Mc & csc

Dreadnaught · 09-18-2022, 04:58 PM

Good call on performing other maintenance items while doing this job. There's no need to crank the engine while doing this job. When it comes to taking the shift knob off I just used a strap wrench and put it directly in the middle of the shift knob and used some muscle and it came off without damaging the shift knob.

After that I just removed the shift boot area and sat it aside. There's no need to remove the piece underneath it as stated in Nissans work shop manual. Once you're under the car, you can unbolt the bracket (2 bolts on each side) from the trans and the shift stick per say from the rod that comes out of the back of the transmission. This bolt will be covered by a rubber boot. No need to remove it as stated in the manual so you don't have to install it back in sequence as stated in the work shop manual.

Once these 5 bolts are off, just lower the back of the trans by unbolting the trans mount and lower the trans with a floor jack and the bracket will have enough room to come out. Install in reverse order.

If you're planning on replacing the flywheel and clutch, I would buy new OEM flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts. Definitely ensure that the torx socket for the flywheel bolts isn't worn and that the socket is held in firmly so as to not possible round them out. If doing this, get a chain wrench to hold the crank pulley in place and cover the crank pulley with tape so you do not blemish the crank pulley and have someone hold the crank in place. Definitely think about replacing your rear main seal and pilot bushing too. Let me know if you need help on removing and installing those.

Chaotic Tanuk · 09-19-2022, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dreadnaught

Good call on performing other maintenance items while doing this job. There's no need to crank the engine while doing this job. When it comes to taking the shift knob I just used a strap wrench and put it directly in the middle of the shift knob and used some muscle and it came off without damaging the shift knob.

After that I just removed the shift boot area and sat it aside. There's no need to remove the piece underneath it as stated in Nissans work shop manual. Once you're under the car, you can unbolt the bracket (2 on each side) from the trans and the shift stick per say from the rod that comes out of the back of the transmission. This bolt will be covered by a rubber boot. No need to remove it as stated in the manual so you don't have to install it back in sequence as stated in the work shop manual.

Once these 5 bolts are off, just lower the back if the trans by unbolting the trans mount and lower the trans with a floor jack and the bracket will have enough room to come out. Install in reverse order.

If you're planning on replacing the flywheel and clutch, I would buy new OEM flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts. Definitely ensure that the torx socket for the flywheel bolts isn't worn and that the socket is held in firmly so as to not possible round them out. If doing this, get a chain wrench to hold the crank pulley in place and cover the crank pulley with tape so you do not blemish the crank pulley and have someone hold the crank in place. Definitely think about replacing your rear main seal and pilot bushing too. Let me know if you need help on removing and installing those.

Good Call on the new hardware for both Flywheel and Pressure Plate. I did the same as well. Though I did not replace the main seal (Car was currently at 16k Miles, hopefully I don't regret it

I did replace the Pilot bushing. And crush washers for the transmission since I drain out the OEM stuff to put Redline Fluid in.

Dreadnaught · 09-19-2022, 03:08 PM

You won't regret not replacing the rear main seal. I did so just because I'm almost at 100k and I figured I might as well do it since everything was apart as well.

The rear main looks stout to me and I don't think I've see people having their rear main seal leak.

09-18-2022, 04:58 PM	#1 (permalink)
Dreadnaught Track Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Farmington, Utah Posts: 582 Drives: 14 SR 370z 6MT Rep Power: 10140	Good call on performing other maintenance items while doing this job. There's no need to crank the engine while doing this job. When it comes to taking the shift knob off I just used a strap wrench and put it directly in the middle of the shift knob and used some muscle and it came off without damaging the shift knob. After that I just removed the shift boot area and sat it aside. There's no need to remove the piece underneath it as stated in Nissans work shop manual. Once you're under the car, you can unbolt the bracket (2 bolts on each side) from the trans and the shift stick per say from the rod that comes out of the back of the transmission. This bolt will be covered by a rubber boot. No need to remove it as stated in the manual so you don't have to install it back in sequence as stated in the work shop manual. Once these 5 bolts are off, just lower the back of the trans by unbolting the trans mount and lower the trans with a floor jack and the bracket will have enough room to come out. Install in reverse order. If you're planning on replacing the flywheel and clutch, I would buy new OEM flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts. Definitely ensure that the torx socket for the flywheel bolts isn't worn and that the socket is held in firmly so as to not possible round them out. If doing this, get a chain wrench to hold the crank pulley in place and cover the crank pulley with tape so you do not blemish the crank pulley and have someone hold the crank in place. Definitely think about replacing your rear main seal and pilot bushing too. Let me know if you need help on removing and installing those. sx moneypit, ZontheRocks and Chaotic Tanuk like this. __________________ Ford Diesel and Heavy Line Technician at your service. Last edited by Dreadnaught; 09-21-2022 at 02:42 AM.

09-19-2022, 03:08 PM	#3 (permalink)
Dreadnaught Track Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Farmington, Utah Posts: 582 Drives: 14 SR 370z 6MT Rep Power: 10140	You won't regret not replacing the rear main seal. I did so just because I'm almost at 100k and I figured I might as well do it since everything was apart as well. The rear main looks stout to me and I don't think I've see people having their rear main seal leak. vtec to vvel and Chaotic Tanuk like this. __________________ Ford Diesel and Heavy Line Technician at your service.