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Originally Posted by NYBladeZ ^^ this is the first instance of this happening, while it sucks and I'm sorry for the OP I don't see it being a reoccurring issue.
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#32 (permalink) |
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btw, what clued you in? did you see the oil on the street or did you see the oil light come on on the panel? how long before you cut off the motor? just curious... not a lot of time between the engine running out of oil and the thing ceasing up in a really bad way - something I unfortunately learned the hard way!
and for what it's worth, i agree, GTM should replace your hoses and with a different part... that's just part of being in the biz - they know it |
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#33 (permalink) | |
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#34 (permalink) | |
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i feel sorry for the poor sap that's gonna buy ur car
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#35 (permalink) |
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The Z is fine. Its very dirty and I dont think ima spend the $100 to get it pressure washed but everything runs ok. Just got back from a late night drive and it seems normal, my butt dyno doesnt approve of the Stillen G3.
I can see what your saying about owning a Z. Im single and Im gonna stay that way, im 22, I have been a border patrol agent for 3 years and I work hard, outside in heat, rain, and cold weather, I dont get to sit inside a building all day long. I know how lucky I am to own a Z but I wasnt handed the dam thing for free. I can afford to drive a c6 vette, shoulda bought a c6 vette, should be driving a c6 vette tomorrow to work. Well I am not and thats the lesson I learned, patience. All the bs about the user install lol its plumbing connect part A to part B. The hardest part was the cooler itself; trying to figure out where to mount the thing. Regaurdless of everyones opinions, mine will stay the same. Z is a great fun car but it has its flaws like every other car on the market. Not knocking it at all, I still drive it, still defend it, I just want to get rid of it.
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#36 (permalink) | |
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#38 (permalink) |
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I agree that you shouldn't go for the pressure washer. Just cover the distributor and other electrical pieces with plastic bags, spray on an engine degreaser, and hose off.
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#40 (permalink) |
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Travis: was your failure do to a properly assembled fitting?
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#41 (permalink) |
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my installer said it was a blown line, but i suspect it was not fully attached... again, not the GTM kit, but lesson learned is to use the highest quality components and 3x check fittings when it comes to the oiling system... the pump on this car has a very high throughput and moves a lot of oil in short order in order to keep the upper end of the motor cool... so when these sorts of things happen, you have very little time to react and get the motor turned off
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#42 (permalink) | |
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I am planning on building my own kit and will be using the aeroquip socketless hoses.
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#44 (permalink) |
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i'm not going to say this was the original posters problem ( i don't know nearly enough about the product, or install to even guess), but this brought up a good reminder. When you guys do the installs on these kits, the hoses MUST have some slack in them. The engine is not solid mounted to the chassis so as the engine moves under down shifts, and up shifts, it will pull on the hoses if they are too tight and rigidly mounted to the sub frame. That is probably one of the few ways i could see there being enough force to yank a hose end off of a JIC hose assembly like that. Assuming it was properly assembled of course.
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#45 (permalink) |
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Definitely on the gauge... I'm using a spa dual water/oil temp gauge in place of the clock... and for those that haven't seen it, check out Lou's TT build thread and look for the pics of his new gauges!
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