As lazy as I am, I put the socket on the crank bolt, and then my 4’ jack handle onto the breaker bar.

I then taped the jack handle to the frame and jumped in and hit the starter!

Bolt came loose immediately.

However the OEM balancer fell off the crank into my hands. I was shocked it was that loose of a fit.

WOW!

In my experience they dont take too much motivation to come off. I removed one from a 26,000 mile 2018 engine a week or 2 ago, and it slide right off only requiring effort to hold it concentric to the crankshaft while pulling. Engine was out of the car, so a Milwaukee 1/2" impact whacked the bolt right out effortlessly. In the car, it can be a hassle. I have used a chain wrench for leverage in a car before, but I am not thrilled with how it can gouge the pulley a little bit, though thats probably avoidable by wrapping it with something else first.

That's how I do it. I use a chain wrench to hold the pulley. Been doing that for years. When you can't fit an impact in there, it works like a champ.

As much as I like the starter bump method on an old clunker, ain't doing it on the Z. ;)

The Xterra has pretty much the same pulley. However, plenty of room to get an impact in there. It's pulley also slipped off by hand.

My issue is the bolt, not pulley sliding off Crankshaft. My engine is in, otherwise, we would not be having this discussion. ;)

I would use chain wrench, if I was certain the pulley bolt was going to come off. Didn't want to risk damaging it.

Update
 

Thanks to everyone for the help.

Since the last post, few things have changed for the better.

I now have a shop with a hoist! I have all my tools in close proximity and essentially every tool I need.

Had the car up, undershroud off, Transmission held with lock tool, used the breaker bar with 3 foot extension and wham, off it came.

The pulley wiggled off as with all Nissans in my experience.

So, trying to fit the new ATI, I still feel that it is somewhat tight. I measure and measured and it shows I have some clearance, but it seems tighter.

I will heat up ATI hub (with heat gun not torch), and try to cool crankshaft mount portion and see if that helps. I will also use anti-seize on crank shaft (per ATI instructions) tht may also help.

New crank end seal is on order.

Stay tuned.

I had mine clearanced a bit. Some don't do it, but MA Motorsports mentions the spec.

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ml#post3333000

I'm in the middle of swapping my old NST pulleys for an ATI crank and OEM radiator pulley and have to have mine clearanced as well... as soon as I can wrestle the NST pulley off because it's on there super tight.

I am happy to say new ATI pulley is in. :yum:

Had to make a crankshaft-to-tool adapter to fit our M16x1.5 crank pulley bolt threads.

Used the Proform 66514 pulley install/removal tool. However, had to remove the electric fans for more clearance. Otherwise worked as described. https://www.proformparts.com/product...ol-fits-all-gm

Did NOT have to clearance the ATI pulley hub. ATI told me, I should have about 0.0001" clearance. I measured around 0.0004" maybe less.

With some Anti-seize on hub ID, the pulley pressed on smoothly and evenly without effort. I even got the 90 degree final torque as well.

What'd you use to make the adapter for the Proform tool? I had to order a set of pry bars to try and remove the pulley but wanted a backup just incase.

I had initially told the machine shop that 3/4 hex steel stock would work best to incorporate the wrench flats into adapter.

He didn't have any, so he just used round stock and machined the flats.

Picture in next post.

here is adapter I had made.

Would you be willing/able to make another or sell the one you have (if you're no longer using it)?

A friend of mine made this for me so I can't really ask him to make another for free.

Also, I'll need this for the pulley removal when needed.

I can give you the specs if you like or anyone else. I'm sure there are far more machine shop services in US and cheaper.

There is also this guy who sells them: https://shoprelentlessracing.com/pro...1cbdb67e&_ss=r

A bit pricey but I doubt a machine shop can make it for you for less. It would cost me over $100 cdn to gets this shipped to Canada (exchange+shipping)

Let me know if you want the specs.

His install video (not VQ but same idea) Listen/watch carefully, he spits out materials required and thread pitches. ( I have those anyway)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIfXdG889jY