Looking for info on talented VHR builders.

oldskoolchuk

****... you guys... I am really thankful for the solid info... and it's making me question my goals. I'm still thinking a mazworks motor might be the way to go and just not push it to the 800-900 power level.

Spooler

I guarantee that is not with supporting mods. LSD diff, diff cooler, suspension, wheels and tires, brakes, etc.

cv129

Read Spooler’s thread.

It’s the only big power VHR37 thread (800+whp) that’s completely honest about every single failure and hurdle, AND not a dyno nor garage queen.

Even without him disclosing every price tag, you will have a good guess on $ involved. Big $ to start, big $ as reserve, big down time and patience involved.

Even though it’s been 12 yrs, “reliable” 800+ on this motor is still a relatively new and lofty territory.

Whatever you do, best of luck

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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

Rusty

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

jchammond

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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

Spooler

Thanks, it has been an adventure.

oldskoolchuk

So, what are the limitations of our manual trans? Our dif? What numbers should I aim for before the budget necessary goes through the roof? I'm still thinking the mazworks motor will be what I want to do. Where is that happy medium between the 600 on a stock block and 60k to get 850-950 reliably? What threshold should I aim for? As it stands I'm working with a stock nismo suspension, trans, axles and dif.

Spooler

I am on the stock trans. It won't hold if I go to the drag strip, so I don't go. It may grenade at any time. Input shaft or 3rd gear may let go. You need the diff to calm the car down. It is all over the place with a stock VLSD. That is a safety thing. Axles, no launching they should o OK to around 800whp. No drag strip either. Wheel hop, kiss them goodbye. Take 3 weeks and read/watch the videos in my thread.

Rusty

You forgot the whole SPL catalog. Even without boost. Most guys here run the SPL catalog.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

FL 4Motion

No one gets it all right the first time…no one.

I don’t care if it’s old school ‘Mercian iron, a Jeep, or a z. There’s just always gonna be a few little (sometimes big) somethings that pop up.

Let’s take a quick snapshot at $$ ballpark prices for the OP and anyone else for that matter, I’ll let y’all big z boys fill in the $ #’s for me…

Fueling system:

Suspension (spl everything):

Rear diff cooling and lsd:

Built motor:

Trans upgrades (6mt):

Or

Trans upgrades (phunk dct):

Wheels and tires:

Brakes (oem akebonos):

Or

Brakes (aftermarket BBK):

Aero:

Misc supporting mods (IC, lines, piping, gauges, etc):

Safety (roll cage, seats, harness etc):

Agreed value insurance (maybe?):

FL 4Motion

Yup, that’s a pretty penny, we had that on both our old nismo track cars.

FL 4Motion

There’s fun rabbit hole and then there’s ruin your life rabbit hole (what I call a black hole).

Whether or not someone’s project becomes one or the other ultimately depends on planning, finances, willpower to see it thru, and frankly a bit of luck.

I won’t beat a dead horse but I still say the sweet spot for this platform where you have a big build but it doesn’t become a black hole and ruin your life or car is a stock block FI tt build making 500-600whp. Even a blown motor is an easy fix with a replacement long block and it’s pretty cheap. It’ll be fast as hell and won’t be broken or need one off parts all the time and you could even drive it cross country to zdayz and not be worried about it shiting the bed randomly.

Imo, /\ that’s the sweet spot for this platform.

gbrettin

"LS Swap!?!? Eww, gross." ... Now I know what Spooler really thinks. lol

I'm living proof you can burn a lot of money with any engine. The time frame on my build is a bit skewed because of 2 things:

1. I'm a dumb animal
2. I LOVE jumping down black holes like it's a never ending ride.

Every time I turn around I find another item that needs 200-500 minimum. Funny that you guys are talking rear diff, I'll use that as my example.

My vaporware should make some big power after I dial it in. With that in mind... I need a rear diff that can handle BIG POWER. Here's the rabbit hole:

Winters Quick change - Fully built to handle 2k hp. <--- this is the tip of the sword of what I own.

Known hole:
MA Motorsports rear subframe w/ SPL bushings
MA Motorsports Anti Squat
CF Drive shaft
DSS Drive Shaft

Unknown(ish) hole
Rear coils (need corner weight)
SPL rear stuff... I'll look at Jobby's car. lol
Powder coating?

Thank fully I'm going to settle on running power this year (hopefully). Get a drive shaft and hook it up as is for a shake down.

Main point here... I was just showing a rabbit hole and how you can lose yourself when you start throwing around big HP.

Spooler

LOL, you are not done yet. If you can get all your gauges working and everything else. Then it will be a proper build. Finish it up and then I will tell you what I think.

SteveVQ

I guess I'm going to stay stock block and go for the 600whp goal. It sounds so much simpler to achieve then the hurdles I will have to go through to achieve really big power. If I want to make 800+ easy, I guess I'll need to invest in a v8 platform or V8 swap...which makes me kinda sick to think about (Nissan Purist)

DRZA wont touch a stock block though, it doesn't meet their reliability standards. I'll need to find another shop if I go the TT stock block route.

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‘19 Camaro SS 1SS 6MT
‘13 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT 328whp (Sold)
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