Gallery Gaskets on my 2012
 

I've been reading a lot about the gallery gaskets failing and causing low oil pressure, which could potentially lead to engine failure.

My 2012 370Z was manufactured in 12/2011 and I'm not sure if anyone knows if this car would have the upgraded metal gaskets of the newer models or the paper gaskets which were prone to failure.

Right now my car has no symptoms related to this, but I'm currently approaching 150k miles on the car (within 50 miles) and am concerned that these might need to be replaced preventatively.

Would you guys call the Nissan dealer and schedule this service or wait until experiencing symptoms? Also if anyone knows the exact models with the upgraded gaskets that would be great, as my car seems to be right on the cusp of the changeover.

There have been a few posts on FB with even a few of the newer engines having the same gasket issues.

If you're going to replace them, go with the EPS kit since it comes with better hardware; I believe Rusty or another OG posted about this sometime ago.

The older paper gaskets are garbage, yes, but the newer metal ones did not entirely fix the issue. That's because the hardware that Nissan (and other kits) use is also part of the problem. Get the EPS Tuning kit with screws that aren't prone to backing out on their own.

I wouldn't wait for symptoms. Chances are you won't see any until it's too late. If you drop the oil pan, you might find some bits of gasket in it if they are starting to fail, but that's not really a convenient check. The biggest issue is the stock oil pressure sensor does not illuminate the dash light until pressure is so low that you have likely already compromised the engine. Probably the best way to get a heads up on gallery gasket failure is to install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge so you can identify the oil pressure dropping long before the dash light comes on.

For the hardware that Nissan (and other kits) use, use a punch to dot the rim of the screw head once installed. The indentation will help prevent the problem of the screw backing out on its own.

:iagree:

Dimple it.

:iagree:
Red loctite and stake the bolts

If you're going to chose Nissan to do it might as well wait until your 150k engine blows and in the meantime buy a 2014+ engine and install EPS gaskets to have ready to drop in. Doing it all at an indy will cost about the same as just having Nissan update your 150k OE gaskets.

I found an independent shop willing to do the labor for $750 so I think I I’m gonna go ahead and do it. Buying EPS kit. Any suggestions as far as timing guides etc and other things to be done while they’re in there?

Since your going to be in there, do your water pump, all timing chain guides, timing chain and the timing chain tensioner.

Get a Sucker Punch oil pump. :tup:

Well...I've learned some things guys lol

I ended up taking the above poster's advice and installing an AEM oil pressure gauge! Woo yay!

Whelp, oil temp 180 degrees, idle with climate controls off....and

15-17 psi, sometimes dipping down to 13-15psi.

Looks like it needed new gaskets after all! More money going into the car for EPS gaskets along with a host of other timing components.

Will probably sum up entire experience in post later.

After reading this and having a 2012 (actually built in Feb 2012) with no oil pressure issues (that I know of) so far, I have just ordered the AEM 150psi to help make sure.

Not sure if 15-17 psi an actual problem (at that temp and at idle). I just had my engine completely rebuilt (plus a new oil pump) and it sits rock steady at 16 psi at 180+ degrees.

I have never seen it dip below 16 psi, though. 13 psi does seem low, and I agree that even 16 psi feels a bit low. Or, at least, lower than I would have expected seeing that others apparently see a much higher idle psi.

Oil pressure is considered to be normal above 14 psi at idle :twocents:

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ure-gauge.html

Good move on the oil pressure gauge. At the very least, you can keep an eye on it. However, I think 15-17 is low enough to warrant getting the gaskets and hardware replaced.

I have a 2011 with 132K miles + extreme heat track days, and somehow I'm at 25 PSI at 180F (34-row cooler if you want to account for pressure drop, I don't know if that's true or not). If my idle pressures go down to 15ish, I'm definitely getting all that **** replaced.