E-85 on a stock 370z?

husam2012

Why would you ever attempt to run E85 without a tune?

The car is definitely running very lean at the moment, especially WOT as the car can correct up to 25% during idle/cruising but it will take a while for it to apply that to WOT fueling, and on top of it the injectors aren't big enough to go full throttle.

I would estimate that you'll be doing permanent damage after a few pulls.

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Rusty

Lean burn. Turning the tops of the pistons into silly putty.

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JeffP-Z

Which is why I asked in advance. But I guess there ya go for stupidity. Never trust internet trolls. I have barely driven and not done any hard pulls yet so I guess thats a saving grace. Time to drain the tank and put some 93 back in it until I can finish the build and get the rest done. I love how no one says, don't do that until xyz is done until after you do it and even ask people in advance. So what all do you need to run E85 well and realize some benefits (without going full twin turbo at this time)? Injectors? E85 sensor kit? what else?

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- Jeff
Drift Z: 2010 370z, TopGun Rotrex Supercharger, ID 1300cc Injectors, FI Long Tube Headers, GReddy RS-Race Single Exit, Setrab PS & Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Coilovers, CJM S1.SE Fuel System, Walbro 525 pump with the CJM Billet Fuel Hat, OS Giken Superlock 1.5

redondoaveb

You got your answer in posts #2 and 3. You need injectors. Post #2- Bythabay (Eugene) is a master Ecutek tuner. Contact him, he can tune it for you without the need of the ethanol sensor.

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JARblue

lol you'll read replies by internet trolls on who knows what site, but you won't read legitimate responses in your own Z forum thread?

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JeffP-Z

What the hell are you talking about? I asked and all the post up to the were about how I changed this or that and I am running fine. Not a single response given was remotely good until the first guy said on hell no. You need to learn to read JARblue. I screwed up by assuming that no negative responses to a straight up question were a green light and I was woefully wrong. I learned my lesson. But don't talk trash to me like you had some good answer I didn't respond to. You are no better than a troll right now.

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- Jeff
Drift Z: 2010 370z, TopGun Rotrex Supercharger, ID 1300cc Injectors, FI Long Tube Headers, GReddy RS-Race Single Exit, Setrab PS & Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Coilovers, CJM S1.SE Fuel System, Walbro 525 pump with the CJM Billet Fuel Hat, OS Giken Superlock 1.5

JeffP-Z

Now does anyone have any good advice on how to drain the tank? I have been able to siphon it to about 50% but the anti-siphon device is now getting in the way of making much progress. Any good advice on this subject is greatly appreciated.

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- Jeff
Drift Z: 2010 370z, TopGun Rotrex Supercharger, ID 1300cc Injectors, FI Long Tube Headers, GReddy RS-Race Single Exit, Setrab PS & Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Coilovers, CJM S1.SE Fuel System, Walbro 525 pump with the CJM Billet Fuel Hat, OS Giken Superlock 1.5

Rusty

The tank is saddle shaped on the bottom for driveshaft clearance. You won't get all of the fuel out unless you open up both sides. To open up the top of the tank. You have to in behind the seats. Don't know if you want to do this or not.

Thinking of another way. Behind the right seat is the fuel pump. You might be able to disconnect the fuel line and put a hose on the end of the fitting. Once you do this. You can turn the key on, and let the fuel pump do the work.

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JeffP-Z

Thanks. Great advice!

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- Jeff
Drift Z: 2010 370z, TopGun Rotrex Supercharger, ID 1300cc Injectors, FI Long Tube Headers, GReddy RS-Race Single Exit, Setrab PS & Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Coilovers, CJM S1.SE Fuel System, Walbro 525 pump with the CJM Billet Fuel Hat, OS Giken Superlock 1.5

cv129

Entitlement is real

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JeffP-Z

Great advice for sure Rusty! Worked like a charm. I am already empty. 45 mins vs 3 hours of manual pumping...You rock!

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- Jeff
Drift Z: 2010 370z, TopGun Rotrex Supercharger, ID 1300cc Injectors, FI Long Tube Headers, GReddy RS-Race Single Exit, Setrab PS & Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Coilovers, CJM S1.SE Fuel System, Walbro 525 pump with the CJM Billet Fuel Hat, OS Giken Superlock 1.5

Rusty

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JeffP-Z

So regarding injector sizing. I see lots of different sizes on injectors being referenced in this thread alone. Is there a right or wrong size to increase to from stock? If I were to change to 1000cc or 1500cc injectors would that cause a problem on pump gas (93)? Ultimately I would like to be able to run E85 for track days or performance and 93 for general driving. I have already been tuned on 93 for the setup I currently have, but I am about to install the Berk test pipes this weekend, which I assume will require additional tuning and so I would like to get 2 maps done when I have it retuned. That being said, I know I will need to go get some injectors then and I am trying to learn more about the appropriate sizing for now and possibly future expansion. Down the road I will eventually be installing Twin Turbos (Most likely the AAM kit from what Houston Z aka SZRPro is recommending) and want to make sure that I am not wasting my money now and have to purchase different injectors down the line. My apologies if I am showing my ignorance of the subject but I come from an older era where I worked on Chevy 350s and Holley carbs type setups...this is the first fuel injected car I have ever tried to work on.

Also what advantage does the lex fuel kit from SpecialtyZ give you if its not needed as was earlier suggested...Injectors and a tune on e85 if read correctly.

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- Jeff
Drift Z: 2010 370z, TopGun Rotrex Supercharger, ID 1300cc Injectors, FI Long Tube Headers, GReddy RS-Race Single Exit, Setrab PS & Oil Cooler, BC Racing BR Coilovers, CJM S1.SE Fuel System, Walbro 525 pump with the CJM Billet Fuel Hat, OS Giken Superlock 1.5

Rusty

I would stay away from the AAM turbo kit. People on here have had issues with the kit. Where the turbo's are located at. They don't drain oil very well. Best bet would be going with either FI or BP turbo kits.

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JLarson

Just a couple notes, because there isn't a single 'correct' answer to your question here.

-On an NA car, you can run GT-R injectors for E85. That's your cheapest immediate option.
-On a boosted car, with 93 octane, you already need substantially larger injectors. I'm running 750cc @ ~500whp, using about 80% of capacity.
-If I were running E85, I'd need to increase size substantially, probably 1300s or 1700s.
-If that's where you're heading, you'll also need a bigger fuel pump or fuel pumps to provide appropriate flow.

You'll absolutely need a tune once you go to larger injectors. Trust me when I say that your car will not work with incorrect fuel scaling

Edit: +1 on Rusty's comment about the AAM twin turbo kit. Do not go for that one. If you want twins, go Fast Intentions. If you'd consider a large twin scroll turbo, go BP.

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