Nothing needs to come out if you use a chain wrench to hold the crank pulley. Just pop the serp belt off and do your thang. I would install a new crank seal in the front cover while you are at it.

If you are replacing the crank pulley. The only needs to be removed is the lower shield. I used a socket with a one inch extension and breaker bar.

Thanks guy's. I thought I needed some access from top as well.

Ok, then. Just lower shield and some brute force.

Do you have a auto or manual?

Manual.

zz

I just saw you are getting the underdrive pulley. I just installed mine and made a vid about it.You may have a difficult time installing it if you don't have the correct tools. well at least in my car it was.The ATI pulley has a more narrow opening compared to the oem and may be difficult to get the socket in there. I needed to use a swivel plus extension. Not sure how much room the 370 has

As in the socket outer diameter is too large or the socket wall thickness?

Wall thickness i can grind down, but diameter wise, not sure what I need to do.

From what I understand, install is not an issue, only that I have to get the ATI pulley crankshaft bore machined to match OEM pulley bore size.

Wheres your video?

zz

https://youtu.be/I0T5FJHRyFM

Not really a step by step but you get the picture.
You can see when I have them side by side. The oem makes a funnel(cone) towards the crank bolt vs the ati has a cylinder straight opening. I had to nearly make it flush before I could just get a socket in there without extensions. But its installed on a g37. Not sure your clearance on the 370. Socket thickness is fine just haveing space between bolt and radiator shroud to get it in there

My ATI dampener right on without machining.

Thanks for the video. Poor wash machine. :rofl2::icon14:

Thank you. Good to know. I will measure just in case.

zz

Tight fit or can it come off by hand?

I measured about .0005" clearance.

How many miles on the engine? If its under 100k and mostly stock, just leave it alone. They last a really long time, only ever heard of a couple separating after a decade or more. Sand/scuff off the rusty spot and paint it if it bothers you. Removing it at all is a waste of time, and changing it to the ATI will provide you nothing more than placebo effect. This is something to consider during an engine build, but just for the heck of it is silly IMHO.

Well, it appears I have no choice to leave it alone for now. It seems that my crank bolt may be seized or at least very tightly installed. I do see rust on periphery of bolt.

I hit it with PB blaster the night before. Had the electric fans out as well. Car was on Quick jack highest lift.

Got an ok turn radius with a 1/2" breaker bar and a pipe to give me an extra 4" of length. (needed all I could get) .

Started to turn the engine backwards in 1st gear. went to 6th and it held. I gave it a lot of pull, but nothing was happening.

I got creative with an impact flex socket and another flex joint and extension on the Milwaukee nut buster. Got a solid impact and hit it several times. nothing budged. (mind you the angle on this set up was extreme, but I did manage to hold it on)

I didn't want to heat it up as I feared damaging the oil seal. I'm not sure It would help while engine is installed or I dont have the ability to get a longer breaker bar/pipe combo. Being on a hoist would have certainly helped. So I didn't attempt heat in this situation.