Lets talk pulley

ZoomZ

Thanks guy's. I thought I needed some access from top as well.

Ok, then. Just lower shield and some brute force.

Birdiev

Do you have a auto or manual?

ZoomZ

Manual.

zz

Birdiev

I just saw you are getting the underdrive pulley. I just installed mine and made a vid about it.You may have a difficult time installing it if you don't have the correct tools. well at least in my car it was.The ATI pulley has a more narrow opening compared to the oem and may be difficult to get the socket in there. I needed to use a swivel plus extension. Not sure how much room the 370 has

ZoomZ

As in the socket outer diameter is too large or the socket wall thickness?

Wall thickness i can grind down, but diameter wise, not sure what I need to do.

From what I understand, install is not an issue, only that I have to get the ATI pulley crankshaft bore machined to match OEM pulley bore size.

Wheres your video?

zz

Rusty

My ATI dampener right on without machining.

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ZoomZ

Thank you. Good to know. I will measure just in case.

zz

ZoomZ

Tight fit or can it come off by hand?

Rusty

I measured about .0005" clearance.

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Birdiev

https://youtu.be/I0T5FJHRyFM

Not really a step by step but you get the picture.
You can see when I have them side by side. The oem makes a funnel(cone) towards the crank bolt vs the ati has a cylinder straight opening. I had to nearly make it flush before I could just get a socket in there without extensions. But its installed on a g37. Not sure your clearance on the 370. Socket thickness is fine just haveing space between bolt and radiator shroud to get it in there

ZoomZ

Thanks for the video. Poor wash machine.

phunk

How many miles on the engine? If its under 100k and mostly stock, just leave it alone. They last a really long time, only ever heard of a couple separating after a decade or more. Sand/scuff off the rusty spot and paint it if it bothers you. Removing it at all is a waste of time, and changing it to the ATI will provide you nothing more than placebo effect. This is something to consider during an engine build, but just for the heck of it is silly IMHO.

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ZoomZ

Well, it appears I have no choice to leave it alone for now. It seems that my crank bolt may be seized or at least very tightly installed. I do see rust on periphery of bolt.

I hit it with PB blaster the night before. Had the electric fans out as well. Car was on Quick jack highest lift.

Got an ok turn radius with a 1/2" breaker bar and a pipe to give me an extra 4" of length. (needed all I could get) .

Started to turn the engine backwards in 1st gear. went to 6th and it held. I gave it a lot of pull, but nothing was happening.

I got creative with an impact flex socket and another flex joint and extension on the Milwaukee nut buster. Got a solid impact and hit it several times. nothing budged. (mind you the angle on this set up was extreme, but I did manage to hold it on)

I didn't want to heat it up as I feared damaging the oil seal. I'm not sure It would help while engine is installed or I dont have the ability to get a longer breaker bar/pipe combo. Being on a hoist would have certainly helped. So I didn't attempt heat in this situation.

SG4247

As lazy as I am, I put the socket on the crank bolt, and then my 4’ jack handle onto the breaker bar.

I then taped the jack handle to the frame and jumped in and hit the starter!

Bolt came loose immediately.

However the OEM balancer fell off the crank into my hands. I was shocked it was that loose of a fit.

WOW!

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ZoomZ

As much as I like the starter bump method on an old clunker, ain't doing it on the Z.

The Xterra has pretty much the same pulley. However, plenty of room to get an impact in there. It's pulley also slipped off by hand.