CEL and no acceleration
 

I finally got the car tuned on EcuTek and with RaceRom feature and on my way back the check engine light came up but the car was still running fine. I even tried the car and it was quick and fast for the short time I was able to drive it without having the loss of acceleration. Then a couple days later the CEL is still there but it was flashing during acceleration and at that point I had no power. The idle is fine and it does not sound abnormal. The spark plugs were changed by the tuning shop. I have an appointment to the dealership to have the oil changed and check the codes. What should I try by myself to solve this in the meantime?

If you have the ecutek dongle, I'd do some logs and send them to your tuner. Sounds like a tune issue

Who tuned it?

Total Tuning located in Quebec

Here are the codes. The dealership erased them, the light did not come back on but it still runs like it's in limp mode.

https://www.ibb.co/LrJbkdw

Should I disconnect the battery?

Worth a try. The ECM will lose some tuning data and you'll have to drive around for a while until it relearns. You may have to do a window reset and the presets on the radio again.

Will this procedure remove my tune per say? Will I have to do a throttle body relearn or something else? As for the tuning data, what are you refering to exactly? Should I drive the car hard to have it learn to be quick? lol

You won't lose your Ecutek tune and there's no reason you would have to do a throttle body relearn. And.no, you shouldn't drive it hard. Why aren't you talking to your tuner about your situation?

Understood. I will go ahead and unplug the battery for a day or two. I am reaching out everywhere and to anybody right now and I'm looking for support and guidance. Unfortunately the tuner appears to be unavailable.

I've had glitches in a tune one time. I reflashed it and everything was fine

Usually these problems can be remedied by the tuner especially if they arised after the tune.

Disconnecting the battery should drain the car in 10 mins or less, no need to leave for a day or more.

I do not have the cable or the dongle. I called the dealership mechanic and he said the flashing was a misfire and it could be due to an air leak or bad connections more than likely. He asked about the P300 code and I told him I did not get that code meaning it should not be real knocking otherwise I would have had that code or if it stopped knocking the code may have gone away by itself. The dealership mechanic suggested verifying all connectors are indeed well plugged in. He said unplugging the battery will not remove limp mode if there is but it will erase codes but still worth a try.

Worth a try until you get a response from the tuner. The dongle and cable are a worthwhile investment

I just tried the car, still no dash lights. I cold driven the car and it seemed to have gained its power back but after maybe just a minute it got slow again.