Dreaded Valve Cover Oil Leak, Looking For Advice
 

Hey guys and gals....
So my 2011 has 70K. For some time now the oil has been leaking oil from a valve cover gasket...now it is happening from both. I have done some research and apparently this is a common problem. I am looking to replace the gaskets, but before I do, I wanted to get some opinions from any who have encountered this problem. From the videos and other info on the internet, it is possible that the valve cover bolts are just loose, and the gasket is fine. Here are my questions:
1. If you have changed the gasket(s), did you find the originals to be in good shape?
2. Is there significantly more labor in removing the valve covers vs. accessing the cover bolts and just tightening?

My thoughts are to try to tighten/torque the bolts before changing the gaskets.

Any input would be welcome, thanks!

It can't hurt. It may be an easy fix.

Clean everything up around the valve covers. Retighten the bolts. If you find that none of the bolting is loose. Good chance that you will have to change the gaskets. If you find a couple of the bolts loose. You may get lucky and stop the leak. Only time will tell with this.

It's not just removing the valve covers. To change the gaskets you need to pull off everything in front of the motor. Then remove the front timing chain cover. Shop labor on that is around 1k and I can gaurangoddamntee you that the shop will screw up something.

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Be very carful not to over tighten the valve cover bolts.
They are a stepped collar design (see link below) and can snap, leaving the threaded portion in the head.

Also, tightening them a little more will not increase the clamping force between the valve cover and cylinder head.
If it is leaking, the rubber gasket has shrunk and needs to be replaced.

https://conceptzperformance.com/niss...1a_p_25546.php

Good luck with whatever you decide to do :)

The OP is talking about valve cover gaskets, not the rear timing cover oil galley gaskets.

It is legit not possible to torque all the valve cover fasteners down without removing the radiator. So the same problems still remain.

:iagree:

With these bolts. Once tight, that's it. If OP doesn't find any loose bolts. Then the gasket has to be replaced.

I don't think we are talking about the same part.

To replace the valve cover gaskets, you don't need to touch the rad.
You will need to remove the intake boots, upper intake plenum and ignition coils.
Then loosen the bolts that hold on the valve cover and gently pry it off.

To my knowledge, accessing the bolts and removing the covers shouldn’t be much difference in labor costs. Also, check your spark plugs before you do this. If they are oily you should also replace the entire covers along with the gaskets, as the spark plug seals are inherent with the whole valve cover assembly. Good luck..

it is easy to fix and it is not necessary to take the original in good condition. You can whack an analog, which will be quality no worse.

There are new valve covers you can buy for the VQ engine that have serviceable spark plug tube seals, which can be purchased separately :twocents:

https://www.z1motorsports.com/cylind...iABEgKn1_D_BwE

The more you know!

:icon14:

Thanks guys, I have decided to replace the gaskets to include the spark plug well seals and the spark plugs themselves. I have found a local guy who I trust that will do it for less than half the stealership price is 1K