Originally Posted by JARblue The key to replacing the Z spark plugs is a thin-walled socket I cant find a 14mm 3/8 drive thin walled anywhere. Even went to all
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11-30-2020, 07:56 PM | #16 (permalink) |
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I cant find a 14mm 3/8 drive thin walled anywhere. Even went to all my tool stores and couldnt find anything. I see alot of 12 pointers or do I have a chance to strip the plug accidently.
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Double Layer Tints (5% on top of 15%), Muffler/Resonator Delete, Z1 Long Tube Intakes, Z1 Aluminum Undershroud, H&R Lowering Springs Last edited by Wabbyy; 11-30-2020 at 08:19 PM. |
11-30-2020, 08:57 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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Just get another spark plug socket and pull out the rubber insert that grips the plug. Use the original socket (with the spark plug lightly pushed into it ) to put the spark plug in the head a couple of threads deep, then you should be able to remove the socket easily as it was only lightly pushed onto the spark plug. Now switch over to the socket with the rubber insert removed and tighten the spark plug up. Been using this method for years
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11-30-2020, 09:45 PM | #18 (permalink) |
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[QUOTE=Bryzed;3974005]Just get another spark plug socket and pull out the rubber insert that grips the plug. Use the original socket (with the spark plug lightly pushed into it ) to put the spark plug in the head a couple of threads deep, then you should be able to remove the socket easily as it was only lightly pushed onto the spark plug. Now switch over to the socket with the rubber insert removed and tighten the spark plug up. Been using this method for years[/QUOTE
I already fixed it. I had found a stronger magnetized extension and it did the trick but I do understand your method. Thanks alot man. Also should I be putting any type of anti-seize or lube on the OEM Denso plugs before installing??
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11-30-2020, 10:16 PM | #19 (permalink) | |
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[QUOTE=Wabbyy;3974027]
Quote:
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11-30-2020, 10:17 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
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[QUOTE=Wabbyy;3974027]
Quote:
Apparently no anti seize lube should be used, I personally never use anti seize lube but others do |
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11-30-2020, 10:22 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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[QUOTE=Bryzed;3974041]You never had a plug stuck in an aluminum head.
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11-30-2020, 11:25 PM | #22 (permalink) |
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Nothing wrong with using anti-seize on spark plugs IF you apply it correctly. Use very sparingly and avoid the first thread to prevent getting any into the combustion chamber or fouling the plug.
Remember to use a little less torque when tightening (torque specs are usually specified for dry threads). More info on the Web.
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12-01-2020, 12:14 PM | #24 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
You can grind down your socket wall with a bench grinder. Doesn't take long or in need of high skills. SPLINED sockets work as well. Instead of 6 points or 12 point contact faces, they will have splines extending the length of socket. Will work on 6 or 12 point bolt. Your local Auto parts should have those. It's low torque, so you shouldn't strip even with 12 point. Antiseize is a must. Don't need a lot. |
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12-10-2020, 01:52 PM | #26 (permalink) |
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This is the 14mm socket you want for doing spark plugs. O'Reilly's has them. They are magnetic instead of having the old rubber boot thing inside. A god send for install and removal of deep in the Cylinder head plugs. I use this one with a 3/8 12" extension. No issues at all with removal or installation.
See the link. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...g+socket&pos=3 Only $7.99. I think they will ship them.
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