:iagree:

If you want to lose a motor. Go ahead and install the Misashitymoto kit. You wouldn't be the first one to lose a motor. Use either Z1 or FI oil cooler kits. These are proven.

And tee of the stock engine pressure port like Jar said.

That's the most ignorant chit I've read since the Articles of Confederation. Redondo and I both run the MishiTmoto therm plate. Seal all the threads properly and you won't have an issue.

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That, however, is the only product of theirs that I'll use.

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Didn't want to derail this thread:ughdance: I've read very conflicting stories about mishimoto here so I was thinking that if I do everything dilligently and install a pressure gauge I should be fine - but OK, I'll check into other options, I believe you guys.

So regarding the gauge pressure sensor - I'd just replace the factory one with the gauge sensor and that should be it? Excuse my ignorance, just want to make sure I got it right. Also, thanks for the patience and info!

Ditching the OEM sensor is not recommended. You can either T off the OEM sensor hole or add a therm plate with a hole for the aftermarket sensor.

You're a diick head so......LOL

Put a tee in where the sensor is at now. For a gauge. Make sure it reads over 100 psi. On cold starts, the oil pressure will be 105 to 115 psi. 7,000 rpms, the pressure will be over 90 psi.

With an oil pressure sensor/gauge, there is no need for the factory oil pressure switch.

Here is why:
• The oil pressure switch turns on the idiot light when oil pressure is < 5 psi.
(tested & verified on my workbench)

• You will have cam phasing codes (P0011/P0021) LONG before the low oil pressure light is turned on.

• The oil pressure switch does not feed the ECU. It is wired directly to the IPDM/ER and when the single wire is grounded (< 5psi) the IPDM/ER sends a CAN bus message to the cluster to turn on the idiot light.

I removed my oil pressure switch switch almost 2 years ago... it is not needed when you can see the actual pressure.

:rofl2:

I prefer to use a thermostatic plate from a company that doesn't have a history of failed o-rings dumping engine oil while driving down the road. But that's just me :D

Remember that he likes to use oil less turbo's that go boom too.

Adding some info to this unsure if significant or not but

I noticed higher oil pressures after an oil change as well as the titan oil filter


I use 10w30 - 10w40 on my engine. Have been for 3 years.

Upon ownership I did the Gallery which was blown. Replaced with superceeded Nissan gasket.

30k miles later I did an oil change and switched from Fram Titan filter to OEM Nissan Titan filter and triggered a P0011 after 20 miles.

Erratic needle jumps between 10-20 psi in conjunction with Bank 1 VTC erratic angle reading.

This erraticness stops once p0011 is triggered. Now I can delete this code and oil pressures bounce in an electronically controlled pattern. This stops once code is triggered which I believe is when the VTC solenoids enter fault mode and stop opening keeping pressures stable however when they are trying to function I get erratic pressures but no loses which In my head could mean that the gallery might have busted again possibly due to higher pressures.

I can see 120-130psi on cold. I can see 100+ at operating temps after 3k but drop and pick up between 80-100psi. All of this started with a switch from Fram to OEM. Not saying it was the filter but found it interesting.