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Need Advice... Master/Slave Failing?
Went for a hard 25 miles, 15 minute drive the other day
Noticed my clutch fluid was in the middle before pulling out...ive seen the fluid drop a year ago, and no problems since...so thought not much of it 25 miles later I arrive at my first stoplight...clutch pedal immediately engages right off the floor and does not come all the way up. I pull over, see clutch fluid is below the minimum level now. uh oh... I fill it, and drive home just fine. Once home, same problem. Fluid is FULL after 25 mile drive back, BUT the pedal engages immediately and does not come all the way up again.... I checked the next 2 days and nothings changed, fluid full still. Cars been parked 2 weeks now, and pedal is fine now, and fluid is too. Only moved around driveway, have yet to road test.... Fluid has not been changed in my 2 year 26k mile ownership....it's dark. Tried bleeding the fluid as a potential fix, the rusted bleeder valve broke off :ughdance: How should I proceed? Is this correct order? 1. Bleed lines to see if problem is fixed 2. Change CMC if step 1 fails 3. Drop the trans..... if all else fails 130k mile car, previous owner changed CSC around 90k-100k mile mark when it left him stranded |
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The pedal dropping and not returning is likely the CSC. When the previous owner changed the CSC, do you know if it was OEM or the kit from Z1/ZSpeed? A lot of members will recommend the ZSpeed kit over Z1. Sounds like you need to replace both the CSC/CMC, as any other solutions could be temp./band-aid solutions. |
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I just test drove it, pedal functions perfectly fine. Drove it for 5 minutes, did notice a small drop in fluid. Should I just jump directly to swapping the CMC as a fluid flush alone likely wont fix anything? Edit: I am clueless as to what the previous owner replaced the CSC with :( |
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The fluid dropping is likely the CMC. Flushing it out may help it temporarily, but it won't make the problem go away. Also, when the fluid drops, are you seeing fluid on the floor? If not, it's most likely making its way into the tranny bell housing, which in turn can get on the clutch and would need to be replaced also. Check under the tranny. The aftermarket ZSpeed kit will have the fork mechanism on the outside of the tranny. I'm leaning towards that the CSC replaced was OEM, as the Z1/ZSpeed kit shouldn't go out after 30k miles. |
FWIW, I believe my CMC is on its way out, as I have to top off the clutch fluid after driving for like 5 miles. Once the car gets warmed up, the clutch pedal gets soft, but still comes all the way up. So I'm at a point where I drive her once every 2 weeks for a limited distance just to get the oil running and to prevent flat spots on tires and then hook her up to a Battery Tender once a month.
I'll be replacing the CMC/CSC/Clutch as soon as I find time and an extra person to help. |
You can't get a flat spot on a tyre unless it's completely out of air. Brand new cars have their tyres pumped up to 3 BAR (~45 PSI) and they can't get a flat spot. It's a myth that you could get a flat spot if you let your car sit for a while.
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BTW, still not sure how you don't have any flat spots on your seats :rofl2: |
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https://i.imgur.com/ZW2U9Bxh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wGb2tnKh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/xLhjjFPh.jpg Fortunately, all of the creases are soft and not yet anywhere near the point of breaking open, but yeah, I'm careful with it. A lot of leather lotion and prayers to the Leather God :bowrofl: |
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First off, new cars have a higher tyre pressure and they sit around for quite a while before being delivered, and those tyres don't have flat spots. Secondly, I cycle a lot. New bicycle tyres often come folded, like, completely folded. You unfold them and mount them to the rim, pump them up and presto - they're completely round and no flat spots, although they were completely folded. I don't think it's that easy to create a flat spot, let alone if you raise the tyre pressure. |
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