Yep it has ecutek. I do have a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner made by Innova. Do I need to get something else or will this scanner talk to the ecutek app?

I’ve been trying to get a data log with my current scanner but it only takes a snapshot under certain conditions and I cant figure out how to do it manually.

On another note, was my ecutek tune and license supposed to come with the ecutek scanner tool and cable? Cause it didn’t….

The kits with the cable or BT module are typically sold separate. My first tune was done locally and he just did everything himself. I got the cable used a few years later and just recently picked up the BT module from Eugene for easier datalogging. My understanding is you can datalog with just the BT module but you cannot upload tunes to the car. To flash the ROM I believe you have to use the OBDII-to-USB cable with the Deskey USB dongle.

Yeah you’re right I believe. Do you know where I should buy the ecutek dongle or cable or whatever? And do you know if I can just provide a datalog with my current scanner and the ecutek app?

Edit: also do you guys think I should still be driving my car to and from work? I don’t own another vehicle but I do have access to one if I really shouldn’t be driving my car right now.

If you buy a kit, I recommend getting a new one from Eugene (or other licensed Ecutek dealer) just to be safe. If you get a used cable kit, make sure it includes the cable AND the deskey USB dongle as well.

I'm fairly certain the Ecutek app only works with the Ecutek BT module. But I've been wrong before.

That code is a generic catch-all code, so it's probably fine to drive the car. Don't drive it if the CEL is blinking. I might avoid WOT and higher RPMs just to be safe. Are you ok with it stranding you somewhere if something goes wrong?

I appreciate your responses man. Haven’t had a flashing light yet but I do understand that if I do I should park the car.

I’m definitely avoiding driving the car hard.

My gut tells me it’s a fueling issue. Either fuel pump or fuel injectors. I’m tempted to just start throwing parts at it….like just replace the fuel pump and all the injectors. Then if it still does the same thing just sit back and have a cry about it.

Don't start throwing parts at it. That's the last thing you want to do with this code - it can be a black hole. First thing to do is troubleshoot and triple check any and all work that was done recently. Or call up Z1 with the "ever since" details lol. Datalogging is not a bad thing to do either. Then you can make smart decisions for the next steps. The law of unintended consequences may come back to haunt you if you just throw random parts at it.

What on earth makes you think it's fuel related? Not that it would help in this scenario, but if you don't already have a fuel pressure gauge, I recommend grabbing one from phunk (CJ Motorsports). The tap is out of stock currently but says it should be available in the next month or two.

I don’t know, honestly, just a hunch. Partially also wishful thinking since I’m confident I could replace them myself lol.

It’s weird because the car ran like a peach on the drive back from Z1, a 5 hour drive. Keep in mind Z1 also extracted a crap ton of power out of this car for the mods installed. It didn’t start acting up until I left for work the first cool morning. I also filled up with gas the day before it started acting up. On my next fill up I intend to go to a different station and I was thinking of adding a bottle of the Chevron fuel system cleaner BS. Just to rule out bad gas.

I’m just anxious to get it fixed, it bums me out hard as hell when my car isn’t running right. This is why I’m tempted to just start throwing parts at it lol. I’m not going to, but it’s tempting.

Another weird thing it’s doing. On a cold start, it revs really damn high for a good 3-4 seconds. I mean like almost 2000rpms. Then it’ll settle down to around 1200rpm. Then eventually it’ll settle down to around 750-800rpm so long as the code isn’t active. If I don’t clear the code it idles around 1200ish, per normal P0300 idle.

Also, between upshifs, I feel like the revs are hanging up longer than normal. Like it takes the RPMs longer to drop than it normally does

You might have some crap gas in there if that is another "ever since" item.

Interesting idle symptoms. Because my Z does some weird idle stuff too. It has been doing it for years and never thrown a code. Literally since 20K miles when the car was completely stock. After 100K miles I've done various mods, tune, relearn procedures, etc and it still does it. Shifting while driving is normal.

It will often rev up multiple times before settling down at the 750-800 range. My experience is it is worst when the car is hot and then sits for an hour or more. It will rev up to around 1200 and hold for 3-4 sec, then drop to 800 for a short sec, then rev up to 1600 for 2-3 sec, then drop to 800 for a short sec, then rev up to 2000 for a sec and then slowly increase to 2500+ before dropping to 800 and a normal idle after.

Haven’t made much progress in figuring out what’s going on. I did try new MAF sensors, which made no difference, at least I don’t think it did.

I did order the ecutek diag/map flash cable so I’ll be able to provide Z1 with a real datalog, and possibly get an updated map, if that’s what’s needed.

Does anyone have any experience with the Z1 OBD2 diagnostics tool? That thing looks pretty legit in its functionality.

Car threw P0305 today, so cylinder 5. So there’s something other than P0300 at least. Car still runs like **** of course. Ecutek cable comes in tomorrow. I’ve still got the old coil packs I took off the car a few months ago….you think I should swap one of the old plugs and coils in? Maybe check the injector on cylinder 5?

Try swapping that coil around and see if the problem moves to the other cylinder? That would at least confirm the bad coil.

True true. Good idea lol. Thanks.