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Looking for info on talented VHR builders.

Originally Posted by FL 4Motion Imo, $20k otd for a fully built to the hilt motor ain’t too bad. At this level you really gotta pay to play. But, proper

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Old 08-02-2021, 10:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Imo, $20k otd for a fully built to the hilt motor ain’t too bad. At this level you really gotta pay to play.

But, proper race motor and daily driver don’t belong in the same sentence. Isn’t it only around $7500 for a stock long block? Why not just slap a FI tt kit on it and run 500-600 whp relatively reliably and if or when you lose a motor, only be looking at around $7500 plus install instead. Your car will be helashiosly quick and it won’t be ******** the bed constantly or having little issues all the time. Race cars are high maintenance bitches.
You could also do what I'm doing. Just keep a spare low miles long block as a backup
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Old 08-02-2021, 10:39 PM   #17 (permalink)
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This is excellent info, thank you! I'm looking at the 800-900whp level... anything beyond that isn't really necessary for my intents and purposes. I was thinking a billet block would be wise, as in, if you're going to do it, do it right the 1st time. Sort of relieved that a stock block will hold down what I want to make.




I'm already above stock LS power and wouldn't want to downgrade. If I were to go LS I'd also be looking to boost that. I'd rather stick with the VHR. Plus, I kinda find LS swaps kind of tacky.




With all this said, there aren't any other reputable builders but SOHO, Mazworks, and Dynosty?

If you want 800 to 900whp your only options are Mazworx or SOHO. I haven't seen a Dynansty build live at this HP. Read my whole thread and learn from it. If you don't, you will learn the hard way.
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Old 08-02-2021, 10:40 PM   #18 (permalink)
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You could also do what I'm doing. Just keep a spare low miles long block as a backup
He wants 800 to 900whp, that won't cut it.
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Old 08-02-2021, 10:41 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Another food for thought. How much WHP do you have now?
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Old 08-02-2021, 10:45 PM   #20 (permalink)
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He wants 800 to 900whp, that won't cut it.
My response was to what FL Motion mentioned about buying new oem long blocks. My answer was an alternative to that.
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Old 08-02-2021, 10:47 PM   #21 (permalink)
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700 to 750whp is most folks limit. Get up the 800 to 900whp it is a whole new ballgame. 900whp is an eye opener and a freaking handful. If you have limited experience, start at 700 to 750whp.
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Old 08-02-2021, 10:48 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Ls ftw. Seeing what spooler et al keep going thru with big booost builds, I think the ls route is def the easier way to go for reliable big power. I get the wanting to keep it Nissan/JDM tho too.

(I’d still ls swap tho).
All the LS swaps I have seen were not that great.
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Old 08-02-2021, 11:44 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Another food for thought. How much WHP do you have now?
Sitting at just over 500. We were waiting to for me to machine up the pcv elbow fitting to tune it up over 600... but again, that's when we found the damage was already done.
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Old 08-02-2021, 11:45 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Sorry for the delayed responses guys, I'm at work making parts as we speak.
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Old 08-02-2021, 11:47 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Sitting at just over 500. We were waiting to for me to machine up the pcv elbow fitting to tune it up over 600... but again, that's when we found the damage was already done.
OK, then 700whp is what you should tune for first go around to get use to the power. If you would like to go to 800-900whp, then as I stated your choices are SOHO or Mazworx. That's it. Just go slow turning up the power.
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Old 08-03-2021, 12:02 AM   #26 (permalink)
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OK, then 700whp is what you should tune for first go around to get use to the power. If you would like to go to 800-900whp, then as I stated your choices are SOHO or Mazworx. That's it. Just go slow turning up the power.
I'm not just going to jump out the window, with a car I don't know yet, with power I'm not used to. I appreciate the advice, good looking out. I appreciate it, I do. If I'm going to go up from here though, it's going to be a full build, rather than spend 7 grand on a stock long block to stay at the 500-600 range. Truthfully I'm going to have to upgrade my turbo system at the same time, and go to twin fuel pumps... and look at axels and a dif. I am going to have a look at your thread with my free time at work here, and glean what I can there... but again, if I'm going to spend money like this, it's not going to be a lateral move... it's going to be spend the money once and do what I want for long term goals. I have a lot to learn about what "do it right the 1st time" means... besides lots of overtime at work... or cashing in on equity. The planning is happening now though, and you guys are an incredible resource of knowledge and experience to learn from.

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Old 08-03-2021, 12:34 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Can you toss me a link to your build thread Spooler... I'm having problems finding it here.
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Old 08-03-2021, 12:47 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Can you toss me a link to your build thread Spooler... I'm having problems finding it here.
Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.

That should be it. Long but extremely informative read.
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Old 08-03-2021, 01:03 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.

That should be it. Long but extremely informative read.
Thank you very much!
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Old 08-03-2021, 01:03 AM   #30 (permalink)
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That's where I'm at now. The builders and owner who had the build done initially decided to delete the passenger side pcv to make room for turbo piping, they were running it on pump gas at around 425whp. Since I've got it I've switched to e85, and as soon as we noticed the lack of a pcv on that side we fixed it... which took me machining up an elbow fitting at work by reverse engineering the pcv valve dimensions and then making a hose barb that threads into that to get a low enough profile fitting that would fit under the pipes. The problem is the damage is already done, and now that there's a pcv (feeding to the intake) I'm blowing big blue smoke at idle. So the answer is clear, swap another motor in for the time being and enjoy my 600, and build the one that's in it for more power and hopefully also reliability. The goal is to beat the CTS-Vs and the boosted mustangs with Coyotes and 10 speeds in the local late night racing scene... and so here I am looking for wisdom and advice.
Ok, swapping in a new to you stock long block and then using your old motor to build up w/o going thru as much downtime is a good idea. Also, then when you swap again, you’ll have a spare long block on deck just in case. Even a fully built motor done by the best shop around and tuned by the best tuner etc could still easily go boom just bc at those power levels, 800+ whp, there’s just no guarantees on anything. Be prepared to be chasing down little gremlins on a regular basis too, that’s part of the game at that level.

You’ll see in spooler’s thread, but your going to need to address your 6mt at some point, I’m assuming you’ve got a mt cause the at won’t cut it at that level afaik. You should look into Phunk’s thread about swapping in a bmw dct so you can put the power done better and w/o trans breakage. He’s CJ Motorsports btw, great guy and great company.

Alright, so you want to be hot sh1t at the local drags and do it in a 370z platform.

First, I’m going to assume all this will be taking place at the local drag strip.

Two, as others have already said, you need to grow your skills into the car. Master 500whp, then 550, then 600, etc. experiment with various tire setups, work on your 60 ft, work on your shifting, car control down the track. Work on improving not just your times but also your et’s. Get safety equipment professionally installed, like a cage etc.

Three, you’ll probably end up needing a reliable daily driver, cause you will break sh1t, even at 500whp once in a while.

There’s more but I’m kinda tired and I’ve got other sh1t to say…
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