence IIIG, which involves running a 3.8 L (232 in³), GM 3.8 L V-6 at 125 hp (93 kW), 3,600 rpm, and 150 °C (300 °F) oil temperature for 100 hours. These are much more severe conditions than any API-specified oil was designed for: cars which typically push their oil temperature consistently above 100 °C (212 °F) are most turbocharged engines, along with most engines of European or Japanese origin, particularly small capacity, high power output.
The IIIG test is about 50% more difficult[10] than the previous IIIF test, used in GF-3 and API SL oils. Engine oils bearing the API starburst symbol since 2005 are ILSAC GF-4 compliant."

So, for all you guys who think oil temps are an issue you need not worry unless you run your engine all day long well above 260F. I submit that Nissan designed their engine to go into limp mode above 280F to prevent engine damage based on the newest oil standard quoted above. In another ten years it will probably even higher.

that is certainly not outdated. clearly you are misinformed.


You obviously never track your vehicle. I am not saying that I do, but I am good friends with quite a few who do. Having just come from a GT-R, I can tell you that temps above 240-260 for a track day; the oil is changed. I even changed mine every 1500 miles as I would see temperatures of 240+ sustained on mountain runs. Keep in mind that the GT-R is designed for track usage...well, moreso than the 370.

If you want to drive 7500 miles at higher temps between oil changes, more power to you. Me, i will opt to protect my engine...especially since it will be twin turbo'ed soon. Massive AE Performance oil cooler will be first modification.

I won't go over 4,000 miles with synthetic, so non synthectic 3,000 max if so.

We're discussing routine oil changes for normal vehicle operation - not tracking. Obviously you can't digest what the current API SM specification standard is. This is 2010 not 1970. There have been technological advances not only in engine design but also in lubricants. If you want to resist change that's fine. But don't come in here espousing that oil if not changed prior to 7500 miles will cause pre-mature failure. Because that is what you are insinuating which is BS. So, for you, I'll return the same courtesy :gtfo2:

I use Redline and am not comfortable taking it too far beyond 4k-4.5k miles under regular driving conditions. It may very well be good beyond that (and probably is), but at 4k I'd much rather replace the dirty stuff with clean and go on with it.