Mc & csc

vtec to vvel · 09-10-2022, 10:45 PM

Convinced more than ever to do this myself. Just weighing out options, I called/spoke with 2 different Nissan Service Dept and both persons I spoke with claimed to be the "Z and GTR Specialist". After explaining the situation:

1. Both "specialists" tried to bully me into going with OEM parts vs the ZSpeed Kit I'd be providing. I asked why go OEM if it's prone to fail anyway, to which they replied that OEM parts have warranty. I informed them that the warranty doesn't mean anything to me if it's prone to fail anyway.
2. One of the "specialists" took the time to look up the part from ZSpeed and was picking it apart and kept referring back to Nissan engineers that designed the car knows it the best. I asked if they knew the car so well, why hasn't the CSC issue been addressed/fixed since the 2007 350Z's?
3. Both "specialists" denied any known issues with the CSC, as in they have never heard of this issue before, at which point I hung up.

Luckily, I at least got a warning that the CSC was going out, and not nearly as bad as some of the stories I've read on this forum. IMO, this is a huge safety issue, so I'm shocked that Nissan has not issued a recall or a lawsuit in favor of this getting fixed by Nissan.

FX-32 · 09-10-2022, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

I REALLY appreciate your response! Knowledge is power and any advice/tips/etc. is MUCH appreciated

Did you have help or did you do this by yourself?

I did it 99% alone by myself, I had such a HARD time aligning it back into the engine that I called a friend and we put it back in quickly. Again, my mistake was the transmission jack, get a good one with as much adjustment as possible and you should be able to do it alone if time isn't an issue.

I went with Z1 lightweight flywheel and full face clutch kit (comes with pilot bushing and alignment tool), I'm about at 650whp and it works perfectly. Then a 370z master cylinder, and concept Z heavy duty CSC. I didn't want to go with the concept Z CSC delete that seems to be the best option, but anyways I'd like to try this one first.

If I had to do it again, I think I could do it in only one day this time, I see everything much clearer and I don't consider it a hard job now.

Good thing I decided to change everything else inside, because clutch took a lot of fluid that the CSC leaked and spilled everywhere.

vtec to vvel · 09-10-2022, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FX-32

I did it 99% alone by myself, I had such a HARD time aligning it back into the engine that I called a friend and we put it back in quickly. Again, my mistake was the transmission jack, get a good one with as much adjustment as possible and you should be able to do it alone if time isn't an issue.

I went with Z1 lightweight flywheel and full face clutch kit (comes with pilot bushing and alignment tool), I'm about at 650whp and it works perfectly. Then a 370z master cylinder, and concept Z heavy duty CSC. I didn't want to go with the concept Z CSC delete that seems to be the best option, but anyways I'd like to try this one first.

If I had to do it again, I think I could do it in only one day this time, I see everything much clearer and I don't consider it a hard job now.

Good thing I decided to change everything else inside, because clutch took a lot of fluid that the CSC leaked and spilled everywhere.

Nothing but time lol my Z has been out of commission since 04/2020.

Let me know if you want additional practice on this for muscle memory and becoming an expert. I know just the car you can practice on

Chaotic Tanuk · 09-14-2022, 03:55 PM

I recently did mine, I took my sweet time with it as it is time consuming, and my garage was hot as heck. As someone mentioned "The Carizon" has a good two-part video. There are FSM's floating around here as well that have all torque specs needed. A few good extensions are worth it for sure. I had two 20-inch 1/2 inch Kobalt extensions that helped out a ton. Transmission Jack, A good torque wrench, 10mm Flare Nut wrench to remove the old clutch lines, thread locker (I used Loctite 243 as it was supposed to be "oil resistant" you can buy it on Amazon for about 13 dollars, the bottle looks red, but the liquid is blue) or I've seen and read people just using Loctite 242.

Removing the transmission and replacing the parts is relatively easy. I also lost a lot of time putting the transmission back in lol which I found hilarious, but I guess its always easier to disassemble something rather than reassemble it. I did it by myself but doing it with someone else I would imagine would be much easier. My issue is I had a tiny gap that was even all the way around between the transmission and engine, bolt hole lined up as well. So, I ended up doing what most people say not to do and put in one bolt onto each side of the transmission, threaded it by hand on each side and slowly tighten them with a rachet, making sure each side was even. I did that with the plan of if I felt ANY resistance I would stop and back out.

Also, if you are doing the ZSpeed upgrade, I had to remove the Driver Side Catalytic Converter as I couldn't think of any other way to remove and install the new clutch line, but maybe someone else has an easier way of doing it.

Worth it in the end, I learned a ton which was my initial goal.

vtec to vvel · 09-18-2022, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chaotic Tanuk

I recently did mine, I took my sweet time with it as it is time consuming, and my garage was hot as heck. As someone mentioned "The Carizon" has a good two-part video. There are FSM's floating around here as well that have all torque specs needed. A few good extensions are worth it for sure. I had two 20-inch 1/2 inch Kobalt extensions that helped out a ton. Transmission Jack, A good torque wrench, 10mm Flare Nut wrench to remove the old clutch lines, thread locker (I used Loctite 243 as it was supposed to be "oil resistant" you can buy it on Amazon for about 13 dollars, the bottle looks red, but the liquid is blue) or I've seen and read people just using Loctite 242.

Removing the transmission and replacing the parts is relatively easy. I also lost a lot of time putting the transmission back in lol which I found hilarious, but I guess its always easier to disassemble something rather than reassemble it. I did it by myself but doing it with someone else I would imagine would be much easier. My issue is I had a tiny gap that was even all the way around between the transmission and engine, bolt hole lined up as well. So, I ended up doing what most people say not to do and put in one bolt onto each side of the transmission, threaded it by hand on each side and slowly tighten them with a rachet, making sure each side was even. I did that with the plan of if I felt ANY resistance I would stop and back out.

Also, if you are doing the ZSpeed upgrade, I had to remove the Driver Side Catalytic Converter as I couldn't think of any other way to remove and install the new clutch line, but maybe someone else has an easier way of doing it.

Worth it in the end, I learned a ton which was my initial goal.

Good info! No detail too small and every detail is paramount for this process I'm sure, and really appreciate you taking the time and responding.

I also stumbled upon the following thread, so I am assuming don't crank the engine? lol

Engine cranked backwards by hand won’t start

vtec to vvel · 09-18-2022, 04:58 PM

I'm literally getting ready to take this on, and do other stuff while down there (i.e. tranny fluid change, oil change, rear diff fluid change, brake pads, etc.).

Dreadnaught · 09-18-2022, 05:58 PM

Good call on performing other maintenance items while doing this job. There's no need to crank the engine while doing this job. When it comes to taking the shift knob off I just used a strap wrench and put it directly in the middle of the shift knob and used some muscle and it came off without damaging the shift knob.

After that I just removed the shift boot area and sat it aside. There's no need to remove the piece underneath it as stated in Nissans work shop manual. Once you're under the car, you can unbolt the bracket (2 bolts on each side) from the trans and the shift stick per say from the rod that comes out of the back of the transmission. This bolt will be covered by a rubber boot. No need to remove it as stated in the manual so you don't have to install it back in sequence as stated in the work shop manual.

Once these 5 bolts are off, just lower the back of the trans by unbolting the trans mount and lower the trans with a floor jack and the bracket will have enough room to come out. Install in reverse order.

If you're planning on replacing the flywheel and clutch, I would buy new OEM flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts. Definitely ensure that the torx socket for the flywheel bolts isn't worn and that the socket is held in firmly so as to not possible round them out. If doing this, get a chain wrench to hold the crank pulley in place and cover the crank pulley with tape so you do not blemish the crank pulley and have someone hold the crank in place. Definitely think about replacing your rear main seal and pilot bushing too. Let me know if you need help on removing and installing those.

Chaotic Tanuk · 09-19-2022, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

Good info! No detail too small and every detail is paramount for this process I'm sure, and really appreciate you taking the time and responding.

I also stumbled upon the following thread, so I am assuming don't crank the engine? lol

Engine cranked backwards by hand won’t start

I saw that thread as well. When I removed the Flywheel I just used the two bolts and a wrench trick. Thread a transmission bolt back to its original hole by hand. Thread an original pressure plate bolt back in. Place a wrench in between both bolts so that when you try and loosen the flywheel bolts the flywheel doesn't move. I also used the trick to tighten the flywheel bolts as well. The flywheel moved on a me a few times but I did not have the "won't crank issue" stated in the thread above.

Chaotic Tanuk · 09-19-2022, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dreadnaught

Good call on performing other maintenance items while doing this job. There's no need to crank the engine while doing this job. When it comes to taking the shift knob I just used a strap wrench and put it directly in the middle of the shift knob and used some muscle and it came off without damaging the shift knob.

After that I just removed the shift boot area and sat it aside. There's no need to remove the piece underneath it as stated in Nissans work shop manual. Once you're under the car, you can unbolt the bracket (2 on each side) from the trans and the shift stick per say from the rod that comes out of the back of the transmission. This bolt will be covered by a rubber boot. No need to remove it as stated in the manual so you don't have to install it back in sequence as stated in the work shop manual.

Once these 5 bolts are off, just lower the back if the trans by unbolting the trans mount and lower the trans with a floor jack and the bracket will have enough room to come out. Install in reverse order.

If you're planning on replacing the flywheel and clutch, I would buy new OEM flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts. Definitely ensure that the torx socket for the flywheel bolts isn't worn and that the socket is held in firmly so as to not possible round them out. If doing this, get a chain wrench to hold the crank pulley in place and cover the crank pulley with tape so you do not blemish the crank pulley and have someone hold the crank in place. Definitely think about replacing your rear main seal and pilot bushing too. Let me know if you need help on removing and installing those.

Good Call on the new hardware for both Flywheel and Pressure Plate. I did the same as well. Though I did not replace the main seal (Car was currently at 16k Miles, hopefully I don't regret it

I did replace the Pilot bushing. And crush washers for the transmission since I drain out the OEM stuff to put Redline Fluid in.

Dreadnaught · 09-19-2022, 04:08 PM

You won't regret not replacing the rear main seal. I did so just because I'm almost at 100k and I figured I might as well do it since everything was apart as well.

The rear main looks stout to me and I don't think I've see people having their rear main seal leak.

vtec to vvel · 09-20-2022, 09:27 PM

I also happen to see this thread. Is there something I should watch out for/not do to prevent breaking the u-joint?

DriveShaft rear u-joint

vtec to vvel · 09-20-2022, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dreadnaught

Good call on performing other maintenance items while doing this job. There's no need to crank the engine while doing this job. When it comes to taking the shift knob off I just used a strap wrench and put it directly in the middle of the shift knob and used some muscle and it came off without damaging the shift knob.

After that I just removed the shift boot area and sat it aside. There's no need to remove the piece underneath it as stated in Nissans work shop manual. Once you're under the car, you can unbolt the bracket (2 on each side) from the trans and the shift stick per say from the rod that comes out of the back of the transmission. This bolt will be covered by a rubber boot. No need to remove it as stated in the manual so you don't have to install it back in sequence as stated in the work shop manual.

Once these 5 bolts are off, just lower the back of the trans by unbolting the trans mount and lower the trans with a floor jack and the bracket will have enough room to come out. Install in reverse order.

If you're planning on replacing the flywheel and clutch, I would buy new OEM flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts. Definitely ensure that the torx socket for the flywheel bolts isn't worn and that the socket is held in firmly so as to not possible round them out. If doing this, get a chain wrench to hold the crank pulley in place and cover the crank pulley with tape so you do not blemish the crank pulley and have someone hold the crank in place. Definitely think about replacing your rear main seal and pilot bushing too. Let me know if you need help on removing and installing those.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chaotic Tanuk

I saw that thread as well. When I removed the Flywheel I just used the two bolts and a wrench trick. Thread a transmission bolt back to its original hole by hand. Thread an original pressure plate bolt back in. Place a wrench in between both bolts so that when you try and loosen the flywheel bolts the flywheel doesn't move. I also used the trick to tighten the flywheel bolts as well. The flywheel moved on a me a few times but I did not have the "won't crank issue" stated in the thread above.

Absolute GOLD!!!!!

Rusty · 09-20-2022, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

I also happen to see this thread. Is there something I should watch out for/not do to prevent breaking the u-joint?

DriveShaft rear u-joint

Match mark the drive shaft and flange with a paint stick before you take it off.

vtec to vvel · 10-19-2024, 03:43 AM

Going on 1 month since getting the Z finally fixed. Haven't really driven her and put maybe about 200 miles so far. Been having too much fun with the new ride.

Going easy on the Z for 1K miles for the clutch settle-in period. Car has 41K miles and it looked like the previous owner had already switched the clutch (ACT I believe?) and also with a single-mass flywheel. Either way, swapped everything out with the ZSpeed Kit (CMAK/Clutch/Flywheel).

1. I can't say that I notice a difference, other than the clutch pedal engagement point being noticeably lower than OEM. Is this normal?

2. As the car warms up and driving around, the clutch pedal feels a bit "rougher" compared to when first cold-starting and driving. After driving about 30 minutes, the best I can describe the "rougher" feel is the clutch pedal feels a bit stiffer to push down and almost feels like it's slipping (but it's not and can change gears/drive normally). Normal?

09-10-2022, 10:45 PM	#16 (permalink)
vtec to vvel A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: 813 Posts: 3,915 Drives: 13 Z Rep Power: 502909	Convinced more than ever to do this myself. Just weighing out options, I called/spoke with 2 different Nissan Service Dept and both persons I spoke with claimed to be the "Z and GTR Specialist". After explaining the situation: 1. Both "specialists" tried to bully me into going with OEM parts vs the ZSpeed Kit I'd be providing. I asked why go OEM if it's prone to fail anyway, to which they replied that OEM parts have warranty. I informed them that the warranty doesn't mean anything to me if it's prone to fail anyway. 2. One of the "specialists" took the time to look up the part from ZSpeed and was picking it apart and kept referring back to Nissan engineers that designed the car knows it the best. I asked if they knew the car so well, why hasn't the CSC issue been addressed/fixed since the 2007 350Z's? 3. Both "specialists" denied any known issues with the CSC, as in they have never heard of this issue before, at which point I hung up. Luckily, I at least got a warning that the CSC was going out, and not nearly as bad as some of the stories I've read on this forum. IMO, this is a huge safety issue, so I'm shocked that Nissan has not issued a recall or a lawsuit in favor of this getting fixed by Nissan. sx moneypit, ZontheRocks and BettyZ like this. __________________ Don't like what I post? Too bad. I really don't give a sh!t

09-14-2022, 03:55 PM	#19 (permalink)
Chaotic Tanuk Base Member Join Date: Nov 2021 Location: TX Posts: 4 Drives: 17 Nissan 370z Sport Rep Power: 3359	I recently did mine, I took my sweet time with it as it is time consuming, and my garage was hot as heck. As someone mentioned "The Carizon" has a good two-part video. There are FSM's floating around here as well that have all torque specs needed. A few good extensions are worth it for sure. I had two 20-inch 1/2 inch Kobalt extensions that helped out a ton. Transmission Jack, A good torque wrench, 10mm Flare Nut wrench to remove the old clutch lines, thread locker (I used Loctite 243 as it was supposed to be "oil resistant" you can buy it on Amazon for about 13 dollars, the bottle looks red, but the liquid is blue) or I've seen and read people just using Loctite 242. Removing the transmission and replacing the parts is relatively easy. I also lost a lot of time putting the transmission back in lol which I found hilarious, but I guess its always easier to disassemble something rather than reassemble it. I did it by myself but doing it with someone else I would imagine would be much easier. My issue is I had a tiny gap that was even all the way around between the transmission and engine, bolt hole lined up as well. So, I ended up doing what most people say not to do and put in one bolt onto each side of the transmission, threaded it by hand on each side and slowly tighten them with a rachet, making sure each side was even. I did that with the plan of if I felt ANY resistance I would stop and back out. Also, if you are doing the ZSpeed upgrade, I had to remove the Driver Side Catalytic Converter as I couldn't think of any other way to remove and install the new clutch line, but maybe someone else has an easier way of doing it. Worth it in the end, I learned a ton which was my initial goal. Rusty, sx moneypit, vtec to vvel and 3 others like this.

09-18-2022, 04:58 PM	#21 (permalink)
vtec to vvel A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: 813 Posts: 3,915 Drives: 13 Z Rep Power: 502909	I'm literally getting ready to take this on, and do other stuff while down there (i.e. tranny fluid change, oil change, rear diff fluid change, brake pads, etc.). ZontheRocks and Chaotic Tanuk like this. __________________ Don't like what I post? Too bad. I really don't give a sh!t

09-18-2022, 05:58 PM	#22 (permalink)
Dreadnaught Track Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Farmington, Utah Posts: 582 Drives: 14 SR 370z 6MT Rep Power: 10140	Good call on performing other maintenance items while doing this job. There's no need to crank the engine while doing this job. When it comes to taking the shift knob off I just used a strap wrench and put it directly in the middle of the shift knob and used some muscle and it came off without damaging the shift knob. After that I just removed the shift boot area and sat it aside. There's no need to remove the piece underneath it as stated in Nissans work shop manual. Once you're under the car, you can unbolt the bracket (2 bolts on each side) from the trans and the shift stick per say from the rod that comes out of the back of the transmission. This bolt will be covered by a rubber boot. No need to remove it as stated in the manual so you don't have to install it back in sequence as stated in the work shop manual. Once these 5 bolts are off, just lower the back of the trans by unbolting the trans mount and lower the trans with a floor jack and the bracket will have enough room to come out. Install in reverse order. If you're planning on replacing the flywheel and clutch, I would buy new OEM flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts. Definitely ensure that the torx socket for the flywheel bolts isn't worn and that the socket is held in firmly so as to not possible round them out. If doing this, get a chain wrench to hold the crank pulley in place and cover the crank pulley with tape so you do not blemish the crank pulley and have someone hold the crank in place. Definitely think about replacing your rear main seal and pilot bushing too. Let me know if you need help on removing and installing those. sx moneypit, ZontheRocks and Chaotic Tanuk like this. __________________ Ford Diesel and Heavy Line Technician at your service. Last edited by Dreadnaught; 09-21-2022 at 03:42 AM.

09-19-2022, 04:08 PM	#25 (permalink)
Dreadnaught Track Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Farmington, Utah Posts: 582 Drives: 14 SR 370z 6MT Rep Power: 10140	You won't regret not replacing the rear main seal. I did so just because I'm almost at 100k and I figured I might as well do it since everything was apart as well. The rear main looks stout to me and I don't think I've see people having their rear main seal leak. vtec to vvel and Chaotic Tanuk like this. __________________ Ford Diesel and Heavy Line Technician at your service.

09-20-2022, 09:27 PM	#26 (permalink)
vtec to vvel A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: 813 Posts: 3,915 Drives: 13 Z Rep Power: 502909	I also happen to see this thread. Is there something I should watch out for/not do to prevent breaking the u-joint? DriveShaft rear u-joint __________________ Don't like what I post? Too bad. I really don't give a sh!t

10-19-2024, 03:43 AM	#29 (permalink)
vtec to vvel A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: 813 Posts: 3,915 Drives: 13 Z Rep Power: 502909	Going on 1 month since getting the Z finally fixed. Haven't really driven her and put maybe about 200 miles so far. Been having too much fun with the new ride. Going easy on the Z for 1K miles for the clutch settle-in period. Car has 41K miles and it looked like the previous owner had already switched the clutch (ACT I believe?) and also with a single-mass flywheel. Either way, swapped everything out with the ZSpeed Kit (CMAK/Clutch/Flywheel). 1. I can't say that I notice a difference, other than the clutch pedal engagement point being noticeably lower than OEM. Is this normal? 2. As the car warms up and driving around, the clutch pedal feels a bit "rougher" compared to when first cold-starting and driving. After driving about 30 minutes, the best I can describe the "rougher" feel is the clutch pedal feels a bit stiffer to push down and almost feels like it's slipping (but it's not and can change gears/drive normally). Normal? __________________ Don't like what I post? Too bad. I really don't give a sh!t