Originally Posted by JeffP-Z I spent some time over at SZR Pro today here in Houston talking with Dane and Brad about build plans and some of the conversations here.
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06-26-2020, 12:13 PM | #46 (permalink) | |
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Second, your build list here is definitely showing an improved thought process. You're listing the right kind of components and you're doing it before building anything. Third, if you have questions about injector size, talking with a knowledgeable tuner with a lot of build experience, such as Sebastian at Specialty Z, would be a very good idea. Lastly, try to figure out your power goals in advance. That'll make your build decisions a lot more obvious. 500 whp? You won't need E85; you don't need a built block; you can run smaller injectors; you can keep relatively small turbos. 750 whp? Whole 'nother game. Now you're talking built block for longevity, with only a handful of shops providing proven motors at that power level for any kind of duration, likely E85, upgraded turbos, etc.
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06-26-2020, 12:25 PM | #47 (permalink) |
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Built block in the neighborhood of 15 to 20 grand to do it right.
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06-26-2020, 12:33 PM | #48 (permalink) |
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Jeff, old boy. I got a question. What ever gave you the idea of running corn on a stock Z?
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06-26-2020, 12:38 PM | #49 (permalink) |
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And even then, it might not hold together.
OP, you've gotten a bunch of great advice from people that have 'been there, done that, got the t-shirt' When they say the AAM kit is junk, believe them. JLarson is running a BP single turbo kit he installed himself (well, with help from lots of others), Madwi is running the same kit and IIRC he did the install himself (possibly with help from others). I'm not sure I'd believe your buddy that claims 1050 HP out of his Z, unless you happen to be friends with Mike that's selling his Z (white dragon), but that's just my I would question the motives of people that are pushing a questionable kit, considering the number of people that have had issues with AAM and not just on this platform. There are too many threads with pictures of poorly cast manifolds (with blocked runners) that are in the hands of customers and AAM not standing behind their product. Information is good, and right now, the go-to folks for forced induction and related hardware are Fast Intentions and BP for kits and phunk at CJM for fueling. Good luck.
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06-26-2020, 12:51 PM | #51 (permalink) | |
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Another guy that's 'been there, done that, got the t-shirt'.
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2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/ |
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06-26-2020, 01:20 PM | #53 (permalink) |
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From the tags, it appears that sugar, salt, lime and acetone can be added to fuel for big power gains. Wow, that's so cool!!! Now I know what my weekend project is going to be.
Wish me luck gang. |
06-26-2020, 01:54 PM | #54 (permalink) |
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This is the best thread we've had in years.
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06-26-2020, 01:56 PM | #55 (permalink) | |
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That said, the repost wasn't exactly for you, but next time you take the time to ask a question, maybe heed the advice you get. BUT, moving past all that... You need at least 550cc injectors and a tune. That's the entirety of necessary parts. An Aeromotive 340lph isn't a bad idea, but not needed. I believe the SZ flexfuel kit is ~$600. I'd personally recommend it as you have to run your car down to almost empty to switch fuels otherwise. If you choose to go that route, ECUtek is your only software option as Uprev does not have flexfuel capabilities.
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377whp/299wtq NA 704whp/519wtq, SOHO stage 2.5 IG: pearlywhite.z Last edited by Whjaxn17; 06-26-2020 at 02:13 PM. |
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06-26-2020, 02:17 PM | #56 (permalink) |
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Yeap, 1700cc are good for a mostly E85 car. Run them on 93 oct. and you will get some funky idling, etc. This is from personal experience. 1300cc is all most folks need unless they are wanting to push the HP level. If that is the case, it can get expensive quick. Re-do's suck and are quite costly.
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06-26-2020, 06:40 PM | #57 (permalink) |
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You missed the one about using grain instead of corn.
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06-27-2020, 11:10 PM | #58 (permalink) | |
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So I think I will take the good advice here and plan on changing the build plan to this: Walbro 520 / E85 SKU 900.1160 Pump Strainer 900.1225: Center Strainer Pigtail 900.1020: Include Billet Fuel Pump Hat, 370z SKU 100.0100 Regulator Delete Adapter 320.4655: S1.SE Fuel System, 370z Vehicle, Pump Type, Filter Media 800.4405: 370Z, 10mm, Microglass Mini Pressure Gauge 400.3000: Include Fire Sleeve 900.5106: 6 Feet Injector Dynamics ID1300x2 Application CJM S1.SE Plus the Zspeed Flex Fuel kit. This should position me well for the TT upgrade later on unless I am missing something in this. Oh and yes, I appreciate the advice on the FI vs. AAM and will listen to the solid advice given here and get the FI kit, pain is not worth the marginally higher cost to get a better kit. Someone might have once told me, you get what pay for...If the FI is better, and was my original choice before these guys were pushing the AAM kit on me. It's really great to be able to get sound advice from people who have been there and done this and are not trying sell me something for their benefit and potentially not mine. Thanks again to everyone for helping and dealing with my retarded a$$! This has been great information that I just had to take the time to thoroughly understand and not leap before I look.
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- Jeff Drift Z: 2010 370z, TopGun Rotrex Supercharger, ID 1300cc Injectors, FI Long Tube Headers, GReddy RS-Race Single Exit, Setrab PS & Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Coilovers, CJM S1.SE Fuel System, Walbro 525 pump with the CJM Billet Fuel Hat, OS Giken Superlock 1.5 Last edited by JeffP-Z; 06-27-2020 at 11:33 PM. |
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06-27-2020, 11:21 PM | #59 (permalink) |
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Stupidity in reality....but I was looking to take advantage of the marginal HP gain I would have expected. But as I may have already said, I leaped before I looked...bad plan! I was getting beat out there by guys with much better builds and thought it was a quick easy way to make more HP. I am too impulsive sometimes and it got the better of me this time. Add this to experience category and keep on keeping on. Fortunately I am a persistent SOB and wont quit till I get this right. I am on a mission to learn as much as I can now and will try to STFU and read more and understand better.
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- Jeff Drift Z: 2010 370z, TopGun Rotrex Supercharger, ID 1300cc Injectors, FI Long Tube Headers, GReddy RS-Race Single Exit, Setrab PS & Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Coilovers, CJM S1.SE Fuel System, Walbro 525 pump with the CJM Billet Fuel Hat, OS Giken Superlock 1.5 |
06-27-2020, 11:56 PM | #60 (permalink) |
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Set a HP goal and stick to it. Anything above 16 psi of boost will get expensive quick. If you are going to run E85, ID 1300cc injectors will work just fine. Built motors start at 15k and go up. The more HP you want the more additional mods you will need. If you have never had a turbo car, start slow and work your way up with time and experience. You don't want to jump into a high hp car and wreck it the first month. We have all seen that happen on the forum. It is ugly.
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