Rust on the lower engine part
 

Hello everybody,

I noticed when removing the engine cover from the badly rusted parts on the lower engine and the drive belt.
What do you think ? is that bad ?

Thank you for your help

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1c256d85a3.jpg

Looks like mostly surface rust (ie, not harmful) to me - but I'm no expert.

If it were my car, I'd clean all the rust off and put some sort of coating (eg, paint) on it. This will keep the rust from spreading and/or eating deeper into the metal. And it will help prevent rusting in the future.

Lol for rust on the lower engine part

After cleaning the rust off. Spray this under the car.

CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor

Thank you for your help :)

We don't have "CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor" in FRANCE but I found "Rustol Owatrol". Do you know this product? Is it OK for engine parts ?

On the picture, on the surrounded part 1, Can I clean this and apply an anti rust on this ? this part is very rusty:shakes head:

What about the drive belt or pulley ? Do I need to change ?

Thank you

I've never used or even heard of Rustol. Did a web search and most of the pages were in French, which I cannot understand.
I've used a lot of different CRC products through the years and have always been very satisfied with their performance. If you can find CRC products in your area, it will be worth the effort. Another company that makes good rust-control coatings is Rustoleum.

I'm not sure what that part is. If it's solid bars, then it will be OK to sand, buff, blast, etc. If it is tubing, you run the risk of poking a hole in it when you clean it.

Rust can be rather abrasive and may have caused some excess wear of the belt - a good inspection will tell you if you need to replace. It doesn't look like it needs to be replaced in the pictures.
The pulleys just need a good cleaning/coating. Do not paint where the belt rides - the belt will abrade any rust in that area.

As an Aircraft technician who has dealt with corrosion, the only way to get rid of all that is either replacing with new, or removing all components and using media blast to get into the pores.

You can then effectively assess depth of damage.

If all is ok, then clean, prime, paint and add a protective wax coating like above CRC etc.

That is the best way to clean and protect. If the tubing carries any type of fluid, those images do not look like they are salvageable even after clean up.

Don't forget muriatic acid or caustic dipping and plating

Those pipes in image are not hard to replace. Probably parts are inexpensive (DIY). If that was my car, I'd replace them.
They are your oil cooler water lines. Probably will have to drain coolant and refresh. So try to accomplish other things at same time.

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...;4=SPORT;5=6MT)

(***THIS PART NUMBER IS RANDOM MODEL*** SELECT YOUR VEHICLE MODEL TO GET EXACT PART****)

Thank you all :D

So I will replace this part https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...;4=SPORT;5=6MT

the hoses also need to be replaced with this part ?

For the oil pan, I should :

• Clean with acetone

• Paint with a rust converter, I will buy Würth rust converter : https://eshop.wurth.co.uk/Rust-conve...rust+converter

• Apply a spray to protect against salt: Facom 006054 Protection Body (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Facom-00605...ct_top?ie=UTF8)

Facom spray :
I think it should be ok for oil pan and the bar that crosses.

For the low engine and pulleys (except on the belt rides) can I do the same ?

You do not want to get anything on where the belt rides. Also you don't want to get anything on the A/C clutch assembly.

What Rusty said.

Also, you may want to rough sand the entire oil pan as well. Get rid of as much rust as possible and also prepare surface for chemical/paint retention.

After the rust conversion, you can just Primer and paint instead of Facom. I think painting the oil pan in original Gloss black is more appealing, but up to you.

To kill the rust. Use POR 15. Spray it on. Leave sit. Then rinse off. Let dry. Then paint. I started doing the frame on my truck.

I agree, this or vinegar in a bottle and spray as you go then rinse.
Make sure you try to dry these areas well once you rinse or they'll start oxidizing by the time you're done with the rest.

If this area looks like this then your suspension braces will probably look like this as well.
Good luck!

Rust on the lower engine part
 

So that I understand ( sorry I don’t understand English very well ) :

-I must not touch pulleys ( should I just clean up ? )
- clean with vinegar the oil pan
- use rust converter on just the oil pan like POR 15 ( but We haven’t this product, we have the product : wurth rust converter ) and paint after

What is the temperature of the oil pan please ? (When engine is hot ) Because temp max for Wurth rust converter is 120 degrees ( 248 F)


Should I use high temp paint?

Not exactly true - you shouldn't get paint or other coating in the area where the belt rides, but it is OK to derust the entire pulley. The belt area probably doesn't need any derusting (the belt running over that area usually abrades any rust that might form); a few licks with a wire brush ought to do the job.

Most weak acid solutions (citric, acetic, phosphoric, etc) will do the job. Some work better than others. The commercial products will usually have buffers and other agents to protect the metal.

I'd use the same chemical on everything. Just so I didn't have to handle more than one solution. Shouldn't matter all that much which one you use. YMMV

I think that is the max temp to use the rust converter. The temp after treatment shouldn't matter. But I'm not sure.

Edit: According to https://eshop.wuerth.com.mt/images/u...ets/893110.pdf , "Thermally stable up to +120°C for short periods." I take that to mean you can use it for a very short time at that temp and does not apply after treatment. You might want to verify that with another source.

Shouldn't be necessary unless you have parts near the exhaust manifold. But it doesn't do any harm.

Use Fozz for corrosion inhibitor.

Functionally everything should work correctly with out doing anything.

If you want to remove the rust for cosmetics... Well, that's going to be tricky like the others have already stated.

Here's the path I would take. New belt, upgrade sway bar w/ SPL end links, ATI Damper and remove/cleanup the idler pulleys (or get new ones depending on the miles).

Here's the rub though... I suspect you have other rust concerns in there lurking that you just haven't seen.