Mc & csc

FX-32 · 09-10-2022, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

I REALLY appreciate your response! Knowledge is power and any advice/tips/etc. is MUCH appreciated

Did you have help or did you do this by yourself?

I did it 99% alone by myself, I had such a HARD time aligning it back into the engine that I called a friend and we put it back in quickly. Again, my mistake was the transmission jack, get a good one with as much adjustment as possible and you should be able to do it alone if time isn't an issue.

I went with Z1 lightweight flywheel and full face clutch kit (comes with pilot bushing and alignment tool), I'm about at 650whp and it works perfectly. Then a 370z master cylinder, and concept Z heavy duty CSC. I didn't want to go with the concept Z CSC delete that seems to be the best option, but anyways I'd like to try this one first.

If I had to do it again, I think I could do it in only one day this time, I see everything much clearer and I don't consider it a hard job now.

Good thing I decided to change everything else inside, because clutch took a lot of fluid that the CSC leaked and spilled everywhere.

vtec to vvel · 09-10-2022, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FX-32

I did it 99% alone by myself, I had such a HARD time aligning it back into the engine that I called a friend and we put it back in quickly. Again, my mistake was the transmission jack, get a good one with as much adjustment as possible and you should be able to do it alone if time isn't an issue.

I went with Z1 lightweight flywheel and full face clutch kit (comes with pilot bushing and alignment tool), I'm about at 650whp and it works perfectly. Then a 370z master cylinder, and concept Z heavy duty CSC. I didn't want to go with the concept Z CSC delete that seems to be the best option, but anyways I'd like to try this one first.

If I had to do it again, I think I could do it in only one day this time, I see everything much clearer and I don't consider it a hard job now.

Good thing I decided to change everything else inside, because clutch took a lot of fluid that the CSC leaked and spilled everywhere.

Nothing but time lol my Z has been out of commission since 04/2020.

Let me know if you want additional practice on this for muscle memory and becoming an expert. I know just the car you can practice on

Chaotic Tanuk · 09-14-2022, 02:55 PM

I recently did mine, I took my sweet time with it as it is time consuming, and my garage was hot as heck. As someone mentioned "The Carizon" has a good two-part video. There are FSM's floating around here as well that have all torque specs needed. A few good extensions are worth it for sure. I had two 20-inch 1/2 inch Kobalt extensions that helped out a ton. Transmission Jack, A good torque wrench, 10mm Flare Nut wrench to remove the old clutch lines, thread locker (I used Loctite 243 as it was supposed to be "oil resistant" you can buy it on Amazon for about 13 dollars, the bottle looks red, but the liquid is blue) or I've seen and read people just using Loctite 242.

Removing the transmission and replacing the parts is relatively easy. I also lost a lot of time putting the transmission back in lol which I found hilarious, but I guess its always easier to disassemble something rather than reassemble it. I did it by myself but doing it with someone else I would imagine would be much easier. My issue is I had a tiny gap that was even all the way around between the transmission and engine, bolt hole lined up as well. So, I ended up doing what most people say not to do and put in one bolt onto each side of the transmission, threaded it by hand on each side and slowly tighten them with a rachet, making sure each side was even. I did that with the plan of if I felt ANY resistance I would stop and back out.

Also, if you are doing the ZSpeed upgrade, I had to remove the Driver Side Catalytic Converter as I couldn't think of any other way to remove and install the new clutch line, but maybe someone else has an easier way of doing it.

Worth it in the end, I learned a ton which was my initial goal.

vtec to vvel · 09-18-2022, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chaotic Tanuk

I recently did mine, I took my sweet time with it as it is time consuming, and my garage was hot as heck. As someone mentioned "The Carizon" has a good two-part video. There are FSM's floating around here as well that have all torque specs needed. A few good extensions are worth it for sure. I had two 20-inch 1/2 inch Kobalt extensions that helped out a ton. Transmission Jack, A good torque wrench, 10mm Flare Nut wrench to remove the old clutch lines, thread locker (I used Loctite 243 as it was supposed to be "oil resistant" you can buy it on Amazon for about 13 dollars, the bottle looks red, but the liquid is blue) or I've seen and read people just using Loctite 242.

Removing the transmission and replacing the parts is relatively easy. I also lost a lot of time putting the transmission back in lol which I found hilarious, but I guess its always easier to disassemble something rather than reassemble it. I did it by myself but doing it with someone else I would imagine would be much easier. My issue is I had a tiny gap that was even all the way around between the transmission and engine, bolt hole lined up as well. So, I ended up doing what most people say not to do and put in one bolt onto each side of the transmission, threaded it by hand on each side and slowly tighten them with a rachet, making sure each side was even. I did that with the plan of if I felt ANY resistance I would stop and back out.

Also, if you are doing the ZSpeed upgrade, I had to remove the Driver Side Catalytic Converter as I couldn't think of any other way to remove and install the new clutch line, but maybe someone else has an easier way of doing it.

Worth it in the end, I learned a ton which was my initial goal.

Good info! No detail too small and every detail is paramount for this process I'm sure, and really appreciate you taking the time and responding.

I also stumbled upon the following thread, so I am assuming don't crank the engine? lol

Engine cranked backwards by hand won’t start

Chaotic Tanuk · 09-19-2022, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

Good info! No detail too small and every detail is paramount for this process I'm sure, and really appreciate you taking the time and responding.

I also stumbled upon the following thread, so I am assuming don't crank the engine? lol

Engine cranked backwards by hand won’t start

I saw that thread as well. When I removed the Flywheel I just used the two bolts and a wrench trick. Thread a transmission bolt back to its original hole by hand. Thread an original pressure plate bolt back in. Place a wrench in between both bolts so that when you try and loosen the flywheel bolts the flywheel doesn't move. I also used the trick to tighten the flywheel bolts as well. The flywheel moved on a me a few times but I did not have the "won't crank issue" stated in the thread above.

vtec to vvel · 09-20-2022, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dreadnaught

Good call on performing other maintenance items while doing this job. There's no need to crank the engine while doing this job. When it comes to taking the shift knob off I just used a strap wrench and put it directly in the middle of the shift knob and used some muscle and it came off without damaging the shift knob.

After that I just removed the shift boot area and sat it aside. There's no need to remove the piece underneath it as stated in Nissans work shop manual. Once you're under the car, you can unbolt the bracket (2 on each side) from the trans and the shift stick per say from the rod that comes out of the back of the transmission. This bolt will be covered by a rubber boot. No need to remove it as stated in the manual so you don't have to install it back in sequence as stated in the work shop manual.

Once these 5 bolts are off, just lower the back of the trans by unbolting the trans mount and lower the trans with a floor jack and the bracket will have enough room to come out. Install in reverse order.

If you're planning on replacing the flywheel and clutch, I would buy new OEM flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts. Definitely ensure that the torx socket for the flywheel bolts isn't worn and that the socket is held in firmly so as to not possible round them out. If doing this, get a chain wrench to hold the crank pulley in place and cover the crank pulley with tape so you do not blemish the crank pulley and have someone hold the crank in place. Definitely think about replacing your rear main seal and pilot bushing too. Let me know if you need help on removing and installing those.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chaotic Tanuk

I saw that thread as well. When I removed the Flywheel I just used the two bolts and a wrench trick. Thread a transmission bolt back to its original hole by hand. Thread an original pressure plate bolt back in. Place a wrench in between both bolts so that when you try and loosen the flywheel bolts the flywheel doesn't move. I also used the trick to tighten the flywheel bolts as well. The flywheel moved on a me a few times but I did not have the "won't crank issue" stated in the thread above.

Absolute GOLD!!!!!

09-14-2022, 02:55 PM	#3 (permalink)
Chaotic Tanuk Base Member Join Date: Nov 2021 Location: TX Posts: 4 Drives: 17 Nissan 370z Sport Rep Power: 3359	I recently did mine, I took my sweet time with it as it is time consuming, and my garage was hot as heck. As someone mentioned "The Carizon" has a good two-part video. There are FSM's floating around here as well that have all torque specs needed. A few good extensions are worth it for sure. I had two 20-inch 1/2 inch Kobalt extensions that helped out a ton. Transmission Jack, A good torque wrench, 10mm Flare Nut wrench to remove the old clutch lines, thread locker (I used Loctite 243 as it was supposed to be "oil resistant" you can buy it on Amazon for about 13 dollars, the bottle looks red, but the liquid is blue) or I've seen and read people just using Loctite 242. Removing the transmission and replacing the parts is relatively easy. I also lost a lot of time putting the transmission back in lol which I found hilarious, but I guess its always easier to disassemble something rather than reassemble it. I did it by myself but doing it with someone else I would imagine would be much easier. My issue is I had a tiny gap that was even all the way around between the transmission and engine, bolt hole lined up as well. So, I ended up doing what most people say not to do and put in one bolt onto each side of the transmission, threaded it by hand on each side and slowly tighten them with a rachet, making sure each side was even. I did that with the plan of if I felt ANY resistance I would stop and back out. Also, if you are doing the ZSpeed upgrade, I had to remove the Driver Side Catalytic Converter as I couldn't think of any other way to remove and install the new clutch line, but maybe someone else has an easier way of doing it. Worth it in the end, I learned a ton which was my initial goal. Rusty, sx moneypit, vtec to vvel and 3 others like this.