Oil Nerds Info

Jordo! · 12-27-2010, 03:47 PM

Here's my first UOA on Castrol syntec 0w30 -- Ze German stuff.

Supposedly, Lead, Copper, and Chromium are the ones to look for low numbers -- I'm not pleased with the copper wear, but the other two look good.

I'll try one more time on this oil, then possibly switch to something else... maybe Redline or back to the Ester oil... hmm.

I get that in theory it could be from break in, but I've got over 12K on the motor and this was the 2nd oil change after factory fill -- wouldn't all the wear particles be long gone???

Any thoughts?

EDIT: Did some research, and actually, this all does indeed look good to nomal. Looks like several of the wear metal numbers don't really start coming down on this motor until 15-20K.

Jordo! · 04-14-2011, 04:41 PM

Okay. here's number two...

Thoughts?

Jordo! · 08-30-2011, 06:17 PM

Crickets...

A third UOA if anyone cares...

Long story short, I think I'm going to try redline on next oil change. I do mostly city driving, but it would be nice to compare and contrast with another oil.

I'll get one more UOA on this one (last fill had Castrol 0w30) just to have a clear baseline for comparison, then will get data on Redline 5w30 with next oil change.

Man... I'll be over 30K at that point.

Methodical4u · 08-30-2011, 07:01 PM

I know Bob, he used to be on the Evo site... there was not ONE question ever asked that he couldn't answer. The guy really knows his stuff. It's like the science debate.. you can go over and over numbers, but they will indeed change. I do believe some oils are better, a good synthetic however has always been my choice and I won't name a brand and get into a debate, but I can tell you my oil temps have been cooler and i'm happy with that

Jordo! · 08-30-2011, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methodical4u

I know Bob, he used to be on the Evo site... there was not ONE question ever asked that he couldn't answer. The guy really knows his stuff. It's like the science debate.. you can go over and over numbers, but they will indeed change. I do believe some oils are better, a good synthetic however has always been my choice and I won't name a brand and get into a debate, but I can tell you my oil temps have been cooler and i'm happy with that

I won't debate it -- tell me

I'm wondering if maybe a 0 wt oil is too thin for the FL climate, especially in the summer. Could be that on start up it just isn't viscous enough.

Anyway, whether it's the oil or my driving habits, comparing the results with another oil should be informative.

If no change, then I guess I could either try a third oil, or just assume that those wear levels are not all that uncommon for city driving.

Anyway, I'm happy to see limited evidence of piston wear and my motor consumes zero oil, so if I can keep all that stable and protect the bearings a little better, I'll be happy.

Another possiblity is that it's not bearing wear -- supposedly lead particles can also come from the valvetrain... maybe the head really does need some sort of Ester oil to run optimally.

Beats me.

Anyway, I'll know better what's going on within the 10K or so.

Anbody else on here running the 0w30 German Castrol? If so, any UOA's?

FL 4Motion · 08-31-2011, 02:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

Crickets...

A third UOA if anyone cares...

Long story short, I think I'm going to try redline on next oil change. I do mostly city driving, but it would be nice to compare and contrast with another oil.

I'll get one more UOA on this one (last fill had Castrol 0w30) just to have a clear baseline for comparison, then will get data on Redline 5w30 with next oil change.

Man... I'll be over 30K at that point.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

I won't debate it -- tell me

I'm wondering if maybe a 0 wt oil is too thin for the FL climate, especially in the summer. Could be that on start up it just isn't viscous enough.

Anyway, whether it's the oil or my driving habits, comparing the results with another oil should be informative.

If no change, then I guess I could either try a third oil, or just assume that those wear levels are not all that uncommon for city driving.

Anyway, I'm happy to see limited evidence of piston wear and my motor consumes zero oil, so if I can keep all that stable and protect the bearings a little better, I'll be happy.

Another possiblity is that it's not bearing wear -- supposedly lead particles can also come from the valvetrain... maybe the head really does need some sort of Ester oil to run optimally.

Beats me.

Anyway, I'll know better what's going on within the 10K or so.

Anbody else on here running the 0w30 German Castrol? If so, any UOA's?

/\ Jordo, I'm running Mobil 1 0w-40. Been doing so since 5K and I'm at 13,1xx now. Haven't done a UOA but all the ones I've seen led me to believe that either it, or the castrol you're running are two of the best oils out there. My two cents would be to switch up to the mobile 1 0w-40 for 10K miles (two oil changes) and see what happens, it's an "off the shelf" oil, not something you need to order off the internet/go ot a performance shop to buy, to me, that has some weight.

Methodical4u · 08-31-2011, 04:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

I won't debate it -- tell me

I'm wondering if maybe a 0 wt oil is too thin for the FL climate, especially in the summer. Could be that on start up it just isn't viscous enough.

Anyway, whether it's the oil or my driving habits, comparing the results with another oil should be informative.

If no change, then I guess I could either try a third oil, or just assume that those wear levels are not all that uncommon for city driving.

Anyway, I'm happy to see limited evidence of piston wear and my motor consumes zero oil, so if I can keep all that stable and protect the bearings a little better, I'll be happy.

Another possiblity is that it's not bearing wear -- supposedly lead particles can also come from the valvetrain... maybe the head really does need some sort of Ester oil to run optimally.

Beats me.

Anyway, I'll know better what's going on within the 10K or so.

Anbody else on here running the 0w30 German Castrol? If so, any UOA's?

I don't think it's to thin myself. I use 0 wt also and have used it in my last 3 cars without issue. The car runs so incredibly smooth, quiet, the temps are cooler and the gas mileage is better. Not by a huge margin, but enough to notice.

tranceformer · 08-31-2011, 06:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

I won't debate it -- tell me

I'm wondering if maybe a 0 wt oil is too thin for the FL climate, especially in the summer. Could be that on start up it just isn't viscous enough.

Anyway, whether it's the oil or my driving habits, comparing the results with another oil should be informative.

If no change, then I guess I could either try a third oil, or just assume that those wear levels are not all that uncommon for city driving.

Anyway, I'm happy to see limited evidence of piston wear and my motor consumes zero oil, so if I can keep all that stable and protect the bearings a little better, I'll be happy.

Another possiblity is that it's not bearing wear -- supposedly lead particles can also come from the valvetrain... maybe the head really does need some sort of Ester oil to run optimally.

Beats me.

Anyway, I'll know better what's going on within the 10K or so.

Anbody else on here running the 0w30 German Castrol? If so, any UOA's?

I've used it twice last year, but only got one sample tested.

i think this one is it...

Red__Zed · 08-31-2011, 09:30 AM

I'll try and get my gc uoa's scanned in

Jordo! · 08-31-2011, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FL 4Motion

/\ Jordo, I'm running Mobil 1 0w-40. Been doing so since 5K and I'm at 13,1xx now. Haven't done a UOA but all the ones I've seen led me to believe that either it, or the castrol you're running are two of the best oils out there. My two cents would be to switch up to the mobile 1 0w-40 for 10K miles (two oil changes) and see what happens, it's an "off the shelf" oil, not something you need to order off the internet/go ot a performance shop to buy, to me, that has some weight.

I'll try that after the Redline -- thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methodical4u

I don't think it's to thin myself. I use 0 wt also and have used it in my last 3 cars without issue. The car runs so incredibly smooth, quiet, the temps are cooler and the gas mileage is better. Not by a huge margin, but enough to notice.

But you don't live in a really hot climate... what oil do you use?

My car runs super smooth too, burns no oil, and makes great power -- but that doesn't mean things aren't being gradually ground down inside. You really need a UOA to determine that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tranceformer

I've used it twice last year, but only got one sample tested.

i think this one is it...

Cool -thanks! Your lead is nice and low. What kind of driving do you primarily do?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed

I'll try and get my gc uoa's scanned in

Thanks-- I'd appreciate that!

Methodical4u · 08-31-2011, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

I'll try that after the Redline -- thanks

But you don't live in a really hot climate... what oil do you use?

My car runs super smooth too, burns no oil, and makes great power -- but that doesn't mean things aren't being gradually ground down inside. You really need a UOA to determine that.

No, I don't live in a year round hot climate. We have had multiple days of 100 degrees and over... not to mention that the humidity is just about ALWAYS high here which sucks and drives the heat index WAYYYY up. I don't live in a hot dry climate no, but my car sees over 100 degrees and then it sees 0 or below days... IMO that's a better test for oil.

I use AMSoil SSO 0w-30.

Cool -thanks! Your lead is nice and low. What kind of driving do you primarily do?

Thanks-- I'd appreciate that!

No, I don't live in a year round hot climate. We have had multiple days of 100 degrees and over... not to mention that the humidity is just about ALWAYS high here which sucks and drives the heat index WAYYYY up. I don't live in a hot dry climate no, but my car sees over 100 degrees and then it sees 0 or below days... IMO that's a better test for oil.

I use AMSoil SSO 0w-30.

tranceformer · 08-31-2011, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

Cool -thanks! Your lead is nice and low. What kind of driving do you primarily do?

That sample was the last one as a daily driver, no oil cooler either. That sample was probably 75% highway miles.

Jordo! · 08-31-2011, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methodical4u

I use AMSoil SSO 0w-30.

Thanks -- I'll consider that one too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tranceformer

That sample was the last one as a daily driver, no oil cooler either. That sample was probably 75% highway miles.

I wonder if that is the key difference.

Yeesh... then I definitely want to try something that minimizes lead wear.

tranceformer · 08-31-2011, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

Yeesh... then I definitely want to try something that minimizes lead wear.

here's the latest one i have on file.

pennzoil platinum 5w30 w/ oil cooler, "weekend car" status so maybe 50/50 city/highway. I ran this fill for about 5months, 4k miles.

Methodical4u · 08-31-2011, 03:44 PM

I will add that since the first oil change my car has only seen 220 degrees and that was it and that was during about a 90 degree day and with pretty hard driving breaking the ART pipes in.

12-27-2010, 03:47 PM	#1 (permalink)
Jordo! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: nirvana Posts: 6,394 Drives: 2023 NATM Rep Power: 418	Here's my first UOA on Castrol syntec 0w30 -- Ze German stuff. Supposedly, Lead, Copper, and Chromium are the ones to look for low numbers -- I'm not pleased with the copper wear, but the other two look good. I'll try one more time on this oil, then possibly switch to something else... maybe Redline or back to the Ester oil... hmm. I get that in theory it could be from break in, but I've got over 12K on the motor and this was the 2nd oil change after factory fill -- wouldn't all the wear particles be long gone??? Any thoughts? EDIT: Did some research, and actually, this all does indeed look good to nomal. Looks like several of the wear metal numbers don't really start coming down on this motor until 15-20K. __________________ Enjoy it. Destroy it. Last edited by Jordo!; 12-27-2010 at 08:45 PM.

04-14-2011, 04:41 PM	#2 (permalink)
Jordo! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: nirvana Posts: 6,394 Drives: 2023 NATM Rep Power: 418	Okay. here's number two... Thoughts? __________________ Enjoy it. Destroy it.

08-30-2011, 06:17 PM	#3 (permalink)
Jordo! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: nirvana Posts: 6,394 Drives: 2023 NATM Rep Power: 418	Crickets... A third UOA if anyone cares... Long story short, I think I'm going to try redline on next oil change. I do mostly city driving, but it would be nice to compare and contrast with another oil. I'll get one more UOA on this one (last fill had Castrol 0w30) just to have a clear baseline for comparison, then will get data on Redline 5w30 with next oil change. Man... I'll be over 30K at that point. __________________ Enjoy it. Destroy it. Last edited by Jordo!; 08-30-2011 at 06:20 PM.

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08-30-2011, 07:01 PM	#4 (permalink)
Methodical4u A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,393 Drives: 11 370 6mt pw w/sp Rep Power: 16	I know Bob, he used to be on the Evo site... there was not ONE question ever asked that he couldn't answer. The guy really knows his stuff. It's like the science debate.. you can go over and over numbers, but they will indeed change. I do believe some oils are better, a good synthetic however has always been my choice and I won't name a brand and get into a debate, but I can tell you my oil temps have been cooler and i'm happy with that

08-31-2011, 09:30 AM	#9 (permalink)
Red__Zed A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: window seat Posts: 28,940 Drives: Mostly on two wheels Rep Power: 120	I'll try and get my gc uoa's scanned in

08-31-2011, 03:44 PM	#15 (permalink)
Methodical4u A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,393 Drives: 11 370 6mt pw w/sp Rep Power: 16	I will add that since the first oil change my car has only seen 220 degrees and that was it and that was during about a 90 degree day and with pretty hard driving breaking the ART pipes in.