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Lets talk pulley

In my experience they dont take too much motivation to come off. I removed one from a 26,000 mile 2018 engine a week or 2 ago, and it slide right

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Old 10-24-2022, 01:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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In my experience they dont take too much motivation to come off. I removed one from a 26,000 mile 2018 engine a week or 2 ago, and it slide right off only requiring effort to hold it concentric to the crankshaft while pulling. Engine was out of the car, so a Milwaukee 1/2" impact whacked the bolt right out effortlessly. In the car, it can be a hassle. I have used a chain wrench for leverage in a car before, but I am not thrilled with how it can gouge the pulley a little bit, though thats probably avoidable by wrapping it with something else first.
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Old 10-24-2022, 02:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by phunk View Post
In my experience they dont take too much motivation to come off. I removed one from a 26,000 mile 2018 engine a week or 2 ago, and it slide right off only requiring effort to hold it concentric to the crankshaft while pulling. Engine was out of the car, so a Milwaukee 1/2" impact whacked the bolt right out effortlessly. In the car, it can be a hassle. I have used a chain wrench for leverage in a car before, but I am not thrilled with how it can gouge the pulley a little bit, though thats probably avoidable by wrapping it with something else first.
That's how I do it. I use a chain wrench to hold the pulley. Been doing that for years. When you can't fit an impact in there, it works like a champ.
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Old 10-24-2022, 08:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by phunk View Post
In my experience they dont take too much motivation to come off. I removed one from a 26,000 mile 2018 engine a week or 2 ago, and it slide right off only requiring effort to hold it concentric to the crankshaft while pulling. Engine was out of the car, so a Milwaukee 1/2" impact whacked the bolt right out effortlessly. In the car, it can be a hassle. I have used a chain wrench for leverage in a car before, but I am not thrilled with how it can gouge the pulley a little bit, though thats probably avoidable by wrapping it with something else first.
My issue is the bolt, not pulley sliding off Crankshaft. My engine is in, otherwise, we would not be having this discussion.

I would use chain wrench, if I was certain the pulley bolt was going to come off. Didn't want to risk damaging it.
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Old 02-01-2025, 12:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks to everyone for the help.

Since the last post, few things have changed for the better.

I now have a shop with a hoist! I have all my tools in close proximity and essentially every tool I need.

Had the car up, undershroud off, Transmission held with lock tool, used the breaker bar with 3 foot extension and wham, off it came.

The pulley wiggled off as with all Nissans in my experience.

So, trying to fit the new ATI, I still feel that it is somewhat tight. I measure and measured and it shows I have some clearance, but it seems tighter.

I will heat up ATI hub (with heat gun not torch), and try to cool crankshaft mount portion and see if that helps. I will also use anti-seize on crank shaft (per ATI instructions) tht may also help.

New crank end seal is on order.

Stay tuned.
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Old 02-03-2025, 07:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ZoomZ View Post
Thanks to everyone for the help.

Since the last post, few things have changed for the better.

I now have a shop with a hoist! I have all my tools in close proximity and essentially every tool I need.

Had the car up, undershroud off, Transmission held with lock tool, used the breaker bar with 3 foot extension and wham, off it came.

The pulley wiggled off as with all Nissans in my experience.

So, trying to fit the new ATI, I still feel that it is somewhat tight. I measure and measured and it shows I have some clearance, but it seems tighter.

I will heat up ATI hub (with heat gun not torch), and try to cool crankshaft mount portion and see if that helps. I will also use anti-seize on crank shaft (per ATI instructions) tht may also help.

New crank end seal is on order.

Stay tuned.
I had mine clearanced a bit. Some don't do it, but MA Motorsports mentions the spec.

New Release Product Install: ATI Stock Replacement Damper
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Old 02-09-2025, 03:40 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm in the middle of swapping my old NST pulleys for an ATI crank and OEM radiator pulley and have to have mine clearanced as well... as soon as I can wrestle the NST pulley off because it's on there super tight.
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Old 02-09-2025, 12:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I am happy to say new ATI pulley is in.

Had to make a crankshaft-to-tool adapter to fit our M16x1.5 crank pulley bolt threads.

Used the Proform 66514 pulley install/removal tool. However, had to remove the electric fans for more clearance. Otherwise worked as described. https://www.proformparts.com/product...ol-fits-all-gm

Did NOT have to clearance the ATI pulley hub. ATI told me, I should have about 0.0001" clearance. I measured around 0.0004" maybe less.

With some Anti-seize on hub ID, the pulley pressed on smoothly and evenly without effort. I even got the 90 degree final torque as well.
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Old 02-11-2025, 01:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoomZ View Post
I am happy to say new ATI pulley is in.

Had to make a crankshaft-to-tool adapter to fit our M16x1.5 crank pulley bolt threads.

Used the Proform 66514 pulley install/removal tool. However, had to remove the electric fans for more clearance. Otherwise worked as described. https://www.proformparts.com/product...ol-fits-all-gm

Did NOT have to clearance the ATI pulley hub. ATI told me, I should have about 0.0001" clearance. I measured around 0.0004" maybe less.

With some Anti-seize on hub ID, the pulley pressed on smoothly and evenly without effort. I even got the 90 degree final torque as well.
What'd you use to make the adapter for the Proform tool? I had to order a set of pry bars to try and remove the pulley but wanted a backup just incase.
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Old 02-11-2025, 10:35 AM   #9 (permalink)
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What'd you use to make the adapter for the Proform tool? I had to order a set of pry bars to try and remove the pulley but wanted a backup just incase.
I had initially told the machine shop that 3/4 hex steel stock would work best to incorporate the wrench flats into adapter.

He didn't have any, so he just used round stock and machined the flats.

Picture in next post.
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Old 02-11-2025, 10:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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here is adapter I had made.
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