Mc & csc

FX-32 · 09-09-2022, 08:36 AM

I did mine recently, two months ago, I was at the ATL airport "parked"/waiting in a non appropriate spot waiting for a friend to come off the arrivals door, and a police officer turned on the red blue lights, OK time to move I said, clutch in, First and... nope!! all of the sudden my CSC failed right there in the worst possible moment. I forced first gear and eventually it got in. I know it's risky but I was a bit scared of all that situation.

I parked as quickly as I could and checked Fluid level, it was good, but quickly it got empty after a few pumps.

So that same weekend I dropped my transmission, on four 6ton jack stands, and it took me 16 hours on Saturday, and 8 hours on Sunday. I didn't bleed it because I wanted to replace the master cylinder as well to start fresh with new parts, that took me about three more hours (I have a G37 and the master is bigger than the 370z, so it was harder to remove it, eventually it got out, and I put a 370z master. The only difference is that the G37 master has a damper to absorb vibrations and give a more luxurious feel... I noticed zero difference with my new 370z master cylinder)

If you already did it in the past, I suggest looking up for THE CARIZON videos related to transmission. I highly appreciate his videos, I wouldn't do it if it weren't for him doing such a great DIY guide.

The only part that gave me a hard time was to put the transmission back in! I lost about 6 or 7 hours, it was extremely frustrating but eventually it got in.

I purchased a Harbor freight transmission jack, the cheapest one (about $125) and that was the issue, it lacks of adjustability. It would been much easier with a better jack, I didn't want to cheap out, I just didn't know.

The transmission jack used by THE CARIZON looks pretty good, I suggest getting one like that.

Also, you could upgrade flywheel and clutch as well, pilot bushing, and maybe rear main seal (I didn't change it).

Get a decent quality torque wrench, and if your exhaust hardware is rusted, buy new bolts and nuts as well so if you need to use a grinder to remove them, you already have a good replacement.

I would say it's a pretty straightforward job, it's not really hard hard, but it's time consuming. I didn't hurry at all and wanted to take my time.

I didn't drain my transmission fluid and I didn't spill anything either, while removing the driveshaft.

vtec to vvel · 09-09-2022, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FX-32

I did mine recently, two months ago, I was at the ATL airport "parked"/waiting in a non appropriate spot waiting for a friend to come off the arrivals door, and a police officer turned on the red blue lights, OK time to move I said, clutch in, First and... nope!! all of the sudden my CSC failed right there in the worst possible moment. I forced first gear and eventually it got in. I know it's risky but I was a bit scared of all that situation.

I parked as quickly as I could and checked Fluid level, it was good, but quickly it got empty after a few pumps.

So that same weekend I dropped my transmission, on four 6ton jack stands, and it took me 16 hours on Saturday, and 8 hours on Sunday. I didn't bleed it because I wanted to replace the master cylinder as well to start fresh with new parts, that took me about three more hours (I have a G37 and the master is bigger than the 370z, so it was harder to remove it, eventually it got out, and I put a 370z master. The only difference is that the G37 master has a damper to absorb vibrations and give a more luxurious feel... I noticed zero difference with my new 370z master cylinder)

If you already did it in the past, I suggest looking up for THE CARIZON videos related to transmission. I highly appreciate his videos, I wouldn't do it if it weren't for him doing such a great DIY guide.

The only part that gave me a hard time was to put the transmission back in! I lost about 6 or 7 hours, it was extremely frustrating but eventually it got in.

I purchased a Harbor freight transmission jack, the cheapest one (about $125) and that was the issue, it lacks of adjustability. It would been much easier with a better jack, I didn't want to cheap out, I just didn't know.

The transmission jack used by THE CARIZON looks pretty good, I suggest getting one like that.

Also, you could upgrade flywheel and clutch as well, pilot bushing, and maybe rear main seal (I didn't change it).

Get a decent quality torque wrench, and if your exhaust hardware is rusted, buy new bolts and nuts as well so if you need to use a grinder to remove them, you already have a good replacement.

I would say it's a pretty straightforward job, it's not really hard hard, but it's time consuming. I didn't hurry at all and wanted to take my time.

I didn't drain my transmission fluid and I didn't spill anything either, while removing the driveshaft.

I REALLY appreciate your response! Knowledge is power and any advice/tips/etc. is MUCH appreciated

Did you have help or did you do this by yourself?

FX-32 · 09-10-2022, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

I REALLY appreciate your response! Knowledge is power and any advice/tips/etc. is MUCH appreciated

Did you have help or did you do this by yourself?

I did it 99% alone by myself, I had such a HARD time aligning it back into the engine that I called a friend and we put it back in quickly. Again, my mistake was the transmission jack, get a good one with as much adjustment as possible and you should be able to do it alone if time isn't an issue.

I went with Z1 lightweight flywheel and full face clutch kit (comes with pilot bushing and alignment tool), I'm about at 650whp and it works perfectly. Then a 370z master cylinder, and concept Z heavy duty CSC. I didn't want to go with the concept Z CSC delete that seems to be the best option, but anyways I'd like to try this one first.

If I had to do it again, I think I could do it in only one day this time, I see everything much clearer and I don't consider it a hard job now.

Good thing I decided to change everything else inside, because clutch took a lot of fluid that the CSC leaked and spilled everywhere.

vtec to vvel · 09-10-2022, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FX-32

I did it 99% alone by myself, I had such a HARD time aligning it back into the engine that I called a friend and we put it back in quickly. Again, my mistake was the transmission jack, get a good one with as much adjustment as possible and you should be able to do it alone if time isn't an issue.

I went with Z1 lightweight flywheel and full face clutch kit (comes with pilot bushing and alignment tool), I'm about at 650whp and it works perfectly. Then a 370z master cylinder, and concept Z heavy duty CSC. I didn't want to go with the concept Z CSC delete that seems to be the best option, but anyways I'd like to try this one first.

If I had to do it again, I think I could do it in only one day this time, I see everything much clearer and I don't consider it a hard job now.

Good thing I decided to change everything else inside, because clutch took a lot of fluid that the CSC leaked and spilled everywhere.

Nothing but time lol my Z has been out of commission since 04/2020.

Let me know if you want additional practice on this for muscle memory and becoming an expert. I know just the car you can practice on

Chaotic Tanuk · 09-14-2022, 02:55 PM

I recently did mine, I took my sweet time with it as it is time consuming, and my garage was hot as heck. As someone mentioned "The Carizon" has a good two-part video. There are FSM's floating around here as well that have all torque specs needed. A few good extensions are worth it for sure. I had two 20-inch 1/2 inch Kobalt extensions that helped out a ton. Transmission Jack, A good torque wrench, 10mm Flare Nut wrench to remove the old clutch lines, thread locker (I used Loctite 243 as it was supposed to be "oil resistant" you can buy it on Amazon for about 13 dollars, the bottle looks red, but the liquid is blue) or I've seen and read people just using Loctite 242.

Removing the transmission and replacing the parts is relatively easy. I also lost a lot of time putting the transmission back in lol which I found hilarious, but I guess its always easier to disassemble something rather than reassemble it. I did it by myself but doing it with someone else I would imagine would be much easier. My issue is I had a tiny gap that was even all the way around between the transmission and engine, bolt hole lined up as well. So, I ended up doing what most people say not to do and put in one bolt onto each side of the transmission, threaded it by hand on each side and slowly tighten them with a rachet, making sure each side was even. I did that with the plan of if I felt ANY resistance I would stop and back out.

Also, if you are doing the ZSpeed upgrade, I had to remove the Driver Side Catalytic Converter as I couldn't think of any other way to remove and install the new clutch line, but maybe someone else has an easier way of doing it.

Worth it in the end, I learned a ton which was my initial goal.

vtec to vvel · 09-18-2022, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chaotic Tanuk

I recently did mine, I took my sweet time with it as it is time consuming, and my garage was hot as heck. As someone mentioned "The Carizon" has a good two-part video. There are FSM's floating around here as well that have all torque specs needed. A few good extensions are worth it for sure. I had two 20-inch 1/2 inch Kobalt extensions that helped out a ton. Transmission Jack, A good torque wrench, 10mm Flare Nut wrench to remove the old clutch lines, thread locker (I used Loctite 243 as it was supposed to be "oil resistant" you can buy it on Amazon for about 13 dollars, the bottle looks red, but the liquid is blue) or I've seen and read people just using Loctite 242.

Removing the transmission and replacing the parts is relatively easy. I also lost a lot of time putting the transmission back in lol which I found hilarious, but I guess its always easier to disassemble something rather than reassemble it. I did it by myself but doing it with someone else I would imagine would be much easier. My issue is I had a tiny gap that was even all the way around between the transmission and engine, bolt hole lined up as well. So, I ended up doing what most people say not to do and put in one bolt onto each side of the transmission, threaded it by hand on each side and slowly tighten them with a rachet, making sure each side was even. I did that with the plan of if I felt ANY resistance I would stop and back out.

Also, if you are doing the ZSpeed upgrade, I had to remove the Driver Side Catalytic Converter as I couldn't think of any other way to remove and install the new clutch line, but maybe someone else has an easier way of doing it.

Worth it in the end, I learned a ton which was my initial goal.

Good info! No detail too small and every detail is paramount for this process I'm sure, and really appreciate you taking the time and responding.

I also stumbled upon the following thread, so I am assuming don't crank the engine? lol

Engine cranked backwards by hand won’t start

Chaotic Tanuk · 09-19-2022, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

Good info! No detail too small and every detail is paramount for this process I'm sure, and really appreciate you taking the time and responding.

I also stumbled upon the following thread, so I am assuming don't crank the engine? lol

Engine cranked backwards by hand won’t start

I saw that thread as well. When I removed the Flywheel I just used the two bolts and a wrench trick. Thread a transmission bolt back to its original hole by hand. Thread an original pressure plate bolt back in. Place a wrench in between both bolts so that when you try and loosen the flywheel bolts the flywheel doesn't move. I also used the trick to tighten the flywheel bolts as well. The flywheel moved on a me a few times but I did not have the "won't crank issue" stated in the thread above.

09-09-2022, 08:36 AM	#1 (permalink)
FX-32 Base Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: ATL Posts: 21 Drives: G37s Coupe 6MT ACE Rep Power: 3360	I did mine recently, two months ago, I was at the ATL airport "parked"/waiting in a non appropriate spot waiting for a friend to come off the arrivals door, and a police officer turned on the red blue lights, OK time to move I said, clutch in, First and... nope!! all of the sudden my CSC failed right there in the worst possible moment. I forced first gear and eventually it got in. I know it's risky but I was a bit scared of all that situation. I parked as quickly as I could and checked Fluid level, it was good, but quickly it got empty after a few pumps. So that same weekend I dropped my transmission, on four 6ton jack stands, and it took me 16 hours on Saturday, and 8 hours on Sunday. I didn't bleed it because I wanted to replace the master cylinder as well to start fresh with new parts, that took me about three more hours (I have a G37 and the master is bigger than the 370z, so it was harder to remove it, eventually it got out, and I put a 370z master. The only difference is that the G37 master has a damper to absorb vibrations and give a more luxurious feel... I noticed zero difference with my new 370z master cylinder) If you already did it in the past, I suggest looking up for THE CARIZON videos related to transmission. I highly appreciate his videos, I wouldn't do it if it weren't for him doing such a great DIY guide. The only part that gave me a hard time was to put the transmission back in! I lost about 6 or 7 hours, it was extremely frustrating but eventually it got in. I purchased a Harbor freight transmission jack, the cheapest one (about $125) and that was the issue, it lacks of adjustability. It would been much easier with a better jack, I didn't want to cheap out, I just didn't know. The transmission jack used by THE CARIZON looks pretty good, I suggest getting one like that. Also, you could upgrade flywheel and clutch as well, pilot bushing, and maybe rear main seal (I didn't change it). Get a decent quality torque wrench, and if your exhaust hardware is rusted, buy new bolts and nuts as well so if you need to use a grinder to remove them, you already have a good replacement. I would say it's a pretty straightforward job, it's not really hard hard, but it's time consuming. I didn't hurry at all and wanted to take my time. I didn't drain my transmission fluid and I didn't spill anything either, while removing the driveshaft. vtec to vvel and ZontheRocks like this.

09-14-2022, 02:55 PM	#5 (permalink)
Chaotic Tanuk Base Member Join Date: Nov 2021 Location: TX Posts: 4 Drives: 17 Nissan 370z Sport Rep Power: 3359	I recently did mine, I took my sweet time with it as it is time consuming, and my garage was hot as heck. As someone mentioned "The Carizon" has a good two-part video. There are FSM's floating around here as well that have all torque specs needed. A few good extensions are worth it for sure. I had two 20-inch 1/2 inch Kobalt extensions that helped out a ton. Transmission Jack, A good torque wrench, 10mm Flare Nut wrench to remove the old clutch lines, thread locker (I used Loctite 243 as it was supposed to be "oil resistant" you can buy it on Amazon for about 13 dollars, the bottle looks red, but the liquid is blue) or I've seen and read people just using Loctite 242. Removing the transmission and replacing the parts is relatively easy. I also lost a lot of time putting the transmission back in lol which I found hilarious, but I guess its always easier to disassemble something rather than reassemble it. I did it by myself but doing it with someone else I would imagine would be much easier. My issue is I had a tiny gap that was even all the way around between the transmission and engine, bolt hole lined up as well. So, I ended up doing what most people say not to do and put in one bolt onto each side of the transmission, threaded it by hand on each side and slowly tighten them with a rachet, making sure each side was even. I did that with the plan of if I felt ANY resistance I would stop and back out. Also, if you are doing the ZSpeed upgrade, I had to remove the Driver Side Catalytic Converter as I couldn't think of any other way to remove and install the new clutch line, but maybe someone else has an easier way of doing it. Worth it in the end, I learned a ton which was my initial goal. Rusty, sx moneypit, vtec to vvel and 3 others like this.