Mc & csc

vtec to vvel

So approx. 1 year and 4 months ago, I presumably experienced the notorious CSC issue: clutch fluid would go down and the clutch pedal operates normally, but feels soft after engine gets to operating temps.

During this time was when COVID was at its peak, so wife ended up quitting her job, thus putting me into a financial bind with 1 income to support 2-person bills. The Z basically sat in storage all this time and the repairing had to take a back seat.

Fast forward to now, I am doing better financially and ready to replace the MC and CSC. I have bought a battery tender since and do drive it around the block every other week to get the oil running and prevent flat spots on the tires.

Few questions:

1. Anyone in the Tampa, FL area that's willing to help out taking on this project? I can't find a reputable shop to do this and don't really trust the stealership.

2. If no one can assist, does anyone know/trust a shop in Tampa?

3. I've read mixed reviews about this. and I'll prob catch some heat on this question. The engine oil was last replaced in 09.2020 (yes, coming up on 2 years), but only has 75 miles on it from being in storage. It is 5W-30 full synthetic. I check the oil and is a light tan color still and I understand the viscosity does break down over time and no signs of sludge. How long can I go before I need to change? Not so much a financial issue, but rather time due to having to work a few jobs to makes ends meet (used to be quite active on this forum pre-COVID, and then became a ghost during/post-COVID lol).

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Rusty

If you near me. I would help you out. You should change the oil. From you short drives. You get condensation formation inside the block. When it mixes with oil, you get an acid compound. You need to get the engine up to temp, and run long enough to evaporate the moisture.

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vtec to vvel

I'm all the way down south in Florida lol. Why are you guys so far away??

Just out of curiosity, how long does the engine need to run to evap the water moisture? To clarify, when I drive around the block, there is an expressway next to me so I get her up to speeds of 75 and is prob a 5 miles round trip, and I open her up. But yes, I do need to change it out.

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Dreadnaught

The moisture will start to boil out of the oil when it gets around 212 degrees. Take a 45 minute drive a few times.

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vtec to vvel

I wish I could. Anything more than usually 7 miles, I start to lose clutch fluid and the pedal feels really soft (it doesn’t stay down, but def feel less pressure when pushing down). After the short trip, I typically have to top off the fluid.

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Rusty

Actually the process starts at 110F. If you maintain it at 110F. It will never get moisture in it.

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vtec to vvel

How many people have replaced the MC and CSC themselves? After tons of reading and research, I know it can be a project. Do most people take it to a shop or DIY it?

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Rusty

I'll do mine by myself when the time comes. It depends on your skill set and how comfortable you are at doing something like this.

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Dreadnaught

I haven't done my cluth master cylinder, but, I have done my CSC. While I had my transmission out I replaced the rear main seal, pilot bushing, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate.
I'm a professional technician with 9 years of experience. I did the job with my Z on jack stands in my garage.
Dropping the transmission isn't for someone who can really only just do fluid changes and brakes.

If you want to tackle it yourself self, ask away on how to do the job if you think you can handle it.

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ZoomZ

Rusty is correct about the starting point of 110F. This would be normal for winter driving. However, you need to add time. 1 hour at least. 180F+ is the magic number. Again, 45 min- 1 hour at least in this temp. Start time when you reach 180F+.

This will open up another oil can of worms.

Just do us a favor and drive the car! Dont idle in driveway until you reach "operating temp". The worst thing garage queen owners do. Your better off not running it at all.

vtec to vvel

Very true. In terms of skill set, by no means would I call myself an expert, but I've taken out a tranny before to replace the clutch, though this was a long time ago and it took me a while when I did (back then, awesome forums like this one and youtube didn't exist ). I suppose my biggest fear is the unknown, as replacing the MC and CSC would be a first for me. The other option would be to take it to a shop, but I don't know of any reputable shops around, other than the stealership and who knows if the person working on my car would know what they're doing or if they will actually use the parts I provide.

Believe me, there is nothing more I would love than to actual be able to drive my car. Problem is the CSC/MC is on its way out and after about 15 minutes, the clutch pedal begins to feel soft and clutch fluid level dropping. I suppose I am one of the lucky ones on getting a warning before going out. It's weird because everyone else have posted this issue hit them out of nowhere and no warning. The clutch pedal never has stuck to the floor and always returns, but does have a noticeable softer feel and less pressure after about a 15-min drive, and I do have to top off the fluid every drive (no leaks on the floor, which leads me to believe it's leaking within the housing bell).

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Rusty

If you are losing fluid in the reservoir. The CSC is leaking.

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FX-32

I did mine recently, two months ago, I was at the ATL airport "parked"/waiting in a non appropriate spot waiting for a friend to come off the arrivals door, and a police officer turned on the red blue lights, OK time to move I said, clutch in, First and... nope!! all of the sudden my CSC failed right there in the worst possible moment. I forced first gear and eventually it got in. I know it's risky but I was a bit scared of all that situation.

I parked as quickly as I could and checked Fluid level, it was good, but quickly it got empty after a few pumps.

So that same weekend I dropped my transmission, on four 6ton jack stands, and it took me 16 hours on Saturday, and 8 hours on Sunday. I didn't bleed it because I wanted to replace the master cylinder as well to start fresh with new parts, that took me about three more hours (I have a G37 and the master is bigger than the 370z, so it was harder to remove it, eventually it got out, and I put a 370z master. The only difference is that the G37 master has a damper to absorb vibrations and give a more luxurious feel... I noticed zero difference with my new 370z master cylinder)

If you already did it in the past, I suggest looking up for THE CARIZON videos related to transmission. I highly appreciate his videos, I wouldn't do it if it weren't for him doing such a great DIY guide.

The only part that gave me a hard time was to put the transmission back in! I lost about 6 or 7 hours, it was extremely frustrating but eventually it got in.

I purchased a Harbor freight transmission jack, the cheapest one (about $125) and that was the issue, it lacks of adjustability. It would been much easier with a better jack, I didn't want to cheap out, I just didn't know.

The transmission jack used by THE CARIZON looks pretty good, I suggest getting one like that.

Also, you could upgrade flywheel and clutch as well, pilot bushing, and maybe rear main seal (I didn't change it).

Get a decent quality torque wrench, and if your exhaust hardware is rusted, buy new bolts and nuts as well so if you need to use a grinder to remove them, you already have a good replacement.

I would say it's a pretty straightforward job, it's not really hard hard, but it's time consuming. I didn't hurry at all and wanted to take my time.

I didn't drain my transmission fluid and I didn't spill anything either, while removing the driveshaft.

vtec to vvel

I REALLY appreciate your response! Knowledge is power and any advice/tips/etc. is MUCH appreciated

Did you have help or did you do this by yourself?

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BettyZ

I havent done my MC but replaced the CSC. It's not difficult. The pulling and reinstalling the transmission is an unmitigated pain in the ***.

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