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Rust on the lower engine part
Hello everybody,
I noticed when removing the engine cover from the badly rusted parts on the lower engine and the drive belt. What do you think ? is that bad ? Thank you for your help https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1c256d85a3.jpg |
Looks like mostly surface rust (ie, not harmful) to me - but I'm no expert.
If it were my car, I'd clean all the rust off and put some sort of coating (eg, paint) on it. This will keep the rust from spreading and/or eating deeper into the metal. And it will help prevent rusting in the future. |
Lol for rust on the lower engine part
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After cleaning the rust off. Spray this under the car.
CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor |
1 Attachment(s)
Thank you for your help :)
We don't have "CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor" in FRANCE but I found "Rustol Owatrol". Do you know this product? Is it OK for engine parts ? On the picture, on the surrounded part 1, Can I clean this and apply an anti rust on this ? this part is very rusty:shakes head: What about the drive belt or pulley ? Do I need to change ? Thank you |
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I've used a lot of different CRC products through the years and have always been very satisfied with their performance. If you can find CRC products in your area, it will be worth the effort. Another company that makes good rust-control coatings is Rustoleum. Quote:
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The pulleys just need a good cleaning/coating. Do not paint where the belt rides - the belt will abrade any rust in that area. |
As an Aircraft technician who has dealt with corrosion, the only way to get rid of all that is either replacing with new, or removing all components and using media blast to get into the pores.
You can then effectively assess depth of damage. If all is ok, then clean, prime, paint and add a protective wax coating like above CRC etc. That is the best way to clean and protect. If the tubing carries any type of fluid, those images do not look like they are salvageable even after clean up. |
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Those pipes in image are not hard to replace. Probably parts are inexpensive (DIY). If that was my car, I'd replace them.
They are your oil cooler water lines. Probably will have to drain coolant and refresh. So try to accomplish other things at same time. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...;4=SPORT;5=6MT) (***THIS PART NUMBER IS RANDOM MODEL*** SELECT YOUR VEHICLE MODEL TO GET EXACT PART****) |
Thank you all :D
So I will replace this part https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...;4=SPORT;5=6MT the hoses also need to be replaced with this part ? For the oil pan, I should :
Facom spray : Quote:
For the low engine and pulleys (except on the belt rides) can I do the same ? |
You do not want to get anything on where the belt rides. Also you don't want to get anything on the A/C clutch assembly.
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What Rusty said.
Also, you may want to rough sand the entire oil pan as well. Get rid of as much rust as possible and also prepare surface for chemical/paint retention. After the rust conversion, you can just Primer and paint instead of Facom. I think painting the oil pan in original Gloss black is more appealing, but up to you. |
To kill the rust. Use POR 15. Spray it on. Leave sit. Then rinse off. Let dry. Then paint. I started doing the frame on my truck.
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Make sure you try to dry these areas well once you rinse or they'll start oxidizing by the time you're done with the rest. If this area looks like this then your suspension braces will probably look like this as well. Good luck! |
Rust on the lower engine part
So that I understand ( sorry I don’t understand English very well ) :
-I must not touch pulleys ( should I just clean up ? ) - clean with vinegar the oil pan - use rust converter on just the oil pan like POR 15 ( but We haven’t this product, we have the product : wurth rust converter ) and paint after What is the temperature of the oil pan please ? (When engine is hot ) Because temp max for Wurth rust converter is 120 degrees ( 248 F) Should I use high temp paint? |
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