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-   -   Just want to confirm. (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/138825-just-want-confirm.html)

ZoomZ 04-29-2023 10:13 AM

Just want to confirm.
 
Finally got to drive the car around the block after full Clutch system upgrade. (Zpeed CMACK, EZ street Clutch and LW FW, RJM Pedal with Tilton MC)

I did a search and read a few posts about the Lightweight flywheel and noise.

I get almost no noise or chattering at Idle in Neutral. Sounds normal.

However, when I drive, it sounds like GRINDING METAL.
I did nothing spirited, didn't even get past 3rd gear. I read the comments about sounding like a F250 Diesel, or bunch of rattle cans. Seems to be what I'm experiencing.

Transmission shifts ok. No notches or gear grinding. The RJM pedal is a bit stiff (almost like stock) buy I'll let Clutch and whole system break-in before I adjust it.

One thing I forgot to do, is top up the Transmission fluid. I lost about 1/2 a cup when I did the CMACK, due to those sealed bolts on Transmission input shaft cover.

I don't think that little Fluid loss would cause that grinding. ( REdline MT-85 currently)

So this noise is normal?

Averying 04-29-2023 10:26 AM

If I give any substantial throttle below ~1500-2000rpm, it makes a noticeable metal grinding noise. Sounds like sh*t tbh.

After ~2500rpm, no chatter at all! I think what you’re hearing is normal.


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NissanZ34 04-29-2023 11:05 AM

What you are hearing is normal sound from single mass flywheel on a VQ37VHR. I thought the same when I first drove my car after doing the same mods as you did but Zspeed told me it's normal and indeed it is.

ZoomZ 04-29-2023 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Averying (Post 4038944)
If I give any substantial throttle below ~1500-2000rpm, it makes a noticeable metal grinding noise. Sounds like sh*t tbh.

After ~2500rpm, no chatter at all! I think what you’re hearing is normal.


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Thank you.

I noticed in your signature you have a Z1 FW. I am assuming that is also a lightweight. However, is it Aluminum or steel?

Averying 04-29-2023 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZoomZ (Post 4038949)
Thank you.

I noticed in your signature you have a Z1 FW. I am assuming that is also a lightweight. However, is it Aluminum or steel?


I’m not sure if I have the lightweight (14lb) or mid weight (21lb). Previous owner installed it.

Both Z1’s offerings are 4140 steel


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ZStalker505 04-29-2023 11:22 AM

I dont know exactly whats in my car but at idle it sounds like a diesel and low rpm accelerating pretty bad noise. I was told its a custom clutchmaster stage 3 but no idea the flywheel so its probably normal.

ZoomZ 04-29-2023 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NissanZ34 (Post 4038948)
What you are hearing is normal sound from single mass flywheel on a VQ37VHR. I thought the same when I first drove my car after doing the same mods as you did but Zspeed told me it's normal and indeed it is.

Thanks :tiphat:

runwhatyabrng 05-20-2024 02:35 PM

:eek: Holly crap on a stick man, I just come back after changing my clutch and flywheel, (still initial break in, did 120 mile) I had heard the comments but did not expect it to be that bad. The trans mount probably did not help. Put in the following parts:
  • Jim Wolf Technology (JWT) Heavy Duty clutch
  • CZP Lightweight Chromoly Flywheel (17 lbs)
  • JIT Heavy Duty Alloy Body Concentric Slave Cylinder
  • Torque Solution Billet Aluminum Transmission Mount
  • Whiteline Differential Bushing Set

clutch feel and take-up is really nice, but the noise and vibrations. :icon14: Did not go past 4000 RPM but it's buzzy for sure

Rusty 05-20-2024 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by runwhatyabrng (Post 4050771)
:eek: Holly crap on a stick man, I just come back after changing my clutch and flywheel, (still initial break in, did 120 mile) I had heard the comments but did not expect it to be that bad. The trans mount probably did not help. Put in the following parts:
  • Jim Wolf Technology (JWT) Heavy Duty clutch
  • CZP Lightweight Chromoly Flywheel (17 lbs)
  • JIT Heavy Duty Alloy Body Concentric Slave Cylinder
  • Torque Solution Billet Aluminum Transmission Mount
  • Whiteline Differential Bushing Set

clutch feel and take-up is really nice, but the noise and vibrations. :icon14: Did not go past 4000 RPM but it's buzzy for sure

A solid transmission mount will knock your teeth out.

runwhatyabrng 05-21-2024 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4050775)
A solid transmission mount will knock your teeth out.

Yeah it's bad enough that I think I'll just swap back in the OEM one. The unpleasantness of the drive is more than any advantage it would provide.

2011 Nismo#91 05-21-2024 06:21 AM

Yeah unless you're building a race car there is no need to go solid mounts.

projectpanda 05-21-2024 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZoomZ (Post 4038943)
Finally got to drive the car around the block after full Clutch system upgrade. (Zpeed CMACK, EZ street Clutch and LW FW, RJM Pedal with Tilton MC)

So this noise is normal?

I have pretty much the same setup as you, RJM Tilton MC and everything, but I have the 12lb flywheel.

I have no clutch chatter at idle or any rpm range since I also opted for the "quiet-disk" setup.

I'm close to finishing my clutch break with about another 100 miles to go.

The issue/complaint I have is that my FP is very low and I can't adjust lower than 100%, otherwise I can't get into gear.

I contacted RJM and he said I may still have air in my system

runwhatyabrng 05-21-2024 09:41 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by projectpanda (Post 4050784)
I have pretty much the same setup as you, RJM Tilton MC and everything, but I have the 12lb flywheel.

I have no clutch chatter at idle or any rpm range since I also opted for the "quiet-disk" setup.

I'm close to finishing my clutch break with about another 100 miles to go.

The issue/complaint I have is that my FP is very low and I can't adjust lower than 100%, otherwise I can't get into gear.

I contacted RJM and he said I may still have air in my system

I swapped in a new OEM master cylinder when I did clutch change. Bench bled the unit with it in the car then I use my vacuum bleeder to clear the whole line. No air in there, pedal feel is great. I you can get a vacuum bleeder, it saves a lot of aggravation.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/pneu...t/PA0009121187

you might be able to get the tool loaned or Harbor Freight sells something similar

projectpanda 05-21-2024 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by runwhatyabrng (Post 4050785)
I swapped in a new OEM master cylinder when I did clutch change. Bench bled the unit with it in the car then I use my vacuum bleeder to clear the whole line. No air in there, pedal feel is great. I you can get a vacuum bleeder, it saves a lot of aggravation.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/pneu...t/PA0009121187

you might be able to get the tool loaned or Harbor Freight sells something similar

I'll probably do a bench bleed on the MC.

My pedal is very consistent and return feel. Clutch grabs fine and going into all gears is fine also. Its just my FP is very low and not being able to adjust the RJ pedal.

I though air would cause some inconsistency or something.

I confirmed with Joe on the CMAK that I'm getting the correct amount of fork movement.

runwhatyabrng 05-24-2024 05:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4050775)
A solid transmission mount will knock your teeth out.

So after 500 km (300 miles) , I reverted back to OEM trans mount. Anybody looking for a slightly used Torque Solution billet aluminum transmission mount (TS-TM-433) ;)


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