Need opinions whether or not to build the engine
 

Hi there. I have not fixed the gallery gasket yet but I have the Z1 kit. I'll have the labor done at the dealership. I was wondering if I should get the exhaust cams done along with the nismo oil pump and Fast Intentions long tube headers to seal the deal for FBO N/A and pretend to have saved some money on labor?

I have GReddy GT EVO exhaust, FI HFC, and 2.5 inch Z1 intakes with standard filters. I feel like they have better throttle response than the 3 inch Admin intakes my friend has although the 2.5 lack a bit top of end power. I got the polyurethane motor mount, polyurethane transmission mount, SLP solid bushings, Bell diff brace, CSF Radiator, EBC yellow stuff pads, and stage 1 gutted trunk.

I have a front sway bar and the Dewla Dezign intake air guide yet to be installed.

I don't think I need the complete SLP catalog as I don't have a proper street performance competent alignment shop to align the car where I live.

Sub question: If I was to buy the cams, the nismo oil pump, and the FI headers, should I also get the Wavetrac diff to perfect the street oriented build or can the oem sport vlsd still be okay for something like 320-330 whp?

Sub question2: I have noticed high oil temps during prolonged spirited driving sessions. Is a 13 row or such Mishimoto oil cooler enough for pro street?

Complementary info: I have 300whp/264wtq right now. I'm not willing to buy a Supercharger kit yet so money is somewhat an issue at this moment although I want to spend some more because I love the car even if it has a low torque rating for my liking.

Thanks.

Need opinions whether or not to build the engine
 

A proper LSD should be a noticeable improvement over the VLSD. If you can afford a couple extra grand for a diff, then go for it. IMO, a proper diff seems like a more worthwhile upgrade than cams. Cams won’t get you THAT much power, and a diff should be a pretty noticeable upgrade, Although I don’t have first hand experience here…

Get a 34 row oil cooler. Block off some of the plates in cooler weather. Better to have extra cooling capability if you need it.

I’m not sure why you’re asking if you should building the engine if you’re FBO N/A. Stock block is fine even with mild boost.

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What are your intentions with the car?

Also you mention money being an issue, but once you buy the headers/cams and factor in cost of installation (unless you're doing the work yourself), you're well into the cost of forced induction (minus supporting mods).

I thought since the mechanic will be doing a gallery gasket job might as well take off the valve covers and put in the exhaust cams in there. I think exhaust cams are a good supporting mod for boost while gaining some of the top end I lack of right now. Doing such would save me money in the long run if I ever go boosted while getting an immediate N/A gain although you guys are telling it won't be dramatic.

The car is a powersport toy for the most part. I want to be able to daily drive it if I buy a higher end car that will become the new fun car.

I thought one should have headers if going supercharger is the end goal which for me is yet to be determined but I would love to for sure. Also, exhaust cams and headers would work well together in my opinion since they allow more cfm.

There's another challenge to boosting my car since the only reputable VQ shop that can do a supercharger/turbo kit installation in my province strictly relies on Admin tuning and I kind of don't trust the copy paste work method he uses to tune for his customers.

I like N/A for this platform and I prefer not to boost my car for reliability reasons. I'm thinking more and more to save up for a final year ZL1 to have a factory race ready car.

leave it NA. spend the money on seat time.

try and push the car to the limit. Then upgrade what you need to go past that limit.

(spoiler: it won't be cams)

I think I did reach the limit as for power. That's why I want some more and so far I fully appreciated every upgrade done on the car. I got scared a couple times on close calls at high speeds so I did purchase mods for the chassis and drivetrain. Perhaps the Wavetrac diff would really help for this matter. Somebody please chime in for this subject. Also, I have found that when you have to emergency brake when going at speeds above 130 mph the oem sport brakes are not enough for my requirement.

I bought it bone stock minus muffler delete and worked my way up through bolt-ons. I like the N/A build. It's a shame it has to be boosted to have respectable torque. I also thought of a stroker kit to remediate to forced induction but then it would mean to rebuild a still usable engine that barely has 45,000 miles on it so that would be unjustifiable in my opinion.

I think he’s suggesting race track visits when he said “seat time”.

The stock base and sport brakes are more than capable of stopping the rotors/engaging the abs.

The only reason to get larger brakes is if you are going to be braking a lot in a short amount of time.

Like on the track.

You should try to keep the threads specific, asking many questions from other parts of the car will not get the answers you want.

It would make sense to put the cams while the gaskets are being done, be advised that these cams might require tuning which the dealer might not be able to do.

It would also make sense to do an oil cooler since from factory the over heat the oil. The practice of adding a 34 row is a good one especially if it comes with a thermostatic oil valve. If it gets to the point where oil is just not warming up as fast a simple piece of board blocking some of the rows will do the job. I agree with what was said. Blocking airflow is much easier than having to buy a bigger cooler.

To my understanding all VHR oil pumps are the same including Nismo pump. You'll be fine with a stock pump.

The stock LSD is unreliable at stock power levels, this is a yes.

Overall you're setting the right foundation with the setup for the SC for when that time comes.

I'd suggest you start looking at local tuner shops, especially those that are Ecutek/Uprev savvy. Usually these shops are knowledgeable enough for some of these upgrades and a bit cheaper than dealer prices.

I currently have the Mishimoto 13 row it struggles a bit during hot summer but seems alright in fall. Will the car heat up the engine oil even more once I have headers? I forgot to mention that I have an oversize oil pan.

I agree with the quoted bold statement above. It seems once you are boosted you must have a LSD or it becomes a hazard. Might as well have it anyway.

LTH's won't make a difference on oil temps.

I have read the thread but did not see an answer to this..
This is really key as to what you want to do?

The VQ without any internal mods and being NA is plenty for tracking.

So what are you planning on using the car for?

Will the Fast Intentions LTH sound good with the GReddy GT EVO catback?