Manual not shifting into gear when on

steve216

My car while driving suddenly stopped shifting into gear. I was able to roll it and force it into first to get it home. If I turn it off I can switch gears, and if I try to start it in a gear or reverse it engages but obviously not smooth. The clutch returns after pressing it. I had a csc go on me last year and it was not like how this feels this time. Any ideas?

Averying

What did you replace the CSC with when it went out last time?


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steve216

sadly I replaced it with the same factory csc, if its the same issue again I'm definitely upgrading it to the delete

Rusty

Get the Speed CMAK kit.

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filip00

How long did it last between changes? Seems like a CSC master or slave failure.
When it happened to me, I turned it on in first for a superjerky start, but thanks to synchroshift I was possible to change gears gently without using the clutch and without mashing gears together. Every stop meant shifting to neutral and shutting down the engine so I can start again. It was horrible and I wouldn't recommend it to anyone for anything longer than maybe a few mile ride to the shop.

steve216

I'd say less than 25k miles first one lasted till 80k. That one when it went out the clutch fluid almost drained the the peddle stuck to the floor after pressing it, this time its moving back and I got fluid.

I'm hoping it is just a CSC issue, I'd like to install the CSC delete like I should have the first time.

stansens

This is usually a sign of a failed pilot bearing. It allows the input shaft to stop turning when the clutch is depressed and the engine is running. As they fail it gets harder and harder to shift the trans until it simply won't go into gear while engine is running but will shift easiy with the engine off. Replaced many of these over the years. Ask a transmission shop to confirm my opinion. Hope this helps.

steve216

thanks for the input, I think you maybe right on this one. This feels different than my CSC fail. On a side note if it is this would the same amount of work be done to reach it and in that case still be a good chance to replace CSC with the delete kit?

stansens

I have to agree as the transmission has to be removed. Maybe change the rear main seal while you are there and make sure the flywheel is still good. Big job but can be done at home. Any questions just message me or this site will help you as well. Good luck.

steve216

I plan to replace my csc with the delete kit when I go to replace this potential pilot bearing issue. The car has a relatively new clutch/flywheel at the moment, about 25k miles on them.

Should I swap to a new clutch/flywheel while there in there? Also I what are your thoughts on replacing the master cylinder as well with the csc delete kit?

40 to 332

You should replace the clutch master cylinder with the CSC delete kit. As others have indicated, replace the stock CSC with the ZSpeed CMAK kit. You might also consider replacing the stock clutch hose that runs to the CSC with an insulated braided hose from ZSpeed. If you want a more bullet-proof system, then consider replacing the stock clutch pedal assembly with the RJM pedal assembly and opt for the heavy-duty Tilton master cylinder. That's the route I chose and I've had no issues since. Finally, once you've changed out the CSC and MC, bleed the system with a high quality DOT 4 brake fluid, such as Motul 600 or ATE TYP200, or even Castrol SRF. You should bleed the system at least once per year. Trust this helps!

steve216

Today I noticed if I just try to press the stick into first, though it wont go in the car begins to slowly crawl forward even while pressing the clutch pedal down. It will do it in any gear but reverse.

Rusty

Did you replace the clutch yet?

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steve216

No but I just ordered one

filip00

This is the symptom of a failed CSC, not the clutch itself. Clutch failure is usually slipping when in gear. This is engaging when you want to have it disengaged - ergo, the cylinder.